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  1. #136
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    The important thing is that you TRY. Regardless of how many times you have to do something, you still learn, yep that worked or DAM that didn't work again.
    Better that you try and fail, than fail by not trying.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #137
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

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    You know the definition of experience?
    "It allows you rapidly recognise mistakes - when you make them AGAIN"
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #138
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Gold. Yep. That is my future self. )

  4. #139
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Its nice to see what the innards of an Eclipse 18 x 6 look like, there's not too much magical stuff in there after all.

    What's what in the through bolted assembly, the thick bits, the medium bits and the skinny bits? Presumably the skinny bits are a brass or similar separator, are the thick bits and medium bits both magnets or is one the magnet and the other a piece of (presumably) very low carbon steel?

  5. #140
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Hi Bob,

    Correct on all counts. The separators are brass (or similar), the thin bits are the magnets and the thick bits are metal of some sort. As I clean it up I'll get some more pics here.

    I guess the magic is in the way the flux finds its path. I think it all very clever. I am a complete dunce at all electrics and so on - but apparently, the magic disappears when it can find no path ... so when you take the magnets out and away from the base or top of whatever they are attached to the tiny little magic unicorns trapped inside fly away. Or so I am told.

  6. #141
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Hey all,


    I have been attempting to figure out the puzzle that is how the mechanical movements on the grinder work.


    Consider: the motor only spins in one direction. From that there is a mechanical table left/right with adjustable stops and an automatic carriage feed as well that operates independently of the table. Both mechanisms can be turn on/off and adjusted separately from each other. It is a little puzzling to be honest. When I figure it out I'll get it posted here. There are a fair number of moving parts on this old girl.


    When I was test fitting up stuff I discovered this:

    IMAG1100.jpgIMAG1102.jpg


    The crossfeed leadscrew is bent ... like many other shafts on this girl. Major bummer. But .. the upside is that it means I can learn how to make a new one ... and it probably wanted a new one anyways. I need to do some other acme screws so this will be the first.


    The mag chuck has come along. Stuff has been cleaned up and new brass rods made to hold the mag stack together. I did a a test assembly with the top plate and body together so I could actuate the lever to see how it operated. Hey look - it works:

    IMAG1111.jpg


    Then I thought I'd try to fix this bent handle:

    IMAG1113.jpg


    .. and hey look - it's broken. DOH! That didn't go according to plan.

    IMAG1114.jpg


    For the test assembly I have used non-drying lithium machine grease. I suspect that should be okay for the final assembly. Oil would leak out but stopping that using some gasket goo would alter the distance of the magnets to the base place .. and I reckon they must be only a thou or so from it when assembled. Might be important (?).

    Some other pics:

    The 'shroud of turin' looking corrosion under where the eccentric lives:

    IMAG1105.jpg

    I just cannot imagine why these are on the base plate. Like something from American Werewolf In London - geeez:


    IMAG1106.jpg

    And the new brass rods:


    IMAG1108.jpg

    And as a stack:

    IMAG1110.jpg

    (oh, Bob - I said incorrectly that the narrow bits in the stack are the magnets. Nope. They are just steel spacers. The magnets are the large metal bits.)

    Oh .. and lucky *lucky* me, man this is just joy - sheer joy. I am so lucky and thankful. A box:

    IMAG1131.jpg

    And after a little wd40 on the label:

    IMAG1134.jpg

    .. and on the inside ... some extra goodies ...

    IMAG1133.jpg

    It is the box and attachments for the B&S radius and tangent dresser. Amazing. Can't say how happy and proud and thankful I am to be the new owner of this gem and the dresser. I can only hope I do it justice by bringing its stablemate grinder back to life.

    On another note, in order to make a gear for the basket case surface grinder, I have acquired the basket case indexing assembly from (what I believe is) a basket case T&C grinder. Same provenance as the B&S grinder and suffered the same end-of-life fate - out in the weather. I'll start a separate thread to ask questions about it but here are some pics anyways:


    IMAG1126.jpg

    If I can get it going, this will be my indexer. Maybe ...


