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Thread: Cheap saw 6*4

  1. #1
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    Default Cheap saw 6*4

    Hi I've been thinking about getting one of these things for a while.
    The other day I was able to pick one up cheap..

    I've read a bit here about these saws so when I tried it out and it wasn't cutting straight. I went to my local saw blade manufacturer .Mc driven saws.
    22 bucks later and I have a new blade.
    After fitting it and a bit of messing around. I've been chopping stuff up non stop.
    The new blade did wonders



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  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Good one.
    It looks identical to mine.
    If you look around these forums you'll see they are great candidates for many small improvements.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Good one.
    It looks identical to mine.
    If you look around these forums you'll see they are great candidates for many small improvements.
    Yah bob I've seen that.


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  4. #4
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    Aaron, the biggest improvement you can make is to get several different pitch blades - and get into the habit of changing blades quickly for different jobs.
    One of the blades should be a bimetal 4 or 5 tpi. Yep, you read right. It will slice through large sections at amazing speed. I'm sure it has to do with chip clearance. The other really good blade tip is to go for variable pitch blades. 10-14tpi, 12-18tpi are my favourites. More forgiving on thinner sections than a single pitch blade.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #5
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    Hi joe. Good tip the blades I brought are bi-metal ones I think around 16 tpi . I'll grab a 5 tpi next week. The blades seem chesp so I look forward to trying out a few different ones

  6. #6
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    Hi Azzrock, you will wonder why you waited so long to buy one of these saws after a few jobs i bought mine over 20 years ago for $25 and it was about 20yo then.
    As for blades i have bought both carbon and bi-metal 14tpi and 18tpi but usually buy carbon because they are [and me] cheaper and you can keep a couple of spares, i have bought blades from the local saw doctor but they don't get the teeth perfect around the weld and soon your missing more teeth, i can get Starrett locally so thats all i buy now.
    I have ruined blades cutting sheet metal in the vice because of chatter so i only cut sheet freehand now and also wasted a few blades on harder steel but coolant as mentioned above might help.
    I silver solder broken blades for spares so i don't get caught short half way through a job, i have about 50% success rate with the joins, some last 2 cuts others will do 10.

  7. #7
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    Nice one whitey. I would of never thought about repairing a broken blade.



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  8. #8
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    If you cut a lot of tubing with thin walls I'd use 18 TPI (or more if you can get them) carbon blades. Bimetals tend to drop teeth when cutting thin walled tubing. I've also found Starrett to be the best as far as longevity is concerned.

  9. #9
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    What sort of pricing are you guys getting on your blades?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    What sort of pricing are you guys getting on your blades?
    $22



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  11. #11
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I have the $12 6TPI and 18 TPI carbon bands from H&F, have had these for about 3 years.

    Mostly I use a bimetal 10-14 TPI band and these cost me $32 from a local sharpening service.
    I could have got them a few $ cheaper elsewhere but this place is convenient and gives our mens shed good service so I started directing my business his way

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    Nice one whitey. I would of never thought about repairing a broken blade.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Have a close look at the blade before you bother. The pulley diameters are really way too small for these blades. I've seen a lot of my bi-metallic blades develop stress cracks. Eventually the blade fails but if you look at it, you can see a ton of other cracks that are *going* to fail, and quite soon.

    Costs me $33 a blade locally. I'm down to one spare so it's time to get some more.

    PDW

  13. #13
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    Hi pete. I just thought it was interesting about repairing the blades . I'm not planing on doing it.


    https://www.google.com.au/maps/place...f25b4?hl=en-au

    Here's where I perchused my blades.
    I just order a few more a 24 tpi and a 6-10 tpi both 22 bucks.
    There very convenient to my house.
    Plus pete I received my parcel and am very happy. Thanks
    Azz

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    Hi pete. I just thought it was interesting about repairing the blades . I'm not planing on doing it.


    https://www.google.com.au/maps/place...f25b4?hl=en-au

    Here's where I perchused my blades.
    I just order a few more a 24 tpi and a 6-10 tpi both 22 bucks.
    There very convenient to my house.
    Plus pete I received my parcel and am very happy. Thanks
    Azz
    Cool. Hope it works out for you. I used it quite a lot until I pretty much stopped using my B/port other than a big X-Y drill press. My other machines are 40 taper.

    One of these days I must get the Kaiser boring head back off of a friend I lent it to, before he becomes *too* attached to it....

    PDW

  15. #15
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    It seems to go in ia 1/2 collet.
    I'm going to start a thread . To ask peoples ideas on a set up.

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