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  1. #31
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Still waiting for the bluing to finish so thought I would knock up a mitre slide for the little saw.

    To do this I cut a strip out of the SS table and attached a plate underneath the gap between the remaining pieces with countersunk screws.
    Then I cut another SS strip to act act as the slide.
    The slide edges and the side of the gap edges are sanded at 45º so the slide is held in the slot.
    I'm doing all this without a mill - just a plasma cutter and a linisher so any sort of half decent fit was a problem.
    I slightly loosened the screws holding the gap plate and then added some wax containing a couple of pinches of 1 um SiC powder from SWMBO jewellery making supplied and worked the slide back and forth and slowly tightened the screws, worked the slide back an forth some more and repeated this a couple of time until it went through smoothly - I was really impressed that this worked.
    The table is not exactly flat but it's not too bad given it is made of several segments of 2 mm thick SS plate just held together with CS screws.

    The mitre is made from assorted Al scraps.
    As usual the mitre is attached with CS screws through the slide - I will eventually makes some knobs to replace the nuts.
    The angle is just a friction grab but it locks really well.






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  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Horsham Victoria
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    That looks too good. Nice job indeed

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  3. #33
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    Jul 2014
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    Alphen aan den Rijn, Netherlands
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    Nicely made attachments! Concerning the slider: this is something a lot of woodworkers have made for their tablesaw too. Since a spinning sawblade protruding through the side of the jig you are pushing against isn't the safest thing most have added something to limit the length of the forward stroke (something that trails behind the fence and rides in the slot in the table, with a stopblock), and something to enclose the sawblade behind the jig upto this maximum protrusion (usually just a block of wood the sawblade gets buried into). Maybe something your jig would benefit from also?
    Nice homeshop engineering though, I like it!

    Peter

  4. #34
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by WoodBee2 View Post
    Nicely made attachments! Concerning the slider: this is something a lot of woodworkers have made for their tablesaw too. Since a spinning sawblade protruding through the side of the jig you are pushing against isn't the safest thing most have added something to limit the length of the forward stroke (something that trails behind the fence and rides in the slot in the table, with a stopblock), and something to enclose the sawblade behind the jig upto this maximum protrusion (usually just a block of wood the sawblade gets buried into). Maybe something your jig would benefit from also?
    A stop block and/or blade enclosure are amongst the sort of things I was thinking of, although the mitre slide works so well I will probably end up using that most of the time.

    Nice homeshop engineering though, I like it!
    Thanks WB2,

  5. #35
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    Jun 2010
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    Impressive work with a plasma axe and fast sandpaper!

  6. #36
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    OK - final picture all prettied up and read to rock, errr. . . . cut.

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  7. #37
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    Jul 2014
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    eindhoven the netherlands
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    now you can weld a piece of square tubing to the underside of the table where the blade comes through and attach a length of flexible alu tubing to it and attach that piece to your shop vacuum
    gets rid of the mess

  8. #38
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    SWMBO had her bookclub meeting last evening.
    Relegated to the shed I knocked this up and added a knurled brass knob to the mitre slide angle adjustment - that bits works .
    The stuff that comes off the whee including bits of wheel, have low momentum so the structure does not need to be super strong although the transparent component is polycarbonate.



    The guard is just high enough for the mitre slide to sneak under and can easily lift up out of the way if required.


    Next I will implement something along the lines of janvanruth's suggestion.
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  9. #39
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    Sep 2012
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    Default Freecycle Find.

    Hi Bob, Guys,

    You know I'm going to have to start avoiding scrap yards and freecycle yards. This tile saw just happened to be sitting next to the gate at the freecycle dump when I drove by. I went back for it, nobody wanted anything for it and since it wasn't actually inside the gate, the yard manager said take it. Around here if something has been taken to be disposed of the people at the yard won't let you take or have anything out of the yard at all even if you offer to pay for it.

    21082015-00.jpg 21082015-01.JPG 21082015-03.jpg

    I only got it this morning and apart from taking photographs and plugging it in, I've discovered that it doesn't work so unless its something that I can fix its going back. Its got a 4" diameter diamond wheel on it and it looks like someone has modified it because its got a bucket load of hot melt glue on the underside where the wheel is. So I'm guessing it originally only had a 3" wheel on it. Not surprising really when you consider that a 4" diamond wheel is half the price of a three inch one.

