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  1. #1
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    Default retrofit insulation tin shed

    I have just googled retrofit insulation steel shed.

    Seems to be lots of options available

    Anybody done this recently ? Any tips, traps, recommended products or websites for a one man diy job ?

    On a hot day the dark green roof absorbs heat and turns into a radiator.

    Has anyone noticed a tangible difference after installing insulation in a tin shed ?

    Bill

  2. #2
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    Bill,
    When my tin shed was built some 15 years ago, 6*10*2.5m I had Astrofoil installed under the roof and walls, this has proven over time to make a large difference especially during summer, shed usable on days of 35C but when its above 40 everything is too hot. The other advantage I find is swings between hot and cold even out more, so condensation issues are minimised. At the time the foil was not cheap being imported from Canada. The tape used to join the sheets is starting to loose its stickiness so will need to be replaced at some point.
    As for retro installing, possible, but it would be a big job. Good luck with it. Alan.

  3. #3
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    The results that you get will depend to an extent on the overall size of the shed. I had an American Barn at my former home with side walls 4.2m high and central ridge line 6.5m high, with aircell insulation between the roofing sheets and the purlins they were screwed to. This was very effective in that environment because of the huge airspace between my head and the insulation. Similar material in the roof of a friends shed with 2.4m walls was a waste of money because the heat that passed through the insulation was close to head height and became obvious before midday and uncomfortable by 2pm in summer.

    One issue with all forms of insulation is that it is a two way thing, it slows heat transfer into the building but does not stop it, then it also slows the heat transfer out of the building when the ambient temp falls (e.g. at night). Unless you have a means to bypass the insulation and air the building, heat will build up in an insulated building over a few hot days. An opposite but similar effect occurs in winter with cold.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  4. #4
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    The new section of my shed is insulated and the old section was not.
    On a still 40º max day, from when the sun rose to about midday the temp difference at head height in the two areas of the shed was as much as 5º.

    I retrofitted insulation (fibreglass with the Al underside) in between the steel Z section rafters (1.6m apart) on the old part of the shed

    I started by loosely Tek screwing wooden battens to the rafters - by loose I mean leaving a 1" gap between the batten and rafter.
    Then I loosely attached 1.2 wide (1.6 m long) strips of insulation support wire between battens.
    The ends of the support wire was wrapped around the batten and loosely twisted back onto itself.
    This allowed 1.2 m x 1.6 pieces of insulation to be slipped in between the wire and the roof.
    Then the wiring was drawn taut by a combination of pulling and twisting the ends of the support wire supports and then tightening the TEK screws.
    It's slow but it worked really well because it was only a 5.3 x 3.5 m area. If it was any bigger and area I would go for foam insulation and glue it in place.

    It made a big difference.
    In the evening, to cool the shed down I just ran my dust extractor (1200 CFM) and my two ventilation fans (1200 and 1600 CFM) and it was at ambient air temp within ~20 minutes.

    Then I installed my aircon - BLISS.

  5. #5
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    How thick is this insulation Bob? I have some rolls of fibreglass/foil insulation I intend to use in the roof of my shed. It is about 50mm thick. I was just going to remove the iron, lay the insulation over the rafters then put the iron back on. The rolls are about 4ft wide. I want access to the rafters.

    Dean

  6. #6
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    Huge difference between lined and unlined. I can work in the shed on 40 degree days, I'd say it's a good 5 to 10 degrees cooler, a fan provides a bit of air movement and some cooling.

    I put fibreglass batts (R3.2 if I recall ) supported by that dark green foil lined polystyrene panel ( that you already have ) I spray painted it ( before installing ) so the inside face of the panels is white to brighten things up a bit. A white ceiling makes the lighting much more effective.

    Only problem area I have is the uninsulated roller doors which face west, walking near those on a 40 degree day you can feel the heat. Maybe a removable insulated panel that mounts against the roller door might work?

  7. #7
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    Hi,

    What a coincidence! After living in our house for the last 14 months I finally started to work on my new man cave - the old garden shed. It's 4.7 mtrs by 3.2 mtrs with a height of 2.1 mtrs or so. All I can say is it gets bloody hot in summer.

    I installed a whirlybird from bunnings last month which helped a little. I've also put in four 75mm by 75mm vents around the shed for airflow (probably kidding myself) and have another two to put in.

    Yesterday and today I've put in (real roughly) 20mm M grade EPS sheets. I've done the bulk of the ceiling (just have the edges to fill in with offcuts) and one wall which faces due west. Once I've finished all the walls I'll put on 7 to 10 mm ply sheet.

    I may put in another whirlybird and hopefully a window as well. I like to think it's working so far but it's hard to tell - its 34 degrees so I stopped working (I am on my last day of holidays!).