    Greg.

  7. #142
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

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    If it is just a simple bend in the shaft you may be able to straighten it, as was done here -
    //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1837...47#post1765347

    Michael

  8. #143
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Thanks Michael,

    Nice link. Thanks - some good info in there. I like your method for aligning the column.

    Re the shaft. It is likely it could be straightened - which I will give a go actually. But it probably wants replacing. It is rust pitted on the acme threads and the handle retaining thread is chewed to hell. I figured that the cross feed nut likely has reasonably even wear in it, so cutting a new screw to fit the nut (slightly wider than standard acme I imagine) might take up some slack there. But I will give straightening it a go first. Thanks.

    At any rate, I need it to be straight-ish while I am testing fitting stuff.

  9. #144
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Hi all,

    It's been a few weeks since an update. So, apologies for the bandwidth starved, but this is a longish one. Hopefully I don't bust some picture limit.

    Michael, I used your method to straighten the cross feed screw. I got it down to about 1 thou in the narrow section but when I mounted it the far end still had some wobble so it might need to be replaced yet. Good enough for test fit-up though.

    I have got enough things done now to actually be able to create a list of what remains to be done "except for the spindle". Feels good. All bushings except for the vertical handwheel done. All shafts (except cross feed screw) have been refurbished.

    Some specifics:

    You may recall this guy - the reversing lever:

    IMAG0178.jpg

    It was bent and pretty badly rusted. I machined it back to get under the rust and the bend and made some new (thicker!) bushings to go with it:

    IMAG1236.jpg

    As an indication of how much it had to be cut back (and how bent it was!):

    IMAG1238.jpg

    Where I can I try and keep original parts. This was made by #44A. I wonder if 'A' is an apprentice of 44? Note the two screw holes peeping through - yes ... cut *well* back (but I think still robust enough to do the job)

    IMAG1237.jpg

    But .. a test fit-up and she is looking good:

    IMAG1262.jpg

    The black is my 'go to' black paint. VHT satin black engine paint. Darn hardy stuff. Always have a can handy. Goes on easy, sticks like sh*t to a blanket.

    The two holes got a dab of solder in them and filed back:

    IMAG1244.jpgIMAG1257.jpg

    The 'rack pinion shaft bushings' where interesting. They are keyed, but also have little 'hats' for spacing:

    IMAG1250.jpg

    You might notice the difference from original in a) lengths, and b) 'hat' width. I have no comprehension at all of why the long one is long. The parts list shows it shorter. So I made it as such. The hat width is, I suspect, how they are meant to be but have been waaaay worn down. The hat spacers are to keep this to top gear in position relative to the lower gear:

    IMAG1245.jpgIMAG1246.jpg

    The ridiculous wear meant that the top gear (the 'rack' pinion) could drift right and end up only half engaging with the lower gear - the 'intermediate rack gear'. Trouble. The second photo above shows how this ended up.

    Oddly, the rack pinion shaft has one steel bearing. I suspect that is original because the oil way grooves in it match others. Might not be, but I made one the same:

    IMAG1269.jpgIMAG1270.jpg

    The little swiveling guy on this is way gone:

    IMAG0241.jpg

    This machine is *VERY* mechanical. I can't dismiss that the reason it crashed was because of wear in little items like this. It controls the auto-crossfeed mechanism so who knows what might happen if it sort of does not quite do its job ....

    It is made from quite (very) hard stuff. I made a new one from 4140 PH. I stuffed up filing the rounded end nicely but it ain't important.

    IMAG1265.jpg

    The square is to fit with this - the top of the pawl:

    IMAG1267.jpg

    to get:

    IMAG1268.jpg

    The pitting looks awful in the pic, but .. just more places to hold oil. ) That hooky thing there is *very* hard. I have used a burr file to smooth out any rough spots on stuff like this. Some of the parts in this area are *really* darn hard so took a bit of effort.

