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Thread: stud remover
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22nd Mar 2017, 06:26 PM #1
stud remover
This is the stud remover I made. The method I used : heat the studs to a dull red right at the base of the stud, leave for a few minutes to let the heat dissipate a little, then apply your favourite loosener wd40 or whatever. The studs I removed had been there since 1940 and it really was like pulling teeth out . The wedge is made from a square section file . The teeth on the wedge grab onto the stud, as you apply more twisting force , the wedge will grab onto the stud with more force, self locking . I cross drilled a offset hole and hand filed it to a square on one side , this was done so the wedge would fit correctly.
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22nd Mar 2017, 10:09 PM #2
Hi Mike,
Very neat Idea ! I really like that. I've never seen anything like that for removing studs, I remember using a pipe wrench and piece of tube on the handle to shift them. Didn't always work though, some just snapped off right at the base and had to be drilled out.
But that was in my young and stupid days as a car mad youth. If it had an engine, I just had to pull it apart... Just to see how it was put togetherBest Regards:
Baron J.
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22nd Mar 2017, 11:22 PM #3Diamond Member
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G'Day Mike, I'm glad that you have had a win with your stud remover, but even after looking at your photos, I'm not quite getting what your method is. In the second photo, (of the tool), I can see the lower cross drilled hole that you have filed square on one side, and can imagine a tapered square file being tapped into that hole and binding onto the stud. It could then be removed by using a tommy bar in the upper cross drilled hole. The bit I don't get is the helical gash with what looks like the file inserted into it, what am I missing here?
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22nd Mar 2017, 11:26 PM #4Most Valued Member
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Brilliant
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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23rd Mar 2017, 03:03 AM #5
Hi Guys,
I think that Ropetangler's confusion is because the bit of file is shown layed on top of the tool. At first glance it looks like it is in a slot in the side.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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23rd Mar 2017, 09:19 AM #6Diamond Member
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23rd Mar 2017, 10:26 AM #7Home Hobbist
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23rd Mar 2017, 11:17 AM #8
Studs
Can anyone suggest a suitable steel for the new studs ? The tapped holes in the block may be slightly oversize now , this means I may have to make custom studs to suit ? I will apply some anti sieze onto the threads of the new studs .
I was worried that the old studs may have become weakened after the heating with the oxy but they did not twist or snap , the old steel in those studs is good quality !
The only negative with my stud remover is, you have to remove the jammed wedge . I clamped the remover in a vise and tapped out the wedge , it takes a few heavy blows .
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23rd Mar 2017, 11:54 AM #9Home Hobbist
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Being head studs and needing to be torqued down I suggest 4140 with possible case hardening, look at what the originals are or their specification.
You may want to clean up the thread in the block to make sure its good. For the new studs cut them to have a better engagement, something like 90 to 95%.
Here is a link to a good article on thread engagement.
https://www.fastenal.com/en/78/screw-thread-design
Keith_W.
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23rd Mar 2017, 05:30 PM #10"Can anyone suggest a suitable steel for the new studs ? "
Could you just try using similar diameter Gr8 bolts of an approximate (slightly longer) length and trim the length to suit?
Has worked for me.
Just a thought.
Mike
edit - if the bolt heads are visually a no-no, cut them off and thread the ends, after getting the length correct.
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23rd Mar 2017, 06:53 PM #11
I was thinking of 4140 but on one occasion I got caught out buying 4140 . From the particular merchant I went to, it was supplied as black ( annealed ? ) I thought 4140 was normally supplied in a quenched and tempered state ? The grade 8 12mm bolts - sounds like its worth trying .
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