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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NSW
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    145

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    Here's some pics. It would appear that there is no way to make adjustments to the blade vertically, as the whole thing is fixed in place.

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    52
    Posts
    4,234

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    So what you might have to do is undo the hinge for the saw from the base and put in some thin sheet metal on one side to act as shim to square it up.

    Michael

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    57
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    3,752

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    Other than applying a large impact device it is not worth the time and effort to try and make it more accurate. Best thing is use some packing to bring the work up level with the wheel.

    This can be pretty annoying I know. I had a similar issue with a sliding compound mitre saw. It had a centre rotating table and side tables like they all do now. One side table was 1.4mm higher than the centre and the other one was 0.7mm higher. Trying to cut a plain square piece of wood close to the end was a joke. I tried to find a saw that was flat all the way across. I couldn't despite the fact that I looked at some of the most expensive saws available. The DeWalt was hopeless. The best I found was a baby Ryobi, but it was still not great and way too small for my needs. Makita had a single table unit for $1k at the time, but I did not have the money. They have now stopped making these.

    Dean

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    Hi Garfield,

    K arp! thats a long way out.

    What brand is that saw ?

    I reckon Dean has the answer. Even a another base plate, say a flat bit of 6mm laid over the original and adjusted square to the friction blade.
    The 6mm would be thick enough to take counter sunk head screws to hold it down.

    Grahame

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Yeah, I'm pretty gutted that it is out that much and not adjustable in any way from the manufacturer.

    It is a Ryobi cut off saw Grahame, about 3 - 4 years old.

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    45
    Posts
    769

    Default

    Yep the base on those things flex more than most mirror loving body builders!
    ....................................................................

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,713

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    Garfield

    Never give in and never give up mate!

    I googled some pics of the saw and though they are not close up pics it seems as though the pivot points are just holes drilled in what amounts to be a pair of vertical flat bars.

    If this is so, some surgery with a angle grinder cut off wheel and then a welder may provide the adjustment needed.

    Of course you would have to strip the saw down to the deck and take careful measurements, but I have the feeling a cutting wheel kerf thickness may bring it very close.

    Test cuts could be done on the tacks alone. I am going to bunnings on Wednesday and will have a close look at a Ryobi chopsaw if they have one.

    I believe it is possible.

    Grahame

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Thanks Grahame.

    I have taken some pics, if they aren't that great I can take some tomorrow arvo in daylight if I can get away from work on time.

    I don't think they've really changed the design on the new one, only just the colour I think.

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    52
    Posts
    4,234

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    I agree with Grahame - I think that can be modified. Pity it's not bolt on but you can't have everything. A couple of cuts with an angle grinder cut off wheel or even a hacksaw and it should be able to be fixed.

    Michael

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,713

    Default

    Hi Garfield,
    From what I can see from your photos, the pivot block looks tacked and immovable from the base.

    It is a fraction harder but be of stout heart and steady hand and you will succeed.

    Basically just after taking careful measurements you can work out which side needs dropping and then just strip the head off
    clean the area to be cut, mark it and cut.

    I note that the open box assembly is tacked so it may take 2 cuts,1 vertical and 1 horizontal.If you measure off the deck to the holes they should be the same measurement .If not ,there's your error.

    If the holes are the same it is likely the error is in the boring(or casting ) of the holes in the head assembly. However the modification to the box tacked to the frame will achieve what you want it to.

    I'm off to clean and paint my saw.

    As mine is stripped for a repaint I took some pics.Pivot assmbly tacked to deck.jpgPivot frame attached by tubular bushes.jpgsample of where to cut.jpg

    Cheers and good luck

    Grahame

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Thanks heaps for that Grahame, really appreciate it mate.

    I've been flat out all week at work and working tomorrow (Saturday) so hopefully get a crack at it Sunday and I'll let you know how I go

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

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