    Bob when I saw it the first thing that popped into my head was "would it convert to an abrasive saw" I'll have a play about with it and see what I can do with it.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #40
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Bob, Guys,

    You know I'm going to have to start avoiding scrap yards and freecycle yards. This tile saw just happened to be sitting next to the gate at the freecycle dump when I drove by. I went back for it, nobody wanted anything for it and since it wasn't actually inside the gate, the yard manager said take it. Around here if something has been taken to be disposed of the people at the yard won't let you take or have anything out of the yard at all even if you offer to pay for it.

    21082015-00.jpg 21082015-01.JPG 21082015-03.jpg

    I only got it this morning and apart from taking photographs and plugging it in, I've discovered that it doesn't work so unless its something that I can fix its going back. Its got a 4" diameter diamond wheel on it and it looks like someone has modified it because its got a bucket load of hot melt glue on the underside where the wheel is. So I'm guessing it originally only had a 3" wheel on it. Not surprising really when you consider that a 4" diamond wheel is half the price of a three inch one.

    Bob when I saw it the first thing that popped into my head was "would it convert to an abrasive saw" I'll have a play about with it and see what I can do with it.
    Pros: Free, not much modification needed just to get it running

    Cons:
    My wife has this same saw for her rock and glass jewellery work. It has a 185W motor - this will not be enough for a metal cutting saw
    Limited to 4" disc, You really want to go to 5" if you can. Not that you will want to cut a really think piece of meta; but so it won't be cutting shall angles all the time.
    Plastic will pick up and adhere hot pieces of metal
    Slow speed, typically 2850 RPM you really want it to go a bit faster if you can.

    Summary - better than nothing but expect only to cut small stuff with it slowly.

  11. #41
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    Hi Bob, Guys,

    Well I thought I had it made when I discovered that there wasn't a fuse in the plug No it still didn't run ! The motor has an open circuit in the field coils. I can't be bothered to mess around with it, so I've dumped it in the rubbish pile to go back to the freecycle yard when I next go that way.

    Back to plan "A"
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #42
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    Nov 2010
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    Default Will it cut through HSS ?

    Hey Bob,

    I like the tool you made. Well done.

    Would you be able to chop through a piece of HSS toolsteel or a HSS drill bit with it ?

    Reason I ask is when I make notches with a grinding wheel and tap it with a hammer I always get a fairly ragged break and I hate grinding it tidy.

    Bill

  13. #43
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by steamingbill View Post
    Hey Bob,

    I like the tool you made. Well done.

    Would you be able to chop through a piece of HSS toolsteel or a HSS drill bit with it ?

    Reason I ask is when I make notches with a grinding wheel and tap it with a hammer I always get a fairly ragged break and I hate grinding it tidy.

    Bill
    Absolutely no problem. It cuts HSS very well even as low at 5000 rpm but I typically do that at 9000 rpm.
    It great for forming odd shaped tool bits that would take a lot longer to grind into shape

    It's excellent for cutting diamond cross section points for near vertical tool tips. It doesn't cut them perfect but near enough that they just need a little grinding - saves a lot of tool steel that way.

    It does struggle to cut Crobalt but it still does it.

    Last week I got some 2 x 25 mm x 75 mm long HSS blades from a moulding machine and I ripped these length wise to make parting tool blanks.

    Yesterday I had to cut 2 - 10 mm wide slots in a piece of 8 mm thick steel to make an "E" shaped piece of steel - drilled 10 mm diam holes and then cut from the outside to the holes - no problem.

    Have since added an short guard underneath so the sparks and grit are directed downwards instead of between my legs - am now looking at hanging a metal can from the guard to catch the grit.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Absolutely no problem. It cuts HSS very well even as low at 5000 rpm but I typically do that at 9000 rpm.
    It great for forming odd shaped tool bits that would take a lot longer to grind into shape
    < snipped >
    Thanks Bob,

    Thats great news.

    Am going to shamelessly copy what youve done.

    Just gotta figure out whereabouts on the list it fits.

    Bill

  15. #45
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    Hi Bill,

    I use a similar technique to split HSS blanks I use my Dremel style multitool to put a groove all the way round then rest it across an old "V" block. Using a cold chisel a quick thump with a hammer does the job. The break is usually quite clean, but its the snapped end that I usually grind for the cutting edges.

    As far a Bob's thin kerf cutting wheel is concerned, I don't think it would have too much difficulty cutting HSS. But as Bob said, you can burn your fingers if you are not careful

    I don't know about AU but Aldi UK are selling packs of 11 thin (1.2 mm thick) 125 mm diameter cutting discs for steel at £3.99. That is a darn sight cheaper than the two I bought last week for £1.00 each.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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