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30th Apr 2020, 08:55 PM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- ACT, Australia
- Posts
- 8
Buying a horizontal bandsaw - what to consider
Hi brains trust,
Looking to buy a horizontal bandsaw to make cutting off quieter and more accurate than an angle grinder. I would like something that I can leave running and it will automatically switch off at the end of the cut
I am looking at 2 options. One has a swivel base, and a bigger cutting capacity. Other than the price, are there any downsides to the more expensive option?
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003
Also, what other online stores can I check out to find different options?
Thanks,
Andrew
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30th Apr 2020, 09:12 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 134
I have a BS-4A, and kind of wish i had bought the BS-5S. Don't get me wrong, the BS4A is a great saw. But i do a lot of mitred cuts and the swivel head would be very useful for my garage layout.
Either way plan on the stand being multiple levels of junk. My BS4 stand tore apart while moving it one day. So budget for building a new stand for them.
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30th Apr 2020, 10:15 PM #3
Hi AndrewMP,
Pros
Horizontal bandsaws are quiet. As you said, they can (quietly) cut while you are doing other work.
You can cut at 10pm and not upset your neighbors.
Once set up correctly the precision cut lasts for ages.
Per cut they are cheaper per cut than a friction wheel. This is over the maximum life of the blade- not if you screw it up!
As noted ,with a swivel head there s no need to move the material. Can be hard in a packed shed with a non swivel jobbie.
Cons
The new blades need to be run in.
Blades are specialist made-generally need to come from a saw shop. Not off the shelf like Bunnings.
If you have a range of different cut thicknesses you may need different blades with different TPIs.
The saw has a fairly big footprint-takes up some room.
As takai said ,stands are crap.Too short for most people and p/poor design.Usually you need to make a proper one.
Grahame
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30th Apr 2020, 11:42 PM #4Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
As Grahame mentioned, cutting at 10pm is possible, just need to place something soft under the saw, so that when the metal lands on the floor it doesn't make a sound.
DAMHIKT at 3.00AM!!!!!! Get the BS5A it's far superior, as others have mentioned, the pressed metal frame is RUBBISH.
I'm constantly cutting 45 and 90 degree cuts, to the point it became a nightmare to reset, so I made a 45 degree angle block out of 50 X 5 FMS, saves a lot of time.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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1st May 2020, 12:01 AM #5
Hi Andrew,
I got hold of a second hand 6X4 Identical to the BS4 and did a refurbishment job on it ! Its a very nice bandsaw.
However the tin stand is total rubbish. This is a link to the write up I did and also the new stand.
https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t203...hlight=bandsaw
See Page 5, Post 73.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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1st May 2020, 01:17 AM #6
I have the 100x115mm standard type bandsaw and have been completely happy with it. Over the years I reinforced the stand and added coolant.
Like others have said you have to set the vice for angles and if your machine is in a spot against the wall between things you will have to rotate the machine to suit the angle your cutting for longer lengths. I use mine mostly for shorter pieces for the lathe or mill so it's fine, if I'm doing a bigger project I wheel it outside to give me room.
My son bought the swivel one and seems happy with it, I haven't used it so can't comment.Using Tapatalk
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1st May 2020, 10:52 AM #7Golden Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2018
- Location
- Drouin Vic
- Posts
- 634
If you are going to have to make a new stand for your saw, why not consider incorporating a swivel system into the stand? I agree with others that a swivel system is very worthwhile, I have an old dinosaur of a bandsaw (dynosaw?) and love the quietness and ability to do other stuff while it cuts, but angle cuts are a problem unless starting from short lengths. I mounted my abrasive cutoff saw to one of the shed columns and incorporated a swivel in the mounting system, angle cuts are a breeze there, the material stays parallel to the wall. Would be great to have the same on the bandsaw. I think I just found another future project...
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1st May 2020, 04:30 PM #8
A little rush of excrement to the brain,here.
If a bandsaw stand has to made, what features should be incorporated in the new fabricated stand.
I'll start with some I used but i am sure the heaps of our bandsaw owners have more features that could be incorporated in the build.
* From post above Pete O,s suggestion, swivel capability built into the frame.
* Correct height.I made mine using the rule for anvil stands. My knuckles on the work deck. Less aching backs from stooping.
* A longer frame length than original (under the motor) to stop those saw wrecking back flips possible from the original model frame.
* Locking Swivel castors on each leg. It then easily maneuvers into a tight space when not in use.
* Scrap/cutoff catch drawer.
* Hooks /cleats (on a leg) for the extension to keep the plug off the concrete which is often wet.
For our new potential band saw owner, Ok guys what extra features did you build in to your band saw stands?
Grahame
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1st May 2020, 06:51 PM #9Member: Blue and white apron brigade
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 7,189
A larger coolant lube trip tray.
IMG_6158.jpg
With space for Hydraulic down control
IMG_1904.jpg
And somewhere to put a coolant/lube system
Complete.jpg
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2nd May 2020, 10:31 AM #10Banned
- Join Date
- Mar 2020
- Location
- Sa
- Posts
- 24
I have the BS5S which I'm very happy with, the swivelling head was the main consideration when I purchased it, but geez, they've gone up in price, I paid $650 when I bought mine. Why not see if you can find a second hand one.
I didn't think much of the bolt together stand or it's low height, but, considering the work involved in building a new one, I didn't see the point. The BS5s has a lip around the outside periphery which makes it easy to install a coolant system which I highly recommend. I just drilled a hole in the table, turned up a drain on the lathe and hooked up a cheap pump, coolant is contained in a five litre petrol container. I also cut up a rubber gasket and sandwitched it between the small plate above the guide bearings and another I made, this wipes the blade and stops the coolant travelling along the blade and out the back, to be deposited on the floor. I also installed an angle iron bracket behind the switch box to stop it leaking in that area. As a result, I have a coolant free floor.
I also installed four wheels on the legs so I can move it around to clean underneath and move it forward for longer stock. The wheels are at a slight angle but it rolls well.
Once you've squared up the cuts a few times, it's quite easy and quick. Blades are readily available at Hafco and probably your local machine shop.
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