Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 105

Thread: Home Made Lathe

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Why I asked about the about the HSS cutting tool dimension is that they are quite cheap on ebay and if you are only machining aluminium or plastics a Chinese made HSS may well do the job.

    4MM X 4MM X 200MM LONG BLANK LATHE HSS SQUARE TOOL BIT | eBay

    Note that it is US $ but I am sure something could be found on Ebay au

    It could be cut to length with an angle grinder thin cutter blade. you may get 4 or 5 from a 200mmm length.

    Grahame
    Th
    That's pretty cheap is it ok to sharpen those HSS tool bit's with a flap disc? this is how i sharpen the one in my lathe

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    These can be bought in digital too. The calipers can also be bought in dial type and vernier type which are more reliable.

    Attachment 369987
    Attachment 369988
    Attachment 369989

    A micrometer is essential for accurate readings, but a caliper is handy for quick readings while you are getting to near final size.

    If you need to do any boring, insert type boring bars can be bought down to 6mm diam.

    How have you set the centre height with the 4mm HSS? How do you check if the cutting edge is on centre?

    Dean
    I like the digital micrometer but they are not cheap, are they shock proof? The lathe is designed to use 4mm tool bit so its set up for that, centering is about .05mm off as it leaves just a tiny bit of material on the job

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    [QUOTE How have you set the centre height with the 4mm HSS? How do you check if the cutting edge is on centre?

    Dean[/QUOTE]

    The following works well on my 12 x 36 lathe. It should work ok on yours.

    A 150mm long rule-or something like that -straight touched and caught between the point of the HSS and the piece being turned.

    When the rule stands perpendicular- by eye- to the base your center height is good . If the top part of the rule kicks in towards the turned part -too much height.
    If the top of the rule kicks towards the operator- not enough height.

    In your case a shorter straight length of metal might be better as the 150mm rule may be too high for your little lathe. It need not be a rule ,just a thin, short flat ,straight piece of metal an aluminium flat,a short bit of hacksaw blade.or even a box cutter blade-with suitably blunted edge.

    It is quick and cheap. It appears though your lathe tool mount is fixed. If so I have no idea what to do if its too high.
    In other lathes without quick change tool posts center height was often arrived at by shimming. There may be other methods that the guys can comment on.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    The lathe is designed to use 4mm tool bit so its set up for that, centering is about .05mm off as it leaves just a tiny bit of material on the job
    Ok. sounds like it is slightly low. You could use a thin shim (0.05mm) under the tool to raise it. It should be set so it does not leave a pip behind in the centre. You could use thicker HSS and grind the top to lower the cutting edge down to 4mm high. A flap disk will work for sharpening. You will know yourself if you are able to produce the right shape. You don't want to round off the top (cutting) edge of course. A grinder or disk sander will be better as they will have a rest which will help with control of the tool while grinding the shape.

    The micrometer pictured is a Mitutoyo and quite expensive. It should be shock proof but will cost more than your lathe unless you are lucky with a second hand one. Micrometers in general should be handled carefully and not subjected to shock tho.

    The 6mm boring bar I mentioned will have a cutting point less than 4mm high. You may even fit an 8mm bar in if the insert point is at the centre point (4mm).

    Dean

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Thanks for all the help guys , The last owner of the lathe actually cut off around 1mm of the top of the cutting tool this is why i am left with the small pinical i also noticed the tool was cut on the wrong angle so i cut and shaped the other end and it cut beautiful like a hot knife thru butter hardly and slowing down in rpm it cut so smooth and no pulling

    here's another piece i just cut for my nephews motard conversion on his WR450F 2017

    also forgot to mention i made a clean cut at 29.15mm i rotated the dial 0.2mm and the next cut measured 28.73mm i also have to hold both axis handles while machining as they are unwinding from the vibration

    first run took around 2 hours, second run today to machine the hardest wheel spacer (most time consuming) took 1h 6mins felt like nothing i love this machine

    does anyone know why my pictures are not uploading? i had 13 pictures and only 3 uploded, they are smaller than 1mb around 500kb
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    I can now see why u guys said to machine the whole first as i am slightly off here's a picture of what the readings are but the VC is all over the place
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Age
    73
    Posts
    459

    Default

    Looking at the measurements, the work wasn't chucked correctly, so the hole isn't parallel with the work. I'd turn the outer surfaces first, chuck it and then drill.

