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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
    Posts
    3

    Default Top Hat Installation Info

    Hi Guys
    I am a member of woodworkforums to mostly watch and learn on the wooden boat side of things but have ventured to the "dark side" of metalwork to ask for some advice.

    I am building a freestanding 6m x5m Dutch Gable steel carport which I bought as a kit from a Gold Coast supplier whose advertising blurb said would include a full set of building instructions when they really meant here is a meagre set of engineering drawings and good luck. Nevertheless I completed the steel frame by myself to a pretty good standard and, as was always my intention, I contacted a professional roofer to have him hang the roof sheets and trim to get the best possible finish.

    Long story short is that I can save some more money if I install the metal top hats (Topspan61) myself. My immediate problems are positioning (which I can probably work out from the plans even though no dimensions are given) and cutting mitres on the battens where the hips meet.

    Is it just the same as woodwork - cut the 45 mitre and secure both ends independantly (two perpendicular sds) on the steel purlin ?

    Thanks
    bagman

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Shailer Park, Brisbane
    Posts
    21

    Default

    index.jpg
    ...note the hip battens, usually 150mm centre of hip to outside batten.
    Just substitute metal for the timber ones


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Hi Wolften
    I should have included this plan to show what I am dealing with - the frame is bracketed so that a diagonal purlin sits at each hip and the top hat mitres over these purlins.
    It is a nifty design.
    Cheers
    bagmanIMG.pdf

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,039

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bagman View Post
    .............Is it just the same as woodwork - cut the 45 mitre and secure both ends independantly (two perpendicular sds) on the steel purlin ?

    Thanks
    bagman

    Your mitre won't be bang on 45°. Depending on how good a fit you are after I would be tempted to do a trial with scrap timber to determine the angle. Easier than doing the trig.

    Other than that, put 2 screws at the end of each batten.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tin Can Bay Qld
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks Bob - sounds like good advice to me.

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