    The 'rack pinion shaft' is truly awful. I have made a new one and took PDW's advice to ignore woodruff keys and just cut keyways. The photo makes the shafts look different lengths, but they are the same.

    IMAG1286.jpg

    I have never cut keyways like this before so I made a prototype to practice on:

    IMAG1280.jpg

    The stop dogs for the auto cross feed needed replacing:

    IMAG1283.jpg

    The thread was 1/4-26. 26!! They are topped by a knurled nut and I've not got a tap so I cut them 1/4-24 - which means I need to make two of these guys:

    IMAG1285.jpg

    I attempted my first knurling on the lathe - with a 'push' type .. not a scissor type. It seems to have bent something - maybe the cross feed nut as I can now almost not move the cross feed at all. I'll have to tear it down. If it is bad ... this may be the last post for a while until I sort it out! F*ck!ng b@ll@cks. Last time I use a 'push' type.

    But ... winding back a few days, I have done some work on the basket-case mag chuck. I have made a new handle shaft and started on a new lever

    IMAG1214.jpgIMAG1216.jpgIMAG1218.jpg

    I do not yet have my four jaw mounted so I shimmed a jaw on the three jaw to get the offset:

    IMAG1212.jpg

    oh .. and the work-in-progress lever .. :

    IMAG1241.jpg

    I'll see how I go with the lathe cross feed ... but some other stuff *really* need fixing on the lathe as well ... so if it needs repair ... the 1928 Brown and Sharpe project might have to wait on the 1941 South Bend 10 project ....

    All help and advice appreciated.

    Greg.

  10. #145
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

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    QUOTE: The thread was 1/4-26. 26!!

    For future reference if you find any more of these, 1/4 BSC (cycle thread) is also 60 degrees 26 TPI, and 1/4 BSF and 1/4 Brass thread are 55 degrees and 26 TPI, so 26TPI taps are fairly readily available.

    Frank.

  11. #146
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default

    Thanks Frank. The things we learn eh.

    As a small update, I stripped the lathe crossfeed yesterday and cleaned it up ... I could see nothing wrong with it that would cause the 'post-knurling' troubles. So I put it all back together and it is fine ... maybe a chip got wedged somewhere. Dunno. Just happy I can delay (again!) repairs to the lathe ... )

    However, I don't think I'll do too much 'push' knurling on it.

    Greg.

  12. #147
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

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    Im not sure what type of gib is fitted to the sb cross slide, but i found in my older lathe the gibs could jam under heavy loading, as they were only firmly secured in one direction, When i reworked them i made sure they had screws at both ends to 100% lock them in place, that might not make heaps of sense but I can show you next time you are round.

  13. #148
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    the gibs could jam under heavy loading
    I think you might have it there. Thanks. That seems a very likely candidate. The cross slide gib is tapered and secured at one end. With load the pressure pushes into the wedge thus firming things up.

    Beer.

    Greg.

    Oh, I understand what you mean about secured at both ends. My mill is like that.

  14. #149
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Sounds weird. I have had gibs jam while adjusting them because I had the locking screw backed off.

    I adjusted the gib on the column of my mill on the weekend. I thought it was about time. It has been overlooked up to now. The screws moved about 7.0mm. Now I am only getting 0.10mm of movement (nod) when I lock the column.

    Dean

  15. #150
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    1,376

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    Im not sure what type of gib is fitted to the sb cross slide, but i found in my older lathe the gibs could jam under heavy loading, as they were only firmly secured in one direction, When i reworked them i made sure they had screws at both ends to 100% lock them in place, that might not make heaps of sense but I can show you next time you are round.
    Plenty of gibs are only secured at one end.

    This gib adjustment screw. Did it have a flange / top hat that engaged the gib, and a lock nut? All on the same adjustment screw?

    Regards Phil

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