    I'd also check that the hole is uniform in size, ie: the back of the hole is the same size as the front.

    When chucking work like that use a dial indicator, the hole should be parallel then.

    That's the way I do it, I'll be doing a very similar job tomorrow.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    Looking at the measurements, the work wasn't chucked correctly, so the hole isn't parallel with the work. I'd turn the outer surfaces first, chuck it and then drill.

    I'd also check that the hole is uniform in size, ie: the back of the hole is the same size as the front.

    When chucking work like that use a dial indicator, the hole should be parallel then.

    That's the way I do it, I'll be doing a very similar job tomorrow.
    Mate your spot on i tried to cut it my best but i have 3 saws and a grinder each chop ends up about as good as a grinder!

    does anyone know why my two chop saws and my wood working mitre saw chop on a angle as it cuts down? chop saws are 150mm and 284mm

    this picture is from using the 150mm chop saw, i have tried cutting super slow to fast and everything in between it will not cut strait hopefully its user error lol
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Age
    73
    Posts
    459

    Default

    Others will probably disagree but basically its because they are chop saws, assuming you're blades are fibre. Buy a steel blade.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Yeah one would think its a simple 90 degree cut how could someone stuff that up haha but it's happening on 3 different saws 2 for metal and 1 for wood so that is why i am questioning my self

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    500Kb is too big for uploading pictures. I try to make them around the 100Kb mark.

    Aluminium is what is causing the cutting problem. The wheels will be loading up with the ali. Not a good way to cut it. A band saw is better.

    Dean

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Thanks ONE, I may try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtXawjSrYeY and try a hand saw

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    I plan on remaking that second wheel spacer i made the other day the crooked one, I am ordering the dial caliper and i was wondering how do they work is there a reset button to reset the dial? i am looking at this one on ebay New Dial Caliper 150mm 6inch Vernier Caliper 4Way Gauge Micrometer 0.1mm | eBay

    also looking at purchasing Precision Rails Dial Test Indicator Gauge Scale with Magnetic Base Holder Stand | eBay

    and HSS 4mm x 4mm x 200mm Square Lathe Tool Bit Mill Boring Cutter | eBay

    i have sharpen my HSS tooling twice now and the second time it cut so smooth so nice and gentle i actually feel confident in sharpening those blank pieces

    i need someone to look over the first two ebay links and tell me if they are ok to use, i also was going to purchase the same lathe machine but the 60watt model (mine is 24watt model) because the 60w model can cut all metals so the add states but now i am quiet happy with my micro lathe i think i will order a new motor and a bunch of belts i cannot really see anything else going wrong with the machine

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I am ordering the dial caliper and i was wondering how do they work is there a reset button to reset the dial?
    This video should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7-6ALptqQQ

    I don't think a plastic dial calliper is going to be very accurate. I've never owned one though, so others may disagree. I think the one you linked would be OK for woodwork, but not for metalwork.
    Chris

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Thanks Jack That was helpful i never knew the dial rotated to zero it out

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Another home made lathe
    By nadroj in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 28th Apr 2013, 11:48 AM
  2. Home made Lathe
    By simonl in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 26th Apr 2013, 08:16 PM
  3. Lathe Taper Attachment Home Made.
    By aametalmaster in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 2nd Jan 2012, 10:46 AM
  4. Impressive home made lathe
    By racer123 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 15th Oct 2011, 03:26 PM
  5. [repost] Home Made Lathe - Can anyone turn a headstock spindle for me?
    By Skew ChiDAMN!! in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 26th Aug 2007, 04:04 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •