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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Alphen aan den Rijn, Netherlands
    Posts
    208

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    Hi Ralph,
    I will try to look behind the apron of my lathe this afternoon to see if anything is visible without removing the apron from the lathe. I might consider removing it, but that will take a few months, since I am moving shops.
    I will get back on this.

    There is a slip clutch integrated in the feed mechanism ( at least on your lathe. I am not sure of the aprons with only longitudinal feed). The point where it slips can be set inside the bulky lever to engage/ disengage the feed. Details of setting it are given in the manual I sent you. If set to tight the protection is negligible of course
    Newer aprons have a button on the left side that disengages the feed for thread cutting (I don't see it on the pictures of your lathe, so I assume yours doesn't have it). This button works with a stop block, and only when feeding to the left. If no stop is set or when feeding to the right (or if no button is present), the only protection are the fiber gears. And I have seen evidence that the cast mounting for the switch on the right side of the bed breaks before the gears strip.

    I have seen a few lathes with repairs on the apron, but given the number of AI lathes that are in use (in the Netherlands) that can hardly be called a common thing.
    But fiber wheels are still available from different sources, so they are regularly replaced....
    By the way, one sure way to destroy them is switching feed direction with the lever on the headstock while the motor is running!

    I also have most of the original accessories for these lathes, so I can provide pictures and measurements if desired.
    (Am missing the threading dial. If anyone has one laying around.... Hembrug lathe on the way. )

    Cheers,
    Peter

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Alphen aan den Rijn, Netherlands
    Posts
    208

    Default

    I have tried to look behind the apron, but without success. I also checked my pictures of the cleaning of the lathe, but also no luck.
    I have had the apron completely apart, but can't remember any rubber or plastic parts, only cast iron or steel parts. So I would guess the connecting piece is steel.
    If you can wait I will take the apron off the lathe and take pictures and measurements for you. But as I said, it will take some months before I am able to do that.
    Peter

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Thanks for going to all that effort Peter, Dont worry about dismantling it. I think i have just enough idea of the missing parts that I can make them.

    Regards - Ralph

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Big thanks to everyone for the advice and assistance especially michael for broaching this for me, got the missing drive collar nearly finished, after this its just the clutch lockout mechanism and I can put the whole unit back together.

    I have a 2.9 hp 1440rpm motor (big thanks Joe) waiting to go in, and before I jump in and make it, i need a 4-step a-section v bely pulley, dimensions being (measured on the outside lip of the biggest and smallest step OD's) 6.425" at the widest 3.870" at the smallest 2.577 total length, I have stopped in at G&R industrial near my work and they had some that would suit but didnt have anywhere near enough meat to hold a 1.125" bore. Does anyone know a supplier of decent solid v-belt pulleys.

    Regards - Ralph20170307_211913.jpg

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    You might have to go to someone like Capral and buy a chunk of Al. Once you have the V angle ground they are not hard to do.

    Michael

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    There is an engineering and building materials recycler in Bendigo. I go there regularly. I'll check for both pulleys and billets if you like. They have had both at different times. Expect $30 for a 4-step pulley and $60-70 for a suitable 'lump'. Please double-check that the top pulley is A section (1/2" widest width) not B (about 5/8")
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Thanks Joe that would be really good, I need the pulley to either fit, or have enough material to take a 11/8 bore. I do have a decent billet here but at 6" its .500" shy of the needed od, darn. Happy to reimburse you whatever is needed. Warm Regards - Ralph

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    229

    Default

    Hi Ralph
    l have acouple of possible candidates for your step pulley issue.
    The pulley on the left has dimensions of 5.9 " 3.5" and 2.5"
    The pulley on the right has dimensions of 6.1" 2.1" and 2.5"
    Bore on both is 1"image.jpg
    Cheers
    Peter

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Peter's offer might be a good idea.
    I didn't do any good.
    For others information and enlightenment, here is the curent stock of pulleys and aluminium 'lumps' at my local:
    IMG_20170316_132900.jpg IMG_20170316_132918.jpg IMG_20170316_133042.jpg
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

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    I have now finished all the missing parts from the carriage, shown below and replaced all the oil nipples,Getting the grease out took a bit of effort, I ended up making a little attachment for my parts washer and pumping degreaser through everything. Becase im a bit tight the L shaped lever that prevents the half nuts and feeds being engaged simultaneously is made of two parts pinned together.

    20170321_210926.jpg20170321_193706.jpg

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

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    Its been a while since I was on this project, too many distracting new tools. I need to remanufacture the 5/8 - 8 LH acme cross slide nut but i don't have a small enough suitable boring bar, How do people normally accomplish small internal acme nuts, braze hss into a custom bar? Its going to be under some serious force with that big form tool. Are custom ground solid carbide boring bars readily available? i wouldn't want to have to relieve 44mm of a solid carbide bar.

    A tap is obviously an option, but i would be worried about a loose fit on the slightly worn screw. Only $100 from McMaster Carr so thats low enough to experiment i guess.

    In the mean time i split the end off the existing nut, carefully reamed clearance for the caphead shanks. Not a really long term solution but itll get her running for a bit longer. Down to 0.003 backlash from 0.035" or so.
    20170504_224724.jpg20170504_232712.jpg
    20170504_221625.jpg

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Pete F had a nice way of making small (form) boring bars although he might have to find it for you (as I can't).

    I would suggest that if you are making a new nut then you should also make a new screw. Two reasons - firstly it gives you something to fit if you make a new nut and secondly if the nut is worn it is highly likely that the screw is too but it will only be locally - so in one portion of the travel there will be little backlash and in another section considerably more. Frustrating so do the job properly. Compared to cutting a nut, a LH screw is a walk in the park.

    Michael

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

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    Normally I would immediately agree with you Michael, but i got the gear tooth vernier out and the screw is actually pretty darn good, I could see more than 0.0005 between the middle and end (from flank to flank) and its rock hard. The other challenge for me is that the drive gear is hobbed right on it so i would have to cut a new one. As soon as i find a dividing head ill look at remaking, hoping the split nut lasts me that long.

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    1,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    but i got the gear tooth vernier out and the screw is actually pretty darn good, I could see (No?) more than 0.0005 between the middle and end (from flank to flank) and its rock hard.
    It possibly Nitrided as many of the Euro High End Screws were.

    Just between you, me, and the gate post. 0.0005" -2 1/2 micronish, isn't the value you get off a gear tooth vernier. Just saying? By rights you have to measure that over rollers with a real Mic.

    Having said that, some of those screws are glass hard, and will wear the nut

    Regards Phil.

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Good point Phil, unfortunately i dont have any wires, i do have 1/8 drill blanks which are a good fit, ie dont bottom out, ill give that a go and see if it corroborates my other measurement. I only have a set of hardness files and using those its somewhere between 50-55rc.

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