    Ben.

    ps The shed is still messy, I've rearranged it at least 4 times since moving in.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    jatt's Avatar
    jatt is offline Always within 10 paces from nearest stubby holder
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    Then I installed my aircon - BLISS.
    At work the shed is 23 x 9 x 3.6 mtr wall height. Lining any shed after the fact is usually quite a job. Wasn't even gunna go there on something this big.

    All we have is the usual sisal under the roof sheeting and a couple of whirly birds. What makes the biggest different is the swampy up on the roof. Plumber tells me its about the biggest one we could get on single phase. Open the doors at each end a bit for airflow. We don't get a lot of humid days here, so it is worthwhile. Once the fan is running the power cost is very reasonable for the benefit.

    Don't recon it would be too hard to track down a working secondhand unit off a house.
    Frisky wife, happy life. ​Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.
    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  9. #9
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    I have a 6x4 mtr tin shed, walls are insulated but not the roof, When new installed a whirlybird,but it draws hot air out and also in, my solution was to clean the roof with vinegar,and then paint the whole shed with two coats of white oil enamel, not Acrylc enamel, problem for me solved, as I don't spend all day in the shed, but when I do use it is comfortable ,then I stop the whirlybird as it don;t help, if you don't beleive me ,paint a piece of roof iron white when cold when dry put in the hot sun with a non painted piece and when you can't hold the not painted piece you could sit on the unpainted piece .

    Forgot to say keep the doors and windows shut or it don't help.
    Eddie

  10. #10
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    How thick is this insulation Bob? I have some rolls of fibreglass/foil insulation I intend to use in the roof of my shed. It is about 50mm thick. I was just going to remove the iron, lay the insulation over the rafters then put the iron back on. The rolls are about 4ft wide. I want access to the rafters.

    Dean
    50mm sounds about right.

    If you can easily removed the iron then I would do that.
    How far apart are the rafters? you might still need to lay supporting wire though

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    50mm sounds about right.

    If you can easily removed the iron then I would do that.
    How far apart are the rafters? you might still need to lay supporting wire though
    About 1050mm so will probably need some extra support.

    Dean

  12. #12
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    Evaparative air conditioner


    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjq2JbHz77RAhUEmJQKHRcvA6sQFghbMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.breezair.com.au%2Fhow-evaporative-works%2F&usg=AFQjCNGlLyILSrtR1kfjBDTJUkoZpXfoDA&sig2=Oc2LBnbrEwv46N3yLQhzUQ

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wm460 View Post
    Evaparative air conditioner


    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjq2JbHz77RAhUEmJQKHRcvA6sQFghbMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.breezair.com.au%2Fhow-evaporative-works%2F&usg=AFQjCNGlLyILSrtR1kfjBDTJUkoZpXfoDA&sig2=Oc2LBnbrEwv46N3yLQhzUQ

    Blimey ......... that was quick ........... I realised what it meant as soon as I had posted the question and deleted the post but you had already put up an answer ....... so .... thanks

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Only problem area I have is the uninsulated roller doors which face west, walking near those on a 40 degree day you can feel the heat. Maybe a removable insulated panel that mounts against the roller door might work?
    That's an easy one!

    Garage Door Insulation | All Insulation

    Before I extended my garage, I had non insulated roller doors, and they got way too hot to walk even close to on a warm summers day, despite being partially shaded by the eaves. (The mission brown colour probably doesn't help!) When I extended the garage, I reused the same doors, but right at the front with no shading at all, and put that stuff on them. (I'm pretty sure it was from that mob, but its a few years ago now...) I wasn't really expecting that much, but I was adding insulation in the walls and ceiling as well, since I was tired of cooking in there, so I figured every little helps. I was expecting even less when I actually got the stuff, it's basically bubblewrap with foil on both sides...

    Turns out, it works far, far better than it should. I can stand right next to the door on a 35-40 degree day, and only feel a little warmth, not considerably more than the west facing plastered wall. If you put your hand near the edge of the door, where the insulation doesn't quite go to the edges (for clearance on the guides etc) you can feel just how hot it would be otherwise. Same as if you open the flap to access the lock mechanism for the roller door, heat wafts out of there too. Has no effect on the ability of the door to roll up, and doesn't appear to be falling off yet after 5 or 6 years.

  15. #15
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    I had my new shed 24x12x3.6 fully insulated with that blanket stuff(extra thick foil backed with about 75mm thick rockwool adhered to it), it is much cooler than outside probably a good 5°C.
    When I win xlotto and get the concrete floor in and all sealed up it should be even better!
    ....................................................................

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