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Thread: Home Made Lathe
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16th Sep 2017, 12:03 PM #61Most Valued Member
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16th Sep 2017, 12:06 PM #62Most Valued Member
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16th Sep 2017, 04:02 PM #63
[QUOTE How have you set the centre height with the 4mm HSS? How do you check if the cutting edge is on centre?
Dean[/QUOTE]
The following works well on my 12 x 36 lathe. It should work ok on yours.
A 150mm long rule-or something like that -straight touched and caught between the point of the HSS and the piece being turned.
When the rule stands perpendicular- by eye- to the base your center height is good . If the top part of the rule kicks in towards the turned part -too much height.
If the top of the rule kicks towards the operator- not enough height.
In your case a shorter straight length of metal might be better as the 150mm rule may be too high for your little lathe. It need not be a rule ,just a thin, short flat ,straight piece of metal an aluminium flat,a short bit of hacksaw blade.or even a box cutter blade-with suitably blunted edge.
It is quick and cheap. It appears though your lathe tool mount is fixed. If so I have no idea what to do if its too high.
In other lathes without quick change tool posts center height was often arrived at by shimming. There may be other methods that the guys can comment on.
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17th Sep 2017, 12:51 AM #64The lathe is designed to use 4mm tool bit so its set up for that, centering is about .05mm off as it leaves just a tiny bit of material on the job
The micrometer pictured is a Mitutoyo and quite expensive. It should be shock proof but will cost more than your lathe unless you are lucky with a second hand one. Micrometers in general should be handled carefully and not subjected to shock tho.
The 6mm boring bar I mentioned will have a cutting point less than 4mm high. You may even fit an 8mm bar in if the insert point is at the centre point (4mm).
Dean
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17th Sep 2017, 04:15 PM #65Most Valued Member
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Thanks for all the help guys , The last owner of the lathe actually cut off around 1mm of the top of the cutting tool this is why i am left with the small pinical i also noticed the tool was cut on the wrong angle so i cut and shaped the other end and it cut beautiful like a hot knife thru butter hardly and slowing down in rpm it cut so smooth and no pulling
here's another piece i just cut for my nephews motard conversion on his WR450F 2017
also forgot to mention i made a clean cut at 29.15mm i rotated the dial 0.2mm and the next cut measured 28.73mm i also have to hold both axis handles while machining as they are unwinding from the vibration
first run took around 2 hours, second run today to machine the hardest wheel spacer (most time consuming) took 1h 6mins felt like nothing i love this machine
does anyone know why my pictures are not uploading? i had 13 pictures and only 3 uploded, they are smaller than 1mb around 500kb
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17th Sep 2017, 05:26 PM #66Most Valued Member
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I can now see why u guys said to machine the whole first as i am slightly off here's a picture of what the readings are but the VC is all over the place
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17th Sep 2017, 06:16 PM #67Banned
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Looking at the measurements, the work wasn't chucked correctly, so the hole isn't parallel with the work. I'd turn the outer surfaces first, chuck it and then drill.
I'd also check that the hole is uniform in size, ie: the back of the hole is the same size as the front.
When chucking work like that use a dial indicator, the hole should be parallel then.
That's the way I do it, I'll be doing a very similar job tomorrow.
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17th Sep 2017, 07:22 PM #68Most Valued Member
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Mate your spot on i tried to cut it my best but i have 3 saws and a grinder each chop ends up about as good as a grinder!
does anyone know why my two chop saws and my wood working mitre saw chop on a angle as it cuts down? chop saws are 150mm and 284mm
this picture is from using the 150mm chop saw, i have tried cutting super slow to fast and everything in between it will not cut strait hopefully its user error lol
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17th Sep 2017, 07:59 PM #69Banned
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Others will probably disagree but basically its because they are chop saws, assuming you're blades are fibre. Buy a steel blade.
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17th Sep 2017, 09:02 PM #70Most Valued Member
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Yeah one would think its a simple 90 degree cut how could someone stuff that up haha but it's happening on 3 different saws 2 for metal and 1 for wood so that is why i am questioning my self
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17th Sep 2017, 09:10 PM #71
500Kb is too big for uploading pictures. I try to make them around the 100Kb mark.
Aluminium is what is causing the cutting problem. The wheels will be loading up with the ali. Not a good way to cut it. A band saw is better.
Dean
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17th Sep 2017, 09:32 PM #72Most Valued Member
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Thanks ONE, I may try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtXawjSrYeY and try a hand saw
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19th Sep 2017, 03:04 PM #73Most Valued Member
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I plan on remaking that second wheel spacer i made the other day the crooked one, I am ordering the dial caliper and i was wondering how do they work is there a reset button to reset the dial? i am looking at this one on ebay New Dial Caliper 150mm 6inch Vernier Caliper 4Way Gauge Micrometer 0.1mm | eBay
also looking at purchasing Precision Rails Dial Test Indicator Gauge Scale with Magnetic Base Holder Stand | eBay
and HSS 4mm x 4mm x 200mm Square Lathe Tool Bit Mill Boring Cutter | eBay
i have sharpen my HSS tooling twice now and the second time it cut so smooth so nice and gentle i actually feel confident in sharpening those blank pieces
i need someone to look over the first two ebay links and tell me if they are ok to use, i also was going to purchase the same lathe machine but the 60watt model (mine is 24watt model) because the 60w model can cut all metals so the add states but now i am quiet happy with my micro lathe i think i will order a new motor and a bunch of belts i cannot really see anything else going wrong with the machine
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19th Sep 2017, 03:35 PM #74Most Valued Member
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This video should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7-6ALptqQQ
I don't think a plastic dial calliper is going to be very accurate. I've never owned one though, so others may disagree. I think the one you linked would be OK for woodwork, but not for metalwork.Chris
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19th Sep 2017, 04:26 PM #75Most Valued Member
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Thanks Jack That was helpful i never knew the dial rotated to zero it out
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