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Thread: Restoring an old mill
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18th Jul 2016, 11:11 PM #1Senior Member
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Restoring an old mill
I have just been given an old horizontal mill and wish to fit a vertical head to it and make it look new - I think I am O.K. with the painting and polishing of the steel parts but don't have any ideas on bringing the cast iron parts up to scratch - could anyone who knows how please let me knpw?
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19th Jul 2016, 03:45 AM #2
There are many threads here on restoring vintage machine tools. Some give you great detail and photos of every step. That would be a good starting point. Do you know about metrology and scraping for alignment? To refresh or update you knowledge on those topics, I suggest reading the entire thread by R.C. on the restoration of his tool and cutter grinder. He explains the process better than most and takes good pictures and makes videos of the interesting steps.
Good luck!
What's the mill you were given? Someone may have the same one here. Photos of what you have would be good and then documenting your conversion and restoration. You will get lots of help and advice as you go along. Everyone wins.Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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22nd Jul 2016, 09:54 PM #3Diamond Member
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Joe would you be able to provide a link to the by .RC. ?. I tried searching for it without any luck. I am interested in reading the article myself. Thank you.
All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
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23rd Jul 2016, 12:13 AM #4Most Valued Member
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This is the only article that I could find by RC on painting his 10EE lathe, spent nearly 3 hours looking for a way to find it.
//metalworkforums.com/f65/t1703...nting-machines
HTH
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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23rd Jul 2016, 09:34 AM #5Pink 10EE owner
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The thread is not on this forum,. It is here TC grinder rebuild but the photo's are all gone as that forum does not have picture hosting and when photo bucket went full retard with the commercialisation of their site I deleted my account.
Here is a link to the 10EE rebuild OzEE rebuild
A link to the Jafo mill repair Jafo Jarocin mill repair.Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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24th Jul 2016, 10:11 AM #6Senior Member
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Thanks Joe - there is no brand on it and I will post some photos when I get it up here - it has 3 axis power assist, a swivelling table and marked 'universal mill' I have a russian built vertical head (iso40) which I will adapt to it and sleeve it down to suit R8 which the existing head I made has - all my tooling is R8 - the centre of the table has a large area broken out of it but I think I will be able to straddle that or mill it out and replace it. will keep you posted, thanks for the advice.
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24th Jul 2016, 11:47 AM #7Most Valued Member
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Nooooo!!! You might have R8 tooling, but using R8 compared to 40 taper is such a huge leap backwards that it's hard to adequately describe it!
Buy some 40 taper tooling and get the benefit of having a rigid tool system.
I've got both so I definitely speak with experience here.
If your 40 taper head is a powered turret type a la B/port, Kondia etc, I'll swap you for a genuine B/port head with R8 taper and we'll both be a lot happier.
PDW
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27th Jul 2016, 10:26 PM #8Senior Member
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I have already found that the iso40 arbor I have is as hard as nails and probably not possible to anneal which would be necessary to allow me to bore it R8 - I am only a hobbyest so tell me what is wrong with R8 - I need to have my adaptor plate ground both sides, is there anyone near the Taree area who can grind a plate 280 x260?
Alf Scotting
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28th Jul 2016, 03:53 AM #9
Hi Alf,
Iso40 tooling is simply more rigid as PDW said. R8 is a common American tool holding standard, much less common here and very much more slender as you know.
By the way, You may well be able to annesal your Iso40 arbour if you really want to: I've annealed one years ago to make a NT40 to Morse Taper 4 adapter. I put the big arbour in the house wood heater buried in a big bed of coals and kept the fire going strong for a couple of hours, then let it burn out overnight. The arbour was reasonably soft after I removed it and let cool to room/shed temperature. It is still tough steel to turn/bore and I have never bother to re-harden it.Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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28th Jul 2016, 09:22 AM #10Most Valued Member
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Nothing *wrong* with R8, it's just very, very inferior for any purpose compared to ISO 40 taper. 40 taper is also cheap due to very widespread use in CNC milling machines; I paid less than $100 for a balanced keyless chuck fitted to a 40 taper shank for example. It was designed for a CNC mill so very well made.
I might have a 40 taper to R8 adaptor in my collection of oddments but won't be back home for another month yet. I think they're commercially available; certainly 40 to MT2 & 3 are because I've got a few.
PDW
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28th Jul 2016, 11:37 AM #11Deceased
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The adapters are available.
From just a quick search............
40 Taper To R8 at Wholesale Tool
Probably cheaper than stuffing around with it and it's not permanent if you tool up with ISO40 going forward.
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12th Sep 2016, 10:45 PM #12Senior Member
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Thanks J
The mill is /was supplied by Servian machinery and is a Model GEA 2 serial No. 8803 - Do they still exist as I would like to know how old it is, the manufacturer and if there is any published info available for it - there is some chinese or japanese symbols on the base but no indication on who the manufacturer may have been - I am excited about getting it home as it will be so much better than my last mill having power feed to 3 axis and a swivelling table I will post photos later when the mill is not surrounded by crap and table covered
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13th Sep 2016, 09:42 AM #13Most Valued Member
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13th Sep 2016, 10:01 PM #14Senior Member
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Hi PDW
Are you interested in selling it? please advise
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23rd Sep 2016, 08:29 AM #15Golden Member
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