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20th Dec 2013, 09:49 PM #61
I have never had a problem with my base getting any twist, mine would be lucky to get any twist to be honest.
Check the hinge point as I have heard of a few guys having problems with wear there.
DaveUsing Tapatalk
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20th Dec 2013, 10:12 PM #62
I agree with Dave on this one. My base is rigid. No flex at all. I have replaced the stand with a higher stronger one. Mounting on to this made no difference.
Dean
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21st Dec 2013, 08:51 AM #63Most Valued Member
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21st Dec 2013, 01:29 PM #64Member
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Rob, I would be amazed if you got that much twist in the base. It is solid cast. I suggest there is a problem elsewhere. I certainly can't repeat that in mine. Remember there is tension on one side of the arm. That may be hiding wear. Back that tension off and check again for wear.
Regards,
John.
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21st Dec 2013, 01:54 PM #65
According to the Grizzly manual for the GO622 4 x 6 metal cutting band saw
The FPM figures are
for:
Tool steel,stainless and bearing bronze - 24 TPI at 78 FPM
Mild steel ,hard brass and bronze - 18 TPI at 108 FPM
Soft Brass, Aluminium and other light metals 14 TPI at 180 FPM
It seems as though its hard to obtain a Taiwanese 4 x 6 horizontal bandsaw (Prefereably Rong Fu ) Band Saw at the moment.My Google searches are not showing any. I bought my saw through a dealer specifically because he carried Taiwanese 4 x 6 bandsaws.When I ordered he said he would get one through another dealer as he did not have a bandsaw in stock. Little did I know that the dealer was to be H & F.
The saw I received is a H7F BOO2 BS4A the cheap and nasty clone. If you compare the two there's small differences such as hex head bolts substituted for threaded knobs.The grizzly manual shows a 3/4 horse motor and a idler wheel with two 6202zz bearings against a bushed wheel ( no oil ways) for the BOO2 model.The grizzly model shows a lock pin to lock the arm to the body, something you may have found handy, Rob.
I had a look at the possibility of boring out the wheel for a 6202 bearing but the wheel hub averages 38mm diameter while the bearing OD is 35mm- not enough metal there .
I am considering either making a steel wheel or buying one ex Grizzly.
Grahame
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21st Dec 2013, 05:40 PM #66Most Valued Member
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I had a good play with the two roller guides today and particularly the blade vertical alignment.
I got that pretty right and it's now cutting with very little run out.
I probably stuffed up with the bed twist factor. I couldn't repeat it today, so it must have been my error - got a bit carried away on that one.
I've taken those poxy wheels off, and I have a set of good quality, larger, ball bearing metal/rubber wheels on a track about twice as wide - so I'm installing them for now.
With the standard wheels, it tries to tip over every time you move it. Hopeless set up. Probably why you see so many with the belt drive cover broken or gone awol.
This will be way better.
Grahame it sounds like the Rong Fu (that name breaks me up) is a highly desirable piece of equipment Could have fooled me.
I used it to cut some steel for the wheels, and it was Soooooooo easy and fast.
Grahame if yours is going Ok, I'd just use it until it craps out and fix it then. It could go OK for decades.
Too many jobs and not enough time.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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21st Dec 2013, 05:56 PM #67Most Valued Member
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Here's the wheel set I'm in the process of fitting.
Comes level with the end of the motor (cross ways).
It will bolt to the existing steel angle iron frame the white bowl is sitting on - same as the originals.
rf wheels.jpg
I had two sets of these wheels from a trolley I scrounged, and I used one set on my generator trolley.
It pays to never throw out even the junkiest of junk - LOL.
I actually had some right angle rib gusseted cast iron which would have been perfect for a vise jaw, and yep, last trip to the scrap man it got tossed in the load, after having it behind the shed for over 25 years, and never looked like using it - grrrr
Not the first time that's happened.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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21st Dec 2013, 06:32 PM #68Most Valued Member
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Hit it with a hammer
Grahame I read through the Grizzly G0622 manual and the locking pin for the arm, and also for the arm safety stop are both good ideas.
