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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Thanks Joe, I doubt it is *that* adjustable!! But, time will tell. I think before I get around to that bit, I'll get some practice first by making a test bar for the spindle to check alignment. I am a fair way off that as yet - but .. hopefully, it is as 'easy' as you say. That'd be nice! )

    I figure a test bar maybe could also be used to lap out any small roughness inside the boxes.

    (btw, I like the face-palm emoticon!). )

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

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    I hope you realise I was joking.....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    I kind of figured you may have been, but was secretly hoping you weren't! )

    I made a start yesterday on chuck backing plates and screwed it up so I went back to cleaning and disassembly. More on plate today.

    All the pulleys came apart okay - luckily. Bearing are open and with a felt ring around both ends as dust seals.

    IMAG0433.jpgIMAG0434.jpg

    Two pulleys were in reasonable condition. The one left outside on the 'belt tightener frame' was not. The roller bearings are 'garden variety' 6204. They'll be replaced with sealed bearings and then I don't need to track down any felt.

    IMAG0436.jpgIMAG0437.jpg

    As bit early to be considering painting but I had some time yesterday morning so I got a litre of paint colour-matched so, as I go, I can get some cast pieces protected - if I feel inclined. I don't really enjoy painting very much. The paint is Wattyl Argricultural Enamel. Basically "Tractor Paint". I have used it before and, as I understand it, it is about as hardy as it gets before going to a two-pack. I've had mixed success with it. It is holding up well on the lathe except for where I put it on too many layers and where it gets a very hard time with oil and sharp hot chips - on the compound and cross slide.

    I also have a tub of etch primer from the same paint line. It is good for 6 months or so without being covered so good for these types of projects.

    I really don't know too much about paint though. It ain't a favourite thing of mine ...
    Last edited by StrayAlien; 9th Oct 2016 at 11:22 AM. Reason: typo

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

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    Quote Originally Posted by StrayAlien View Post
    .....I really don't know too much about paint though. It ain't a favourite thing of mine ...
    If the original paint has an interesting patina oft times it is best left as is.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Thanks YBAF, agree,

    I only got a litre of it so that I could just do the things that have lost paint as a side effect of the electrolysis or that the paint basically just fell off or has been removed while getting at rust with the wire cup.

    The paint on it is in different states - some places are okay, some places is just flaking off. For now, I'll get it working again and then make a decision - but I kinda think that is the paint has survived 90 years then it should stay as best it can. The lathe and the mill did not have original paint, so they got redone, but the shaper had original paint and it was in very good condition, so it stayed - patina, scratches and warts.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

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    Our local bearing supplier has felts...just sayin'

    Phil

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Thanks Phil, interesting. I didn't know that bearing suppliers here might do that. Noted.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

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    Not that hard to make concentric punches and cut your own (few) from flat felt - which is available in craft shops in many thicknesses....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default felt

    If you need to make felt or cork gaskets/seals . Use a piece of plywood in your chuck, use some 2 sided tape and stick it onto one side of the felt/cork and then stick it onto the plywood. Use a thin cutting tool , like a craft blade in a tool holder and adjust to your desired diameter and cut away. Link here to a guy restoring a 1927 truck Vulcan VSW 30cwt 6x4. - Page 9

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    morrisman, what an extremely interesting thread that about the Vulcan truck resto! I see what you mean about the chuck and felt/cork thing. Good to know.

    Actually one interesting thing in there is how he dealt with pitting on machined shafts. He used metal putty then machined that back. Sounds like that might come in handy.

    As it happens, forum member jhovel (Joe) has kindly donated some bearings from his converted BS2 which no longer uses them, plus some new-in-box ones as well. Perhaps I ought to also extend a thank-you to the former owner of that machine GregQ. Thanks Greg.

    The bearings are of the sealed variety so no new felts required.

    Joe also donated the motor pulley a belt in very good condition. That is cool. )

    Thanks Joe. And thanks for dropping over and for the advice on stuff.

    I am an electrical nong and Joe also kindly pointed out that the motor that I thought was from the BS2 and was 2hp was actually 1/3hp and certainly not the BS2 motor. See! A nong.

    It might be useful as a toolpost grinder motor if it still works or can be made to work. Looks like a nice unit.

    I'm back into the shed for some more BS2 activity this weekend so I'll get some more pics up. I am down to two taper pins and the seized stuff on the end of the spindle. All of which seems *impossible* to get apart. But, patience is required ...

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Some catch up.

    I did get the spindle head back plate off. Just to show how much I know about surface grinders I didn't actually realise it was, erm, just a plate.

