Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 36
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    So there were no problems getting the okay through the owner for the change.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kwijibo99 View Post
    Hi Michael,
    As Ben suggested, I'd use masonite, it's cheaper than ply, stuff doesn't imbed in it easily and the smooth side is very easy to sweep. We used to use it all the time to protect the floor in telephone exchanges back when they were polished so you could see your face in them. We just made sure the floor was swept clean before putting it down then gaffer taped the joints and edges so nothing could get underneath.
    Granted this was on vinyl tiles not polished timber but it worked very well.

    On another note, I don't know if you are still looking for a small mill but this is in an upcoming auction in Melbourne.

    DSCN6080
    DSCN6081

    I don't recognise the particular machine but it looks pretty nice. Probably need more than two blokes to lift it though.
    Cheers,
    Greg.
    Anymore info on this Mill?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    ... One issue that you would need to consider however you do it is door clearance.
    I was not thinking of doing the whole room, just a portion against the opposite side for just that reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    ... but I do know that a lot of houses built in Tasmania have hardwood floors straight on the joists and no underlay at all. It all depends on how old the house is and what the floor construction is. For all we know it could be concrete with 12mm or 16mm overlay flooring glued to it, or it could be 19mm T&G hardwood nailed to joists with an air space to the dirt.
    The house is relatively old and I suspect it's joists over dirt.

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    So there were no problems getting the okay through the owner for the change.
    This was the agent's suggestion (but who has now moved on). I have a number of issues to discuss with the new agent but this will be on the list. As others can attest, I usually run a ridiculously clean workshop, so provided I can protect the immediate floor (builder's ply for example), I don't think there should be a major issue.

    A couple of people have mentioned masonite. I'd prefer to avoid that if possible as it is hard and smooth and I've slipped on it before.

    Michael

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default Some photos

    Some photos -
    First the rumpus room

    IMG_0220.JPG
    These are some of the 'workshop'
    IMG_0226.JPG IMG_0225.JPG IMG_0224.JPG IMG_0223.JPG IMG_0222.JPG IMG_0221.JPG
    Michael

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    About the middle of next May, you are *not* going to enjoy working in that 'workshop'.......

    Think about heating & insulation. Think about it now, before you need it.

    When I built this house I put one of my lathes and one of my mills in the back room of the house so I could work in comfort during the winter. As it turned out I very rarely did that for various reasons but the idea is still good. In fact the Chipmaster lathe is still there though I did move the mill.

    PDW

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Oatley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    257

    Default

    Good to see your getting setup well.
    I think the lino flooring is a good idea as well, it relatively cheap and you can then place the plywood on top.
    You better have a good backup plan when the Agent wants to do a house inspection, pop a few flowers in the machines here and there and call them modern industrial art.

    Keith_W.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    How about a false wall? Given the many things missing from the inspection report, they probably would not notice if half the room was missing.

    Michael

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    If I were in that situation I think personally I'd be going for floating floor underlay myself. It's specifically designed just for that purpose, and I think with the lightweight machines you're considering the compliance wouldn't be an issue. I'd then look for the cheapest floating floor I could possibly find, even if you were using ones that were completely mismatched, and ask the agent if he minded you laying a floating floor down over the existing floor to be removed when you left and leave the existing floor as it was. Take the door off the hinges so you don't have to cut it to suit the floor height, and just run the floor up to, instead of under, the skirting, much like carpet is laid.

    Having said that, I think you would need to be pretty carefully with this to be perfectly honest Michael. Many on the forum know you, and I can personally attest to how well you look after things and your cleanliness. BUT your agent doesn't know you, nor does the landlord. If I were in his/her situation, didn't know the person, and discovered the tenant had installed a "workshop" in one of the rooms of the house I was renting them I'd have a fit! I'd also want the agent's butt for allowing that to happen. I don't know if there are any specific laws about that in the Tenancy Act, but I would think there would be. I've heard all manner of horror stories about tenants rebuilding Harley motorcycles on the carpet of their lounge rooms etc etc etc to want to even entertain the idea for a second and I'd terminate the lease.

