Thread: So Where To Next, The Motor Rewinder?

Congratulations Bob! I think you have.

Now split it, solder three new wires to the new ends and seal it all up again.
Well done!

Oh, and get the other Bob to megger it before closing it all off again....

Originally Posted by rodm

Bob,
I see you have trued up the outside of the motor casing when you parted the end. Do you intend to machine a collar or are you going to turn up a new end and fit somehow?

I don't know how I'm going to tackle it young Rod. Maybe a new end cap or maybe just a sleeve. I needed a reference surface to facilitate alignment hence the turning.

BT

Hi Bob,
Was pondering about knitting the two back together and a sleeve with an internal shoulder the thickness of the parting tool might be a solution. I have those large hollow bar stock remnants and you are welcome to one if this is your path after sorting out the wiring.

Originally Posted by rodm

Hi Bob,
Was pondering about knitting the two back together and a sleeve with an internal shoulder the thickness of the parting tool might be a solution. I have those large hollow bar stock remnants and you are welcome to one if this is your path after sorting out the wiring.

Thank you for your kind offer Rod. I have an appointment with Dr Bob on Friday where a graft to the star wires will hopefully be accomplished. If everything tests positive, I'll start thinking about either a sleeve or a replacement end cap. I do have a suitable slice of aluminium that should suit either option. My intention is to Loctite the bits back together.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Thank you for your kind offer Rod. I have an appointment with Dr Bob on Friday where a graft to the star wires will hopefully be accomplished. If everything tests positive, I'll start thinking about either a sleeve or a replacement end cap. I do have a suitable slice of aluminium that should suit either option. My intention is to Loctite the bits back together.

Bob.

One does not refer to surgeons as Dr. Its Mr Bob.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

One does not refer to surgeons as Dr. Its Mr Bob.

Dean

Cheers Dean,

BTW the tools I use for this are dental and general surgical tools.
Fine tweezers and syringe needles for probing wires and seeking continuity
Haemostats are good for grabbing and locking onto wires in deep nooks and crannies
I have a nice pair of short thick bladed surgical scissors with an (almost right) angled head which are great for cutting motor bindings
I also have a pair of short bladed long handled surgical scissors which are perfect for reaching into a gap and cutting.
I have some scalpel handles somewhere but don't use these

I found most of these dental tools at the rubbish dump about 35 years ago, where a bucket sized pile of ex-Perth-dental hospital dental instruments had been dumped. Can you imagine the "stink" that would ensue if this happened today.? I grabbed most of them, gave a heap away and broke many over the years applying them in ways in which they were definitely not intended. There were some really exotic things amongst them, A beautiful pair of SS needle nose pliers, a pair of SS cir clip spreaders, one of the bigger haemostats even had carbide jaws, and something that looked like a mini-chest spreader. Most of these sat in the bottom of various tool boxes for years and are now unfortunately lost

For threading new coil bindings, as a "needle" I use short length of thin plastic coated multi cored wire. Strip one end, split the core wires into 2 groups, and twist tie these around a loop of binding cord.

Originally Posted by BobL

Cheers Dean,

BTW the tools I use for this are dental and general surgical tools.
Fine tweezers and syringe needles for probing wires and seeking continuity
Haemostats are good for grabbing and locking onto wires in deep nooks and crannies
I have a nice pair of short thick bladed surgical scissors with an (almost right) angled head which are great for cutting motor bindings
I also have a pair of short bladed long handled surgical scissors which are perfect for reaching into a gap and cutting.
I have some scalpel handles somewhere but don't use these

I found most of these dental tools at the rubbish dump about 35 years ago, where a bucket sized pile of ex-Perth-dental hospital dental instruments had been dumped. Can you imagine the "stink" that would ensue if this happened today.? I grabbed most of them, gave a heap away and broke many over the years applying them in ways in which they were definitely not intended. There were some really exotic things amongst them, A beautiful pair of SS needle nose pliers, a pair of SS cir clip spreaders, one of the bigger haemostats even had carbide jaws, and something that looked like a mini-chest spreader. Most of these sat in the bottom of various tool boxes for years and are now unfortunately lost

For threading new coil bindings, as a "needle" I use short length of thin plastic coated multi cored wire. Strip one end, split the core wires into 2 groups, and twist tie these around a loop of binding cord.

That sounds like a great find. I have often wished for tools like that at times, but the cost of them is a bit of an issue. A decent hemostat would be fabulous at times. Always something more important money wise. I mostly use my multi-tool.But then it is always hanging off my belt. I just had a quick look on EPay. I might have a go at a pair.

While we are discussing electrical stuff, I would love it if someone could point me to a pair of crimping pliers for uninsulated terminals. I have been looking for a long time and have not been able to find the right pair. I want ones that will do crimps like you find in car wiring. Due to the cost I have to be sure I get the right ones. I have seen some that seem close but I have not been sure. I have also seen a lot that are way off.

Can you crimp motor wires instead of welding?

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

That sounds like a great find. I have often wished for tools like that at times, but the cost of them is a bit of an issue. A decent hemostat would be fabulous at times. Always something more important money wise. I mostly use my multi-tool.But then it is always hanging off my belt. I just had a quick look on EPay. I might have a go at a pair.

A friend of mine has some cheap chinese haemostats he got off ebay and they are fine for this sort of work.

While we are discussing electrical stuff, I would love it if someone could point me to a pair of crimping pliers for uninsulated terminals. I have been looking for a long time and have not been able to find the right pair. I want ones that will do crimps like you find in car wiring. Due to the cost I have to be sure I get the right ones. I have seen some that seem close but I have not been sure. I have also seen a lot that are way off.