    IMAG0442.jpgIMAG0453.jpg

    The blue strap you see is from advice here to secure stuff while tapping to make sure it doesn't fall. It has been undone in the pic above.

    Very faint signs of scraping on the ways:

    IMAG0454.jpg

    But .. nothing like the scraping on the spindle head. Not a bearing surface, but, at least if I need to do anything here I have a factory plane to work from.

    IMAG0455.jpg

    I was happy to see gibs strips on the spindle head. Looks like this one has been adjusted with bits of paper. I used grease proof paper as 0.002" shims for the spindle bearing caps on the '41 South Bend 10 and it worked a treat. Looks like it is an old trick.

    IMAG0450.jpgIMAG0451.jpg

    I have spoken a lot about a test reassembly. I am pretty convinced that I have almost all parts and what I don't have I could make. Besides, I have removed a fair number of the bronze (brass?) bushings so stuff won't reassemble nicely and turn unless I put them back in or make new ones before a test reassemble. I don't yet have the correct bronze to make the bushings so I'll continue on and deal with things as they come.

    I started the in-depth cleaning on the parts that would get a 'manual-only' grinder happening. That means all passages and oil holes, removing all remaining traces of rust and (most) black-oxide from electrolysis. Removing broken oil cups, burr-filing off wear lips on shafts, and all that stuff. It takes a while.

    IMAG0462.jpg

    For anybody undertaking something like this I do have to recommend cheapie chinese dremel buffs. Get a dremel or same and buy a bunch of buffs of different grades and especially some wire wheel also. They really are absolutely indispensable in getting things cleaned up. Worth $1,000,000, cost $30.

    IMAG0476.jpg

    For getting broken oil cups out, I screw a large screw into them and use something to thump or yank them out.

    IMAG0472.jpg

    Previously, I showed the cross feed screw with pitting. I figured the proof is in the pudding so I cleaned it up and also got the mud out of the cross feed nut (it lived for 10 years in dirt - it took some cheapie dremel buffs in there to do the job!). There is a lot of play but, I feel no 'grabbing' here or there to indicate high spots on the screw. So, for now, despite the fact that it is quite worn, I'll call that a non-issue and use it as-is:

    IMAG0465.jpgIMAG0466.jpg

    .. except for the thread on the end - it is cross-threaded badly. I got to it with a thread file and recovered it somewhat but I may have to get it on the lathe:

    IMAG0467.jpgIMAG0468.jpg

    So with many things cleaned I think now I am at a place where I can try to figure out how all this crap fits together. So, armed with the parts list I have set about figuring out the jigsaw puzzle.

    IMAG0474.jpg

    I know, besides bushings, the first thing to make is the 'rack pinion shaft'. I'll have some questions about that tomorrow.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,945

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    I hope you photographed all the bits as they came apart, or that you're extremely good at jigsaw puzzles
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    heh heh. This stuff all came 'ready disassembled' in boxes. So, in short. I have no pics! ) Well ..I do have the pics of the seized assemblies that I took apart so that is under control. But the other stuff? nope. Not even sure what half of it does. The part diagram at gives a hint of assembly, but as Bob said you cant' really put it back together from that.

    But, what better way to learn eh. )

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    54
    Posts
    825

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    G'day Greg,
    You have certainly embarked on a monumental project. I've seen engines dug up from dry river beds restored to as good as new but never anything like a machine tool, let alone a surface grinder. Given that what you started with looked to be not far removed from a river bottom you have made outstanding progress in a short time. Keep up the great work. I'm not sure where in Melb your are but I'm in Fawkner so if there is anything I might be able to help with don't hesitate to yell out.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Thanks Greg. Offer of assistance is very much appreciated. I'm going to need all the help I can get! Most of this is out of my skill level so I'll be squeaking "cries for help" here. I've always maintained that you don't really learn something until you got to problem to solve using it. There is more than a bit of that in this project.

    Those 'WW2 plane rescued from sea bed and engines fired up' restos are pretty amazing. Now *they* are monumental projects!

    I recall reading a lathe resto thread somewhere where the guy did an amazing job and I really liked his attitude to it: "treat every part as a project".

    So, if I treat this one as a series of individual projects that all add up then I'll get there without being too overwhelmed! And I'll build some skills in bites as I go.

    First 'small project' cab off the rank will have to be the rack pinion shaft and surround gubbins. I'll get some pics here later.

    Thanks again for the support and the offer of help. I'll likely take you up on it! )

    Greg.

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