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  1. #1
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    Default Toolmakers hammer

    The toolmakers hammer was mentioned somewhere I was reading . I'd not heard of it .

    Apparently a handy thing to own - It is used for marking centres I think ? Mike

  2. #2
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    $100..... I'd want to have a few spots to punch....... but then I'm a tight wad.

    http://www.starrett.com/metrology/pr...Shop-Tools/815

    Stuart

  3. #3
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    You must mean Toolmakers Pin Hammer:
    http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/toolmak...hammer/253674/

  4. #4
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    I wonder how long the magnifying glass will last in the hammer head?
    Tool Makers Hammer.jpg
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #5
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    Default

    This raises an interesting point. How many of you use a hammer for positioning jobs? I use a hammer a lot for positioning jobs on the mill or fitment of parts as I seem to have more control with a gentle tap of a hammer than I do for any other method.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    How many of you use a hammer for positioning jobs? I use a hammer a lot for positioning jobs on the mill or fitment of parts as I seem to have more control with a gentle tap of a hammer than I do for any other method.
    I have a small (soft faced) deadblow hammer that I use for seating parts in my mill vice. A hard mammer can mark parts. Occasionally I will use it if trying to locate things for clamping.

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    The toolmakers hammer was mentioned somewhere I was reading.

    Apparently a handy thing to own - It is used for marking centres I think?
    MEW have a construction article on one at the moment. I think the handy part is that you can check where the centre punch is and then tap it without having to reach around and find another tool. As Joe says, you wonder how long the lens will last in the head. I'd also be concerned that it would get scratched floating around in the tool box. I don't want to have a fitted case for every tool I own.

    In the proper sequence of things you scribe the lines, mark the intersection with a prick punch then deepen these with a centre punch before drilling. Given the lightness of the hammer, I'd suggest that it is only for that light prick punch tap and you use your normal walloping device for the heavier centre punch marking.

    Michael

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    This raises an interesting point. How many of you use a hammer for positioning jobs? I use a hammer a lot for positioning jobs on the mill or fitment of parts as I seem to have more control with a gentle tap of a hammer than I do for any other method.
    I have a small Thor leather faced hammer I use for tapping on drawbars, belting stuff down in the mill vice and general positioning - http://www.thorhammer.com/Hammers/Ra...mmer_id_01-008 so I didn't really need this when I saw it at the newly opened BCF store in Belmont - http://m.bcf.com.au/Product/Supa-Peg...-Orange/338004 IMHO pretty good value if someone was chasing a gentler alternative to a steel faced hammer.

    BT

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    This raises an interesting point. How many of you use a hammer for positioning jobs? I use a hammer a lot for positioning jobs on the mill or fitment of parts as I seem to have more control with a gentle tap of a hammer than I do for any other method.

    I use a 1.5" diameter leather hammer for seating work in the vice and general adjustments. As far as marking centres is concerned I made an optical centre punch which works very well. The hard part of that of course is polishing the slight dome on the top of the 1/2" plexiglass rod.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #9
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    "This is a very practical tool that is just as much at home on a toolmaker’s bench as it is on a businessman’s desk." From this I can only assume that Starrett expec the hammer to spend more time on a desk than in a tool box?

    All I've ever used for prick punching (no smart a*** comments here please. I can hear them already. lol) is a small ball pein. No idea of eh weight but the dia of the flat face is only around 12-15mm
    bollie7

  10. #10
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I have a small (soft faced) deadblow hammer that I use for seating parts in my mill vice. A hard mammer can mark parts. Occasionally I will use it if trying to locate things for clamping.
    I don't have any hard faced Mammers in the shed. They belong with the Pappa's.

    I use a deadblow type hammer (plastic sand filled) for seating things and moving them around on the mill. Also handy for assembly of things that either don't need to be pressed or are of low tolerance....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  11. #11
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    I've never heard of a "toolmakers hammer" I would have thought it might be a small to medium ball pein, maybe something too small to be common for blacksmithing, but too big for jewellers.. that weird looking thing with a magnifier built into the handle doesn't look right for the name.

    I know a couple of hammer collectors, I must ask and see if they know. Just about every trade has it's own unique style of hammer.

    These are supposed to be "Machinst's hammers"



    Generally I'd call these "toolmakers hammers" more so than that magnifying gimmick..

    Ray

    PS for setting up stuff on the mill I've got nylon hammers ( Thor? I think )

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    This raises an interesting point. How many of you use a hammer for positioning jobs? I use a hammer a lot for positioning jobs on the mill or fitment of parts as I seem to have more control with a gentle tap of a hammer than I do for any other method.
    I used to use the nylon side of one of those el cheapo mallets with the unscrewable ends for tapping stuff down in the mill vise, and the dodgy fabricated handle off said vise for rapping the top of the drawbar to release my tooling.

    then a mates dad was clearing out his garage of junk to throw in hard rubbish, and I ended up with, among other useful things, a lead hammer. Looks to be homemade, some kind of mold formed around a piece of steel, but it's excellent for releasing the R8 taper on my mill, and tapping stuff down in the vise. Of course, I'd probably still have to grab my cheap nylon mallet if tapping on a nicely machined aluminium surface...

  13. #13
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    I haven't counted them but I probably have upwards of 20 hammers all told.

    I must now make the confession that not one of them is a real toolmakers hammer.

    I do suspect that Starret sells very few of them. If I feel constrained at all to hammer on a tool, I will do so with a soft faced hammer,a project made for a senior high school metal work shop project.

    It is machined to accept "Thor" brand copper and rawhide inserts.

    Otherwise my hammer collection is devoid of "real" tool makers hammer.

    Sigh!!!!

    Grahame

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    I haven't counted them but I probably have upwards of 20 hammers all told.

    I must now make the confession that not one of them is a real toolmakers hammer.

    I do suspect that Starret sells very few of them. If I feel constrained at all to hammer on a tool, I will do so with a soft faced hammer,a project made for a senior high school metal work shop project.

    It is machined to accept "Thor" brand copper and rawhide inserts.

    Otherwise my hammer collection is devoid of "real" tool makers hammer.

    Sigh!!!!

    Grahame
    Hi Grahame,
    I have been wanting to make a soft face hammer for a while but didn't know which insert faces to choose.

    I see the Thor faces are readily available but I suspect they need to be pressed in.

    Do you have any photos / details of the hammer you made?

    My other thought was to buy faces that have a threaded stud on the end.

    I'd like copper and rawhide ends, but I don't have a press.

    Thx
    J


    Thx
    Jon

  15. #15
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    Hey Jon,

    The inserts were just pressed in,
    The were standard ThOR spares bought off the hook at Mc Ginns in Mackay.They are probably not on the hook in most stores and will likely need to be ordered. I think from memory diam was 30mm but will look for hammer in the shed later to confirm size.They had run out of rawhide ones at the time I made mine, so Iused the copper insert and Aluminium instead of rawhide.

    The secret of a nice heft for hammer was to bore out the guts of the handle. Gives it a nice "strike' A good size vice should substitute for a press.

    Grahame

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