    You may find the whole thing much more palatable for everyone concerned if you offered to line the workshop for the owner. You may even be able to strike a deal where they provide the cost of materials, as it would add considerable value to the house over what you photographed. Even if they didn't, it's remarkably cheap to put up some studs, insulation, and Gyprock, and if you could use the existing floor the cost probably wouldn't be dissimilar to any thicker ply you were considering. It probably wouldn't be as comfortable as working under the main roof, but that's the price we pay for living in somebody else's house, and instead of chancing upsetting anyone you're seen as an "ideal" tenant by everyone. When I've been renting in the past I've offered to do some improvements to the property that suited my needs, and it's always been very well received by the owner. Indeed I finished up not having my rent changed for years as I was considered the "perfect" tenant and I finished up in a place that was cheaper than an interest only loan as I saved for my own.

    The other thing to consider is the metal chips stick to your shoes (and you couldn't work in any workshop in socks) and get tracked around. By distancing the workshop from the main living area they get a chance to come off the soles as you walk between the two. However when part of the same area they are just going to "migrate" regardless of how careful you are. Apart from being a PIA, they will damage any polished flooring.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    The other thing to consider is the metal chips stick to your shoes (and you couldn't work in any workshop in socks) and get tracked around. By distancing the workshop from the main living area they get a chance to come off the soles as you walk between the two. However when part of the same area they are just going to "migrate" regardless of how careful you are. Apart from being a PIA, they will damage any polished flooring.
    This. I *NEVER* wear shoes past the door of my house to keep chips etc from the polished timber floor. Even so the odd chip gets by on my overalls etc. Most unpleasant when you step on it later so I'm pretty careful about chip control.

    PDW

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Hi MG,

    I just re-read your first post, are you sure its a varnished wooden floor? In the photo you showed it looks more like modern bamboo/man made type flooring board. If it is, they scratch really easy and you can't just buff or polish it out. I agree with Pete, if someone I didn't know said they were going to put a workshop in the rumpus I'd at least bump up the bond to cover any damage.

    I often wear thongs in my workshop, I regret it every time.

    Ben.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    This. I *NEVER* wear shoes past the door of my house to keep chips etc from the polished timber floor. Even so the odd chip gets by on my overalls etc. Most unpleasant when you step on it later so I'm pretty careful about chip control.

    PDW
    me too...wish I had suggested polished concrete to her instead of parquetry

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Rather than running around after furniture, I finally did some 'making stuff' stuff. Starting from a low base though -
    PC020002.JPG
    The vice is a Dawn 4SP, bought locally for $100. The wooden stand was free and included...
    I tried screwing some braces on with some brass screws (the only size in the length I wanted). Not only did I discover that they are possibly the one item in Bunnings that is brass rather than brass plated steel, but I also discovered that the recommended pilot holes need to be bigger when screwing into jarah. Screw untouched by Makita cordless on the right.
    PC020004.JPG

    Back to bolts next I guess.

    Michael

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    How's the workshop coming along??? Did you end up getting your machines OK???
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Machines are here and I have had them out of the boxes to move them (couriers did not follow instructions on where to leave them). I also have the benches for them ready; the biggest problem at the moment is the letting agency. I've put in a lease termination notice as the place is not to the standard promised and there is no great interest in getting it that way in a timely fashion.

    Some of my favourites are the guttering that was removed about a month ago because it was rusted through in places is yet to been replaced*, the light fittings hanging from the ceiling by their supply wires are still that way after a couple of months and because the drains are open (not sure that is even allowed), occasionally I get slugs appearing in the shower. As for potentially dangerous things like slippery paths and light fittings that trip breakers when you touch them...

    *Most people would measure up and order the bits they need and once they had arrived, remove and replace the same day. The person doing this has the novel approach of remove the old, then discover that the replacement items are not available and will take some weeks to get here.

    Michael

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Do you have another place lined up to move into? If you have, hopefully it'll have a decent shed/area to work in?
    Do you think that putting in the termination notice that will get some action going, to make the place habitable?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Setting up the AL250g
    By Briangoldcoast in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 23rd Jul 2013, 11:19 AM
  2. Setting up a New Mill
    By Oldneweng in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 11th Jun 2013, 10:16 PM
  3. Setting dividers for a PCD
    By Michael G in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 7th Oct 2012, 07:32 PM
  4. Setting up lathe
    By woodhenge in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 7th Jul 2009, 05:34 PM
  5. Setting OXY-LPG Flame?
    By Norm.Mareeba in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 2nd Jul 2006, 09:19 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •