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Thread: Cutting accurate angles in RHS
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16th Jun 2017, 08:21 PM #31Most Valued Member
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I wouldn't try to totally seal the RHS, as any water that WILL get in, can't get out easily. It will eventually leak out, causing the rust. I'd fabricate it with open ends and drill 12 mm holes on both ends at the lowest points, when you come back from using the trailer, grab the hose and rinse out the water/salts that's left in there.
Even if you get it galvanized, I'd still rinse it out though.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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16th Jun 2017, 10:32 PM #32
Some heavy gauge angle iron would fix that problem Kryn
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17th Jun 2017, 09:01 AM #33
Angle section would do the trick. I would estimate the dimension something along the lines of the same height by width dimension and double the wall thickness.Say if the box section was 45mm square x 3mm the angle would be
45 x45 x 6mm.
Have you tried cutting angle other than square cutting in a friction saw? Take a 45 degree cut for instance. The saw tends to grab one toe and pivot the angle section on the other toe. Ask me how I know.
During the pivoting moment the saw kerf is no longer parallel with the friction cutting wheel. No injury or damage,but definitely dirty undies time.
Not nice when theres cut pressure and a high revving friction wheel. A precisely cut spacer block is required between the inner vertical leg of the AG and the vertical vice jaw.
Grahame
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17th Jun 2017, 11:56 AM #34A precisely cut spacer block is required between the inner vertical leg of the AG and the vertical vice jaw.
I put a bit of RHS on the inside of the angle and use that to clamp it against the fixed vice jaw, if you could call that jaw "fixed". To cut the other angle turn the angle over so it is sitting on top of the RHS. "Precisely cut" Yeah. When you cut the first bit of angle the RHS gets cut to the same angle. RHS has a suitable radius on the corners.
Dean
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17th Jun 2017, 02:42 PM #35
Dean,
I thought I had written AI < A precisely cut spacer block is required between the inner vertical leg of the AI (meaning Angle Iron) against the vertical vice jaw.
The vice being fixed and locked down at that point in time although it is adjustable for angle.
My apologies as the spell checker has a mind of its own and often tries to make me look silly.
I can manage that perfectly well on my own
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17th Jun 2017, 07:50 PM #36I can manage that perfectly well on my own
I presumed that was what you meant. All good then.
Dean
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17th Jun 2017, 08:30 PM #37Tool addict
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I always noted a deflection of the disc in my makita drop saw, holding up the guard and watching it square on and you could see it clearly forming that angle.
If it's a consistent angle that it deflects to, maybe stick some shims under the piece to be cut to slightly raise it up to counter that angle. I never thought of trying that before, and I'm in the bandsaw camp too nowadays
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17th Jun 2017, 08:37 PM #38
I know they'd wear away a lot quicker, but its like they almost need thinner blades.
Pulled my one out of the dark corner of my shed today, didn't get a chance to set it up and cut anything, but have my speed square all ready to have a look at how it all lines up tomorrow and make a few cuts to check with my set square straight after.... Fingers crossed I'll get some decent cuts.
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18th Jun 2017, 08:34 PM #39Banned
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These days, Im a firm believer in the right tool in the right place. The right place for a drop saw is the bin. Of course if you have very deep pockets and very short arms like me that's not always a good idea. BTW, a smaller diameter wheel will flex less.
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18th Jun 2017, 08:57 PM #40Golden Member
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- Aug 2012
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- Australia
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I gave away my drop saw shortly after the arrival of a bandsaw. That being said, as good as the bandsaw is, if I want something accurate I use a machine designed for accuracy...
IMG_2996.jpg IMG_3014.jpg IMG_3030.jpg
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18th Jun 2017, 10:44 PM #41
I am hanging on to my drop saw because it can be clamped to a large heavy frame in order to cut it. A bit hard to do this with the bandsaw. I have long had plans to enlarge my trailer. I would remove the floor which will be replaced and use the drop saw to cut the cross members so I can extend them. Maybe, one day.
Dean
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18th Jun 2017, 11:18 PM #42
Its all very good if your metal cutting tools extend to a bandsaw or yet even better, a cold saw but not everyone is in that fortunate position.
Some members on this forum must make do with what they have. Because some people are unable get their own friction saw to cut squarely, does not mean others cannot.
Confucius say: Man who say it cannot be done, should not interrupt man doing it.
We are talking box section frames here not space shuttle wings. The shed police are not coming around to inspect the work. In this case it is a boat trailer component.
If you can help the OP get his friction saw to cut square enough to do the job - that is wonderful, feel free to offer him some positive support and experience, because that is the tool that he has.
Garfield, I found that that I need a nearly full size wheel to keep the surface speed up.When the revs drop off the tendency is to push harder and then the wheel starts to deflect. The wheel diameter I cut the samples with would be around 11 or 12" diameter.Its a Flexovit blade. Not sure how thick but will check label tomorrow.
Stick with what ever you have on at the moment until it is proven to deflect,but avoid buying the thin ones.
Grahame
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19th Jun 2017, 10:19 AM #43Diamond Member
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- Jun 2010
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I had a cheap GMC abrasive chop saw and then a similarly cheap orange Makita, although when I say "cheap" there's so little in these machines that it's hard to know where you'd spend money to make an expensive one. They always cut pretty damn square, they just made a row, produced a lot of dust and sparks and left a hell of a burr on the cut. Once the burr was taken care of I had perfectly serviceable cuts, and given it was getting welded, any gaps just meant better penetration
In the OP's case, I wouldn't worry so much about join fitup, rather I'd make sure the pieces are tightly clamped in the correct position and fill any gaps with weld.
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19th Jun 2017, 10:53 AM #44In the OP's case, I wouldn't worry so much about join fitup, rather I'd make sure the pieces are tightly clamped in the correct position and fill any gaps with weld.
Dean
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19th Jun 2017, 06:45 PM #45
Hi all, got the cut off saw out today and cut a couple of pieces colorbond post, I understand that some 50x50 RHS would have been better but just went with what I had.
Anyhow I moved the fence and aligned 90 degrees using my quick square. I checked that the blade was 90 degrees vertically to the base and found that it isn't. I'll attach a couple of pics and hopefully it shows up, but the bottom of the square is touching the blade, while the top moves out.
I cut a couple of pieces and they are actually fairly pretty much square but you can spot with the set square that because the blade isn't cutting square vertically it is out, and I imagine the more bigger the RHS area the more it will really show up.
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