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Thread: 'B' Section Link Belts
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16th Mar 2018, 09:21 PM #16Most Valued Member
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16th Mar 2018, 10:47 PM #17China
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If it were my machine rather than scrape part of it away because I did not want to do the job properly, I would bite the bullet and do the job correctly the belt will last for years most likely
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16th Mar 2018, 11:02 PM #18Golden Member
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Thanks for all the responses,
onanonanon, the lathe is a LANTAINE LAM 350H, not a bad idea cutting a slot, the badge would probably cover it up when I'm done.
bollie7, I decided to go with a link belt for two reasons, the first being the simplicity of replacement and the second to reduce vibrations I've been having (I got it half right!)
Zsteve, That's what I'm currently doing but I've noticed some fraying of the link belt material with repeated connecting/disconnecting but this is the easiest solution to the problem, I might just have to replace links every now and then.
Cheers.
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17th Mar 2018, 01:29 PM #19Golden Member
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ok, yes, forgot about speed change.....
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17th Mar 2018, 06:51 PM #20Banned
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I once had an AL-300, the inside of the headstock was pretty well identical to yours. I moved around a lot so pulled it down quite a bit. Never ever had to replace a belt they lasted forever. Not a quick job pulling the headstock apart but I reckon it's worthwhile, you'll probably never need to do it again. From memory the only problem was getting the gears and spacers of the main shaft, very tight. I think most everything else was pretty easy.
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17th Mar 2018, 08:20 PM #21Most Valued Member
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Mine is a McMillan which is a rebadged Lantaine- looks the same as yours in the head except I think mine is painted white
When I did mine (at least 10 years ago) at first I thought I would be smart and use some Redthane round belt so that I wouldn't have to pull the spindle out. Previously we had used Redthane on a couple of jobs at work with good results. So I bought some 1/2 Redthane and a joiner and fitted it up. Turned out to be a total waste of time and money in this application as the belt was just too "stretchy". So then I pulled the spindle out and fitted a new V belt. Have not had any problems since.
re the vibrations you have had. Maybe the old belt wasnt a particularly good quality belt or maybe you have a pulley (or two) that are not balanced very well.
Hope you get it sorted out ok
Peter
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18th Mar 2018, 10:34 AM #22Golden Member
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I also have a Taiwan lathe, mine is rebadged as Heerless, the supplied user manual is actually for a Lam 350. My belt was starting to fray so I decided to change to a link type belt as I had also heard that they ran smoother and ended up using a power twist type which has no rivets, as I also have a VFD I almost never need to change speeds using the pulleys, and the one time I did but probably did not need to there was no problem there is plenty of room between the casting and pulley. I have noticed a large reduction in vibration now that I'm using a linked belt, my theory on this is that original belt in addition to being quite stiff had over the years stretched unevenly (it was over 20yrs old) which produced a harmonic vibration at certain spindle speeds, for me the vfd and link belt have been well worth it.
Perhaps now is the time to fit a vfd and 3 ph motor, considering the complexity of them I did not find the cost of the motor or vfd over the top - the pulley however was another matter, nearly the same price as the vfd for a 2 step cast iron pulley to fit a 24mm motor shaft. I ended up using a variable pitch pulley I found in my junk box, bored it out to 24mm and adjusted it out to fit a B section belt, I no longer have the ability to change speeds at the motor but with the vfd this is no longer needed, it was a total pain to do any way as you may have found out your self.
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