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  1. #61
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    Nov 2008
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    Neat Ian.

    Peter had some very thin cut off discs amongst his collection of grinding wheels. I made the bore of my spanner deep enough to accommodate the additional exposed spindle thread when a thin disc is mounted.

    I was very tempted to set the 1 up for some cylindrical grinding this afternoon. I wanted to finish a 55mm length of 4140 to as close as I could get to 15mm. Piked out and resorted to wet and dry wrapped around a file. Another time.

    Bob.

  2. #62
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    Feb 2012
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    Willunga
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    Bob

    It probably wouldn't have the reach to tighten that far as it stands but I could always put it back in the lathe and bore it a little deeper at need.

    Regards

    Ian

  3. #63
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    Oct 2011
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    Burnie/ Adelaide
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    Or make up a spacer (with appropriate recesses) to go under the existing nut when clamping the disc.
    (Someone had tried that with my surface grinder although without the recesses so it did not work all that well)

    Michael

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    ex Perth, now Mittagong
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    72

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    Bob,

    A wise move. It is pretty difficult to remove what can be done manually with wet & dry, on a cylindrical grinder, let alone a T&C grinder. You may recall that I had a Myford cylindrical grinder, which had a counterweighted grinding head with in-feed of tenth of a tenth. With coolant and a few thousandth to remove very accurate dimensioning was the norm.

    I did do some cylindrical work on the Hercus before the Myford turned up. With a bit of weight hanging from the front of the table to give the lead-screw something to bite on and a 1/10th clock it was still tricky. I found that without coolant on small diameter pieces of any length, very fine passes were required.

    All the stars have to line up if you start with only a few tenths to take off!

    Peter

  5. #65
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    Nov 2008
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    Thank you Peter,

    It seemed like a poor alternative to be reaching for the carorundum paper when the grinder was sitting there but I thought I'd probably fool around for an hour or so setting things up and probably cock it up anyway. The part I was making didn't require extreme concentric cylindrical accuracy, it's a component of the Schaublin universal vice's stop assembly and the finish was more an appearance thing. At the end of the day it looks and fits OK.

    Bob.

  6. #66
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    65
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    Here is a sketch of the dresser bracket Ian.

    Let me know if you want a photocopy slipped in the mail. I will probably draw the pulley tomorrow.

    Bob.

    SKMC36015062908080.pdf

    SKMC36015062908010.jpg

  7. #67
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    Feb 2012
    Location
    Willunga
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    Bob, Thanks so much, that isn't a sketch its a work of art! It is very generous of you to take the time to do such a careful job. I had better do a decent job of making it up to do justice to the 'sketch'. In a week or so I will be here on my own for a couple of days and that looks like the perfect project for a couple of days of quality shed time.

    Regards

    Ian

  8. #68
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    Here's the pulley Ian.

    The original is mild steel. The drawing title should read Internal Grinding Attachment. Yellow trace is like tissue paper, you can't make corrections. Sorry.

    Bob.


    SKMC36015062912440.jpg


    SKMC36015062912430.pdf

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Willunga
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    Another wonderful drawing thanks Bob! Interesting that it is made of mild steel, looks like I am on the lookout for a piece of 1" plate or perhaps a hunk of 4" bar might be easier. I wonder if (as it is doing 3K rpm) if it needs to be balanced? Time for some careful thought about how best to machine it up.

    Regards

    Ian

  10. #70
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    Oct 2011
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    Burnie/ Adelaide
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    Ian, I can probably spare you a short piece of 4" (or there abouts) round to make up a pulley.
    As far as balance goes, provided that your machining is concentric it should automatically be in balance. I'd probably make that by boring a hole in the centre and then clamp it up on a mandrel to do the rest.

    Michael

  11. #71
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    Feb 2012
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    Willunga
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    Thanks for your kind offer Michael! I will send you a PM.

    Yes, I thought a mandrell would be the way to go. I have to pull the shaft once more to replace the belts and was wondering about using that as a mandrell?

    Regards

    Ian

  12. #72
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    Oct 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNutter View Post
    I have to pull the shaft once more to replace the belts and was wondering about using that as a mandrel?
    The ideal is something that can be clocked up in the lathe to be dead on concentric that the pulley blank can sit on and emulate the shaft it will run on.
    When you pick up the steel I'll show you what I use so you can see more of what I mean.

    Michael

  13. #73
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    Feb 2012
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    Willunga
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    Bob - this is what I have turned your drawing into, the dimensions changed a little as I had to fabricate it but the heights and the angles are as close to the drawing as I can get it.


    IMG_0325.jpg

    Thanks to Michael G I have the steel to make up the pulley to drive the internal grinding spindle but I think that I will chase up the belt before I have a go at making it up.

    Regards

    Ian

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
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    200

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    Glad you posted that little warning about the retaining screw it is 5/16 square headed bolt screwed in from below, once removed you can easily push the shaft from the outside to the inside where you can catch it.

    My vertical column lifted out really easily. I am surprised how clean it all is in there given my 3A has grit everywhere.

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