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  1. #91
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Sorry, wasn't aware that it's a flat belt that is required. Would conveyor belting do? Once you work out the length, get a belting company to glue on up for you.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Are you sure your model has a separate belt for the table drive, Greg? The only model I'm aware of that has one is the model with a direct spindle drive.... I thought the spindle belt went all the way around the table drive pulley too..... but I've been wrong before.... lots of times....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    Rydell belting is normally the place recommended for flat drive belts.
    That 19/64" bolt is a nuisance - It's possibly 5/16" (could be wrong) but the tpi sure is not standard.

    Michael

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    No troubles Kryn. I am always thankful for help!

    Michael - their name cropped up. Cool. Re the 19/64 bolt. I went and checked again this morning. Yup. 0.295" OD. Near enough. Guy at the bolt shop said he'd never seen one before. Lucky I have one intact that fits otherwise it might have been tricky trying to figure that out. I'll make some, but I've not yet found any connectors to get my new 'import' weed burner hooked up to my BBQ bottle so I can heat treat stuff - but that is another story.

    Hi Joe, I am pretty sure this one needs two belt. See pic. The second one just drives the table. There is a small pulley on the back of the main pulley for it. Notice how it is crossed over. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure that is how my model is supposed to work.

    belts1.JPG

    I guess it also has to be fairly snug on there. It certainly looks so in the pic.

    Greg.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    Great progress! If you need them I have decent selection of taper pin reamers, annoyingly not many pins though, I find them very difficult to find here.

    Regards - Ralph

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StrayAlien View Post
    Hi Joe, I am pretty sure this one needs two belt. See pic. The second one just drives the table. There is a small pulley on the back of the main pulley for it. Notice how it is crossed over. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure that is how my model is supposed to work.
    I guess it also has to be fairly snug on there. It certainly looks so in the pic.

    Greg.
    You are absolutely right Greg. I had never noticed that second belt in the parts list.... Should be easy enough to get made, but not so easy to get the length right....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    If I'd been going to buy *one* new chuck, I'd have bought the best 4 jaw I could get my hands on. I rarely bother with a 3 jaw chuck. Generally it's a collet or a 4 jaw.

    Not surprised you found oddball bolts. Manufacturers tend to make their own standards. You just have to make replacements when you find them and curse the original design engineers along with their offspring to the 4th generation. No need to go overboard about it.

    PDW

  8. #98
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Re your bolt, would it be easier to fit in the next size available standard bolt? Unless you're going for originality.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Never ceases to amaze me. Them big old lumps of metal being made to work via bits of cow.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    PDW: re the bolt. Hah! Agree. It wasn't even yet the depression so no need to skimp out on metal. During the war years (and sometime after) it seems bolts in the UK became odd sizes with odd heads to save on metal .. so I found out when doing the Alba shaper.

    Re the chuck. ) I have also bought a 4 jaw that I believe is better quality than the H&F ones. I've no backing plate for it yet so I can't mount it, but I butchered the old mount for the 3 jaw so I could use the new 3 chuck. Good riddance. I like using collets and have a 5c to er32 collet adapter for the lathe but the draw bar handle is waay to big and wobbly to spin at speed. I'll make a special er32 collet chuck at some stage.

    Kryn, hey not a bad idea. I'll see if I can make some first. I've got some silver steel and I think I may have solved my "how to attach the weed burner to the BBQ bottle" issue to heat treat them. I dropped by a BOC this morning and got an adapter that *might* fit the hose and the bottle. I did get an 8mm barbed jobby that I thought would do it but 8mm is too big .. so found something similar at 5mm.

    On the belt, if Joe's replacement (thanks Joe) is the right size then I might just be able to make a table belt from the old main belt. I have that - but not the old table belt. That old bit of cow sat in the rain for 10 years but my guess is it was so full of oil and crap that it has been preserved. It's not too bad.

    As an aside, I went looking (again) for a source of taper pins. The last lot I bought are not long enough. Blackwoods sells boxes of 100 for $300 plus! McMaster carr in the US sells 25 for $8 US. Guess where I am placing an order ....

    Greg.

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    229

    Default

    Hi Greg
    For taper pins try bolt.com.auIMG_0128.PNG

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Hey, nice link. $1.45 for a 1.5" pin. Excellent. I'll support the Aussie shop. Thanks.

    Greg.

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StrayAlien View Post
    As an aside, I went looking (again) for a source of taper pins. The last lot I bought are not long enough. Blackwoods sells boxes of 100 for $300 plus! McMaster carr in the US sells 25 for $8 US. Guess where I am placing an order ....

    Greg.
    Really? I've never been able to get anything from McMaster Carr, if you manage it, I would be very interested to find out the secret. They don't ship to Australia, and they don't ship to mail forwarders either.

    But it's probably irrelevant, since you are now getting them from a local supplier.

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Ray, you've got me curious about McCaster Carr now. I'll try to order a knick knack!

    I have finished the final cleanup and painting and most items that were left out in the elements. I'm leaving the carriage and table for now. I now really want to get things down to must making or finding the bits that are needed to get it mechanically going again - "except for the spindle". The spindle will have to be a thing in itself.

    Here is the painted stuff:

    IMAG0966.jpgIMAG0967.jpg


    The grinder body and column were inside the farm shed and not in the rain so I'll not be painting them. I'll likely just get some cutting compound and a buffer on that paint to clean it up a little in the hope that under the ground in gunk the paint is a little lighter and perhaps a better match for the, erm, colour matched paint. It did the same for the Alba shaper and the paint actually came up very well - thought it certainly was in better condition that this paint.

    Oh, and the red is not my artistic expression, those bits were actually originally red. The inside of the cabinet door is red too, as it the 'well' area on the table.

    The belt rollers also needed cleanup and reassembly. There are three. A big thanks to forum member jhovel who bought around a box of bearing bits from his B&S #2 conversion. It had enough bearings in there so that I didn't have to buy any. Thanks again Joe. Very much appreciated. I used them all. )

    IMAG0959.jpgIMAG0961.jpgIMAG0962.jpg


    As an aside Joe, re the 'two belts' thing. Here is the little pulley on the back of the main pulley that drives the table gubbins. It is quite geared down.

    IMAG0956.jpg

    Next, I have to make some 1:48 tapered stuff. Pins, yes, but not the off-the-shelf sort. I need two pins with threaded ends on them - they actually screw in to their housing. And also, two quite large pins to hold the clutch unit in - the photo in the previous post with the rusty pin on the parts diagram. It turns out that it is actually a largish taper pin with a hex head on it.

    Another weird thread cropped up. One of the threads on the end of the belts roller shafts is a (wait for it) 1/2" 14. Not a UNC 1/2" 13. Nope. 14. I checked it about 5 times. 14. And it was crossed threaded so I had a bugger of a time getting the nut on. Actually, I used at thread file to clean up the 14.

    Greg.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

    Default

    The reply I got from McMaster-Carr is they only supply their established Oz clients. I'm guessing that means the larger US based or affiliated Oz company's.

    What I find handy about the McMaster-Carr site is the prices are listed so I have a start figure when shopping about.

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