Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 16
Thread: Heat proof glue
-
14th Aug 2014, 11:07 AM #1
Heat proof glue
Hi all,
I need to find a suitable glue to glue magnets into slots and fill the slots. I have tried epoxy which works nicely but with the item in use it gets warm and the epoxy starts to stink.
Any suggestions?
Oh, and when i say "heat" i'm talking no more than 150 probably even less.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
14th Aug 2014, 11:41 AM #2Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,898
Silicone compound ("RTV") is sticky and heat resistant, but maybe not rigid enough for this job?
Jordan
-
14th Aug 2014, 12:23 PM #3
Ueee,
You could try a polyurethane glue.
Have a read of this as is says it will tollerate high temps.
http://home.howstuffworks.com/uses-f...-adhesives.htmSteve
Live while you're alive and sleep when you're dead
-
14th Aug 2014, 12:43 PM #4
I've used PU glue to very successfully hold REMs in place in timber, but no idea about the heat aspects. Just have to be mindful about the glue expanding and pushing the magnet out of place but in your application I doubt that would be a problem (coz the REM will stick like the proverbial to the steel)
Regards, FenceFurniture
-
14th Aug 2014, 12:53 PM #5
-
14th Aug 2014, 04:56 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- texas, queensland
- Posts
- 248
what about a JB weld type of product devcon or one of those .
johno'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'
-
14th Aug 2014, 05:02 PM #7Cba
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 68
- Posts
- 1,410
I think that epoxy resin was and is the right choice. However, there are many many very different epoxies. And some do indeed smell much more than others.
As first measure, I would try to cure the glued item in an oven, up to 150C should be fine for most epoxies. Do this once it has initially hardened, as most epoxy glues produce their own heat during curing, and that may lead to overheating and breakdown when added to the heat in the oven.
If that does not help, you may look at some epoxies said to have reduced allergic reaction in people. Safe-t-poxy comes to mind but things may have changed in the past 20 years. A friend of mine was building his own aircraft (a vari Eze) in the garage and after a while he was so sensitized, that even years later he always got a bad rash on his hands just from smelling minute amounts of epoxy. Unfortunately, safe epoxies do cost more. There are also epoxies optimised for high temperatures, but as always as soon as you want/need something specialized prices skyrocket.
By the way, with some epoxies you can control hardness by modifying the binder/hardener ratio (more hardener meaning you get a softer and less brittle end product, yes it is contra intuitive).
-
14th Aug 2014, 06:52 PM #8Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Sydney, NSW
- Posts
- 1,249
Hi,
Loctite 670 or 870 (I can't remember what the number is) is a heat resistant thread glue. May work in your situation. I'll find a bottle tomorrow and have a look.
Ben.
-
14th Aug 2014, 07:02 PM #9
Have a look in the Sika flex site .
I was there one day looking for something else and they had some products
to do with sealing and heat.There maybe what you want in there.
Grahame
-
14th Aug 2014, 07:18 PM #10Golden Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 54
- Posts
- 825
G'day Ewan,
I'm nut sure what your application is or how much time you want to spend on it but one option is to mill your slots oversize in the width then use a soft metal to hammer caulk the magnets in place.
As mentioned earlier, the magnets will more or less hold them selves in the slots, you just need to stop them from moving around too much.
Copper would be more durable but aluminium is probably easier to work.
You will also end up with a pretty inlay like finish too.
Cheers,
Greg.
-
14th Aug 2014, 07:29 PM #11
-
14th Aug 2014, 08:22 PM #12
Most run-of-the-mill epoxies are only good to about 100C.
JB Weld is good to 290 degrees C and would be my recommendation.
-
15th Aug 2014, 12:01 AM #13
Thanks guys,
The item is a permanent magnet chuck, it needs to be steel for longevity and the slots need to be filled so it can be wiped clean and steel dust doesn't gather in the slots.
The JB weld sounds like it will do the trick, i am also casting some hard polyurethane rubber at the moment and might try it.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
15th Aug 2014, 01:46 AM #14Best Regards:
Baron J.
-
15th Aug 2014, 09:11 AM #15.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,459
Hello Ew,
Could you provide a bit more information about the castable hard rubber? I'm toying with the idea of a DIY plug and socket for the Isoma as an alternative to the underwhelming quality of the cheap sockets I thought I could use.
As a kid I used Devcon aluminium putty to build up a damaged area of a magnesium KTM crankcase. It stayed put and coped with the heat. The stuff is machinable.
The JB Weld does sound promising though.
BT