I may incorporate something later for those.
I particularly like this section in the manual where they advise on making the arm safety stop fit correctly:
" Note:
To ensure the safety bracket fits securely in the notch on the body frame, the
safety bracket may need to be slightly "modified" with a hammer or other appropriate
implement to fit securely."
The worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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22nd Dec 2013, 07:50 AM #69
Rong Fu is well known for Bandsaws and Mills for years back.It was never the very best but always better the the majority of Chinese stuff.
The stands were never real flash but the rest of the machine is much better made than some of the clones.
Mine wouldn't of done more than 10 cuts including the test cuts to get it cutting square but its already cut a track in the cover plate where it returns around the idler wheel. I was chasing a full coil of bi metal 13mm x 18 TPI blade (30 mtrs) but based up the UK prices its around $700 Au
Amazon have some of the single blades at good prices and offering free postage on them so it looks I'll go thataway.
Apart from a new stand ,I"ll need to sort out the motor pivot as it won't throw forward enough to easily fit the belt- the pulley shaft currently touches the cover as the belt has to be stretched over the pulleys
Grahame
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22nd Dec 2013, 08:40 AM #70
Hi Rob.
Have you had a look thru this thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ba...update-139691/. Lots of pictures in there and some good ideas.
I made up 2 jaws from 75mm angle for my saw and they have been working fine. Both are clamping jaws, one extends right up to the blade and the other one has a bit more clearance for general use. I did not add any bracing. I have also made it possible to move the fixed jaw back a bit to allow bigger material to fit in. I think I can get 180mm stock into the saw.
Dean
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22nd Dec 2013, 09:04 AM #71Most Valued Member
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Thanks for the link Dean - really good stuff there. I will use some of those ideas.
It seems like I am just about the only guy in the forum that never had one of these things
The stand is a bit tinny, but with a bit of bracing and some better wheels it will do for now.
I just want to get this thing operational so I can use it to get some other jobs out of the way.
Seems like most people think these little saws are better than sliced bread.
Cheers
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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22nd Dec 2013, 09:39 AM #72
Yeah once you own one you wonder why you never bought one sooner.
I found just tying the legs together at the bottom with angle strengthened it up.
DaveUsing Tapatalk
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1st Jan 2014, 11:52 AM #73Most Valued Member
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Rong Fu up and running
Hi all,
I hope you all have a happy new year.
Well the Rong Fu is now fully operational. I had to do a bit to get it up to scratch for my $85 outlay:
- sleeve the worn spindle and and rebush the pulley for the idler pulley,
- make up the movable vise nut (this has a 5/8" LH Acme thread). I knocked up a single point boring bar with the mighty Bullfinch to do this,
- make up the missing vise jaw (pretty in blue),
- fit new 14/18 bimetal blade.
and in addition I fitted:
- 1 HP motor to replace the poxy 1/3 HP,
- swing arm lock down catch,
- zero point setting screw block,
- knurled nut for the movable vise jaw,
- wider track wheels.
Also got the blade vertical alignment spot on and it cuts as near as spot on to 90 on both planes as I would want.
I'm now quite happy with it.
Here's a photo of the finished job.
rf fin.jpg
It's now just a matter of making a shelf to put my catch tray on (seen below - top off of a water softener unit).
It works a treat.
Cheers
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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1st Jan 2014, 07:45 PM #74Most Valued Member
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Hi Rob and a Happy new Year to you. I made a Y shaped catch tray/funnel from some 50mm RHS with one side cut off (made into a U) with the length from just behind of the switch to the lock mechanism with a 50mm square outlet to drop swarf/filings into a 5litre paint tin, as it makes one hell of a mess with out it
Regards
Kryn
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1st Jan 2014, 08:36 PM #75
You shouldn't have painted the jaws Rob. No good. Now you will have to do the rest to match!
My saw does not have a fixed jaw angle stop on it. I have been meaning to do something because I rarely move it from 90 deg. I think I will copy yours.
DeanLast edited by Oldneweng; 1st Jan 2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Clarification
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