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  1. #1
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default Anyone have a section roller near the ACT?

    Hi Guys,
    Its a long shot but does anyone have or know someone who has a pipe and section roller in the area?

    I want to make a garden arch from 40 or 50NB gal pipe and sheep yard mesh. I need the pipe rolled though to form the arch. I could pay a fab shop but would rather pay a member or members mate etc.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  2. #2
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    Gee Ueee, you making a bomb shelter with 2" pipe? An old farmers solution was to drive a tractor on a length of 1" then bend it around the rear tyre. I guess the minivan wheel is not going to be up to the job.

    Ken

  3. #3
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Ken,
    The curve will be r1100 and it will have 600 legs below the half circle. It will also be as long as the mesh sheet is wide, 1200 I guess. Set into the top of bessa brick retaining walls either side of the steps going up to our back door. If your gunna build something you may as well make it to last.....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #4
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    Have you tried bending it manually? With that radius you should be able to bend it around a 1m radius former relatively easily I would have thought. I have bent 1-1/2" water pipe to a smaller radius than that by hand.... You just need a long lever - like another bigger piece of pipe or a solid bar to go inside your pipe.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #5
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    Make one. I did, was pretty simple.

    40 or 50 NB pipe is waaaay overkill, 20 NB is quite enough. I've used mine to bend arches as well as all the boat railings, which is what I actually built it for. Now my fruit trees have nice arches over them so the nets drape well and keep the vile life outside.

    Photos should be reasonably self-explanatory if I tell you the parallel flange channel is 150mm across.

    PDW
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  6. #6
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    I hadn't really thought of making one.

    I take it you turn the rollers by putting s bar through the piece of rhs on top of the moving roller?

    It occurs I could just make a T frame and stick it in the press.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I hadn't really thought of making one.

    I take it you turn the rollers by putting s bar through the piece of rhs on top of the moving roller?
    Yeah. A long lever is better - duh. One day I might add a hydraulic drive but that would involve some re-engineering.

    I intended to use threaded rod for the movable wheel but decided half way through it was too much trouble so the porta power got substituted. Works fine. Travel is sufficient to do nearly a tight 180 deg bend.

    Roller centres are PVC because I had it - also acts as the bushing. Idea is to make different size/profile centre sections and keep using the outer sandwich plates. I machined those, next time I need some I'll use weld-on pipe flanges for at least the ones with clearance holes for the bolts, save a lot of machining time.

    The pins are 40NB Sched 80 pipe with a bottom flange welded on then machined. Lock bolts are M16 allthread welded to a suitable piece of steel plate at the bottom.

    As I said it works fine - I'm about to make a lot more curved arches in Sched 20 pipe as the bloody possums have found their way to an apple tree and trashed it. Now it's really war.

    Clamp the whole assembly down to something really heavy and have lots of supports - you have to keep moving them as you bend the pipe. This is a PITA but what else can you do.

    Incidentally it bends 12mm solid and reinforcing rod beautifully. I've made very nice 600mm diameter rings out of scrap just for amusement. Haven't tried anything bigger.

    What's the point of having a machine shop if you don't make stuff at vast expenditure of time, that you could buy off of Ebay instead?

    PDW

  8. #8
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    This has been sitting in the back of my mind for some time now, and a link in another thread lead me to this http://www.speedwerx.com.au/products...&cid=1&Level=1
    Harbor Freight make one similar but for only $170, shame postage would cost so much!

    I think i will make one along these lines rather than the open sided type. The only downside is turning rings becomes difficult as getting them out would be an issue. I was thinking of using some 6004 or 6204 el cheapo ebay bearings for the rollers, or maybe just 2 for the drive roller and bronze in the other 2. I wonder what sort of pressure it will be able to create....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Default

    Another option is you can use a pipe bender if you have access to one. Made a big jump ramp for a mate like that once, bent a 6m length to a fairly large variable radius for it and it worked well. just a bit of trial and error. You just have to do lots of small bends and have a template to work to.

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  11. #11
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    Thanks Snapatap, i don't have a bender either.

    Harty, That is a good idea, and i don't see the forces being to high for my machine either. I think anyway...... I wouldn't do it on what i'm pretty sure is a Schaublin 53 though....
    I did see a post on PM with someone doing the same on a Bridgeport only flat like PDW does it.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #12
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    Well i spent some time today and turned up the 3 rollers. This meant making a concave attachment for my ball turner and mounting it on the Antrac. And making a 1" tapered mandrel, but geez thats easy with a tta.
    Anyway, they turned out rather well, except the first one which has the remnants of my rouging out V.

    DSCN2430 (Large).jpgDSCN2437 (Large).jpgDSCN2440 (Large).jpg

    I pressed, bored and reamed some bronze into the 2 idler (?) rollers

    DSCN2441 (Large).jpg

    I had these chunks of cast in one of my bins and with a 3/4" slot in each they made nice holders for the rollers

    DSCN2444 (Large).jpg

    With the drive roller on an arbor (no keyway, i just sandwiched it between keyed spacers) took to the 1" pipe, but soon ran into a problem....the roof! Other than that the mill worked really well, since she has a brake stopping on the mark was easy.

    DSCN2442 (Large).jpgDSCN2445 (Large).jpg

    Turns out i simply don't have enough head space to do it, so i have fished out some 250mm wide C section and some angle and will be making a hand driven one.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #13
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    Nice work Ewan, that's the trouble with a shed, it's never big enough.
    Could you work out a way to do it on the flat,I know turn the mill on it's end.
    Kryn

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    Your not wrong Kryn!
    I could set it up horizontal but there are so many things in the way i'd rather not move....

    Anyway, the roller is getting there, just need to make an adjusting screw. The drive roller is simply a press fit on its shaft (which is slightly tapered), its got close to .002" interference at the fat end so it should not slip. Actually i think it was a bit much as i needed all the press could give me. I really wonder just how close to 20T the jack is....

    Ew
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    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Maybe you could use the vertical head instead to hold the driven roller?
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

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