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  1. #61
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    I have never had a problem with my base getting any twist, mine would be lucky to get any twist to be honest.
    Check the hinge point as I have heard of a few guys having problems with wear there.

    Dave
    Using Tapatalk

  2. #62
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    I agree with Dave on this one. My base is rigid. No flex at all. I have replaced the stand with a higher stronger one. Mounting on to this made no difference.

    Dean

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I agree with Dave on this one. My base is rigid. No flex at all. I have replaced the stand with a higher stronger one. Mounting on to this made no difference.

    Dean
    There's no wear in the swing arm pivots.

    I can definitely see about 1 mm variation in vertical blade travel v's cutting base, by loading each leg at the wind handle end differently.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  4. #64
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    Jun 2010
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    Wimmera
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    There's no wear in the swing arm pivots.

    I can definitely see about 1 mm variation in vertical blade travel v's cutting base, by loading each leg at the wind handle end differently.

    Rob
    Rob, I would be amazed if you got that much twist in the base. It is solid cast. I suggest there is a problem elsewhere. I certainly can't repeat that in mine. Remember there is tension on one side of the arm. That may be hiding wear. Back that tension off and check again for wear.

    Regards,

    John.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    Thanks for all the feedback guys.

    The picture I really wanted is how the threaded shaft attaches to the movable vise jaw, under the bed.

    Does it screw into a pivot of some sort to allow the vise to turn?

    Regarding the motor, I may try it first as is. I have a 1 HP motor under the bench doing nothing.

    I will see how that pulley is mounted Grahame.

    PS What speed do you run these at with a coarse and fine blade ?

    Cheers

    Rob

    According to the Grizzly manual for the GO622 4 x 6 metal cutting band saw

    The FPM figures are
    for:

    Tool steel,stainless and bearing bronze - 24 TPI at 78 FPM

    Mild steel ,hard brass and bronze - 18 TPI at 108 FPM

    Soft Brass, Aluminium and other light metals 14 TPI at 180 FPM

    It seems as though its hard to obtain a Taiwanese 4 x 6 horizontal bandsaw (Prefereably Rong Fu ) Band Saw at the moment.My Google searches are not showing any. I bought my saw through a dealer specifically because he carried Taiwanese 4 x 6 bandsaws.When I ordered he said he would get one through another dealer as he did not have a bandsaw in stock. Little did I know that the dealer was to be H & F.

    The saw I received is a H7F BOO2 BS4A the cheap and nasty clone. If you compare the two there's small differences such as hex head bolts substituted for threaded knobs.The grizzly manual shows a 3/4 horse motor and a idler wheel with two 6202zz bearings against a bushed wheel ( no oil ways) for the BOO2 model.The grizzly model shows a lock pin to lock the arm to the body, something you may have found handy, Rob.

    I had a look at the possibility of boring out the wheel for a 6202 bearing but the wheel hub averages 38mm diameter while the bearing OD is 35mm- not enough metal there .
    I am considering either making a steel wheel or buying one ex Grizzly.


    Grahame

  6. #66
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    I had a good play with the two roller guides today and particularly the blade vertical alignment.

    I got that pretty right and it's now cutting with very little run out.

    I probably stuffed up with the bed twist factor. I couldn't repeat it today, so it must have been my error - got a bit carried away on that one.

    I've taken those poxy wheels off, and I have a set of good quality, larger, ball bearing metal/rubber wheels on a track about twice as wide - so I'm installing them for now.

    With the standard wheels, it tries to tip over every time you move it. Hopeless set up. Probably why you see so many with the belt drive cover broken or gone awol.

    This will be way better.

    Grahame it sounds like the Rong Fu (that name breaks me up) is a highly desirable piece of equipment Could have fooled me.

    I used it to cut some steel for the wheels, and it was Soooooooo easy and fast.

    Grahame if yours is going Ok, I'd just use it until it craps out and fix it then. It could go OK for decades.

    Too many jobs and not enough time.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  7. #67
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    Here's the wheel set I'm in the process of fitting.

    Comes level with the end of the motor (cross ways).

    It will bolt to the existing steