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11th Feb 2015, 05:10 PM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
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- 303
Just a bit of a progress report
Ive been cleaning off the years of paint.
It looks as if its been painted 4-5 times with various colours. No pics at the moment, and anyway who wants to see mottly castings waiting for a nice shiny coat of paint.
I'm thinking of dark grey although there's so many options.
Just as an aside, I didn't know how to get the thick paint off, and considered paint remover. Since I could only buy a litre and considering the price, I recalled some high school chemistry and tried a $2.80 can of oven cleaner, (mostly caustic soda) Worked like a charm!! and no half used cans to store or try to dispose of at the dump.
I think I will focus on welding up a stand once i put some paint on the castings.
That way I can work on the bits and gradually assemble the smaller pieces to the castings.
I'm a bit short of big benches for that sort of work, and everything needs to be put away to allow my ever loving wife to put her car away.
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12th Feb 2015, 05:40 PM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
I feel like a kid in an ice cream shop!
What colour to paint it?
The pics online of the originals shows them as shiny black, as does the final coat of paint clinging to the castings.
I'm tempted to do it shiny black, but Ive bought a $3 can of dark metalwork grey at the cheap shop.
Decisions , decisions!!
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13th Feb 2015, 04:49 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
I'm about to venture into unassembling the column (post) to give it a good clean because it seems very sticky.
There are 4 fasteners down the side.
From the top:
1-- grubscrew
2--hex bolt (tapped into a small piece of flat bar)
3--countersunk metal thread screw
4--hex head bolt
I'd appreciate any advice please on a sequence to unassemble it all.
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13th Feb 2015, 05:04 PM #19
Hi Brian,
One of those will be to stop the lead screw from backing out when you turn the handle, maybe thecounter sunkgrub screw? remove that and see if you can wind the lead screw all the way out.
Ray
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13th Feb 2015, 05:12 PM #20Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Hi Brian, I would say that the top grub screw holds the top assembly in place, stopping it from rotating. The 3 lower ones the hex heads hold the block in place while the counter sunk one would be an adjuster to limit backlash, I could stand to be corrected but I'm pretty sure that is what they are for.
I'd remove the hex heads and counter sunk,after lowering the head as far as is will go, (to prevent it slipping down while holding it), then the grub screw at the top which should allow the shaft assembly to be removed, them the spindle assy should come off. You might need to scrape/clean of the sticky stuff to allow the spindle assembly to slide off.
Kryn
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14th Feb 2015, 12:16 AM #21Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
I think it goes like this.
Undo the 4 slot head grub scews around the top of the column.
Remove the collar and screw from the column.
Undo the 2 hex bolts and slot screw, the nut falls* out and then you can slide the spindle off the column
I'm pretty sure the top hex bolt isn't factory(maybe an attempt to stop the spindle rotating so much on the column) .
Stuart
*ok it might need a tap
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14th Feb 2015, 09:27 AM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
Thanks Ray, Kryn and Stewart. Helpful gentlemen as usual.
That should keep me amused over the weekend
regards
Brian
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14th Feb 2015, 12:48 PM #23Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Brian, did it come apart as I'd suggested?
As I've said before, I've a mate that goes to Qld and can pick it up for me, "so I'll take it off your hands" if it becomes to hard.
Just funnin ya. Nice work by the way.
Pity there wasn't a green eyed monster in the smilies "Jealousy".
Kryn
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14th Feb 2015, 04:34 PM #24Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
Well with Kryn's encouragement (read lust), I've got it apart!!
Pic a and c show a brass threaded block which is firmly 'stuck', in the column. (Details in pic b)
It seems to me that this block should slide smoothly in the slot of the column to raise and lower the grinding head, when the screw is turned???
Am I right?
If I'm wrong--what should I do next?
All help gratefully appreciated.
regards
Brian
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14th Feb 2015, 04:45 PM #25Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
It should.
Have you undone the screw that spreads the slit in the nut?
Stuart
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14th Feb 2015, 05:47 PM #26Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Brian,
As Stuart suggested, clean out the crap that is in the first hole from the front, there should be a plug screw in there, possibly with a slotted head, going by the rest of the fasteners. This plug screws unto a tapered hole, allowing the brass block to open/close depending on where the plug is. Removing the plug will/should allow the block to come free, some CRC/WD40 sprayed on it would probably help also.
You are right, that I'm LUSTING after it.
Kryn
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14th Feb 2015, 06:01 PM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
Stu and Kryn,
I will look more closely and clean out some of the crap and then gently 'attack' the screw
Thanks again for your guidance
regarfs
Brian
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15th Feb 2015, 12:38 AM #28
Sorry I was away when you asked....
But I see you almost woked it all out.
Give the block a tap INWARDS with a soft-faced hammer or a block of wood. It should just 'pop' into the column. You can then fish it out or invert the column and it will fall out. The adjustment screw mentioned in the above posts will need to be cleaned and made mobile again for adjustment later on. But you need to get the block into the column to get it out in any case. Just spray some CRC on it and bump it in in the first instance.
PS: what was the crooked piece of metal above the Bronze block - held on by the off centre bolt with the 'N' on it?Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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15th Feb 2015, 10:05 AM #29Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- gold coast
- Posts
- 303
Hi Joe,
Now I know I won't be damaging anything I can do as you suggest.
My concern was that the brass block is really jammed in the slot in the side of the column, and even with the adjustment screw completely removed, it won't move.
Is that 'normal' for it to be so hard to move?? I guess I'm asking how much 'force' should be required to move it up and down.
The 'slot' is smooth and there does not seem to be any 'rubbish' inside, it's just that the brass block fits so tightly.
I have added a pic of the piece of flat bar attached to the hex head metal thread with the 'n'.
"Someone" had added this to 'clamp' the grinding head to the column--by the look of it. I have no idea why. But we all know about that mysterous oriental gentleman (Sum Won) who does these sorts of things.
The workmanship on this 'bit' is pretty ordinary.
Any ideas why it would have been needed, please.
thanks and regards
Brian
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15th Feb 2015, 01:37 PM #30Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Hi Brian, was this block on top of the brass block? If it was, I would say that it was to prevent the brass block from hitting the top of the slot, and damaging it, if the operator was careless.
Kryn
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