I have a pair of auto electrical crimpers I found in a bargain bin at bunnings that look like these http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1550 , and they are also OK for general work. The other pair I bought at dick smiths many years ago when they were more of an electronic component store are a bit better but if you want a really reliable crimp I'd be looking at something a bit more serious than these

Can you crimp motor wires instead of welding?

I guess you can but I wouldn't just crimp anything you can't get too easily to replace/repair.
If you were going to crimp I'd be using a more reliable crimping tool than an automotive type crimper, maybe like this one
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1546
Or even better, this one
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1547

I bought this set from this seller(you can get the same thing a little cheaper from other sellers).

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/S-G-18960...493a009&_uhb=1

I added 3 cylinder hones and 4 sets of Bondhus allen keys ($36+ a set locally) for $190 posted..... so I figured it was a bargain

Works well, though I'd only have used it a few hundred times.

I prefer the lugs that roll into both the wire and the insulation(though really its likely a bit over the top for what I do)

I thought crimping was a better joint?(though maybe that's "better than solder" not "better than silver solder"?)
I know* earth wires had to use a mechanical joint to steel chassis's.


Stuart

* at least I think I know lol


Stuart

I think this is the kind you are looking for http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161262450928 or http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111040888584
It rolls each half of the uninsulated part of the connector into the centre of the cable.

Originally Posted by BobL

A friend of mine has some cheap chinese haemostats he got off ebay and they are fine for this sort of work.


I have a pair of auto electrical crimpers I found in a bargain bin at bunnings that look like these http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1550 , and they are also OK for general work. The other pair I bought at dick smiths many years ago when they were more of an electronic component store are a bit better but if you want a really reliable crimp I'd be looking at something a bit more serious than these


I guess you can but I wouldn't just crimp anything you can't get too easily to replace/repair.
If you were going to crimp I'd be using a more reliable crimping tool than an automotive type crimper, maybe like this one
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1546
Or even better, this one
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.as...=item&id=T1547

First pic. I have these. I have not found this type of crimp reliable in the past. A long time ago I posted in a thread on the renovators forum about crimping. It got silly, but that is where I got the idea.

Second pic. That is the sort of thing. One of the problems I had when I have been looking is that the pictures I saw were all too small to see exactly what type they were.

Third pic. Nice, but a bit difficult in tight spaces like in motor windings. We have a swaging tool at work which is about 2ft long. Lots of leverage. It would reach in better as the smallest swages go in the front of the jaws.

A number of hemostats are ordered from EPay. Some for me and some for SWMBO.

Dean

Originally Posted by jhovel

I think this is the kind you are looking for http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161262450928 or http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111040888584
It rolls each half of the uninsulated part of the connector into the centre of the cable.

Thanks Joe. That is what I want. Another hit on the bank account!

Stuart

I prefer the lugs that roll into both the wire and the insulation(though really its likely a bit over the top for what I do)

Me too, but how or where do you get the tool for this. I think the ones listed above will do me. I have been soldering wires onto salvaged crimp terminals from car wiring. There is the suggestion (Renovators Forum. Emphatic Insistance would be more like it) that this is not a good idea because of breakdown due to vibration and movement over time. I suggested I was not building a space shuttle. This had no effect. I don't own cars for long enough for this to happen. There was a reference given for a technical document that was so technical that I think even the builders of the space shuttle would have laughed at it.

I don't use that forum anymore. Too many fanatics with one track minds.

This forum strikes again. Thanks guys.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Me too, but how or where do you get the tool for this. I think the ones listed above will do me. I have been soldering wires onto salvaged crimp terminals from car wiring. There is the suggestion (Renovators Forum. Emphatic Insistance would be more like it) that this is not a good idea because of breakdown due to vibration and movement over time. I suggested I was not building a space shuttle. This had no effect. I don't own cars for long enough for this to happen. There was a reference given for a technical document that was so technical that I think even the builders of the space shuttle would have laughed at it.

I don't use that forum anymore. Too many fanatics with one track minds.

This forum strikes again. Thanks guys.

Dean

For some of those crimp tools, you have to look at the shape of the jaws, the ones that roll the crimp on non-insulated type are easy to spot, see the shape of jaws of these...

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...d=343114#Cross

But they won't do you any good with automotive style crimps. You want a decent ratchet style for those.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but those guys are right about soldering terminals.. don't do it.

The 4 sided crimps that BobL linked to are good for bootlace ferrules.

Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

For some of those crimp tools, you have to look at the shape of the jaws, the ones that roll the crimp on non-insulated type are easy to spot, see the shape of jaws of these...

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...d=343114#Cross

But they won't do you any good with automotive style crimps. You want a decent ratchet style for those.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but those guys are right about soldering terminals.. don't do it.

The 4 sided crimps that BobL linked to are good for bootlace ferrules.

Ray

I have been doing it for years and I have never had a problem. The thing is that I am using this method on terminals that are used inside terminal blocks which I also scavenge from cars. The wires get taped up. This means that there is no movement on the joint. I don't generally do it for single connections where the wire can flex. If I had a proper pair of crimping pliers, I wouldn't have to do it.

Is this what you would call a decent ratchet style?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161262450928

If not, what is?

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

I have been doing it for years and I have never had a problem. The thing is that I am using this method on terminals that are used inside terminal blocks which I also scavenge from cars. The wires get taped up. This means that there is no movement on the joint. I don't generally do it for single connections where the wire can flex. If I had a proper pair of crimping pliers, I wouldn't have to do it.

Is this what you would call a decent ratchet style?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161262450928

If not, what is?

No those aren't meant for the automotive style terminals, they are for open type uninsulated connectors. The ones that Stuart linked to have a set of jaws for each type, so maybe they would suit.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/S-G-18960...493a009&_uhb=1

Here's one from SuperCrap.. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...om=40303#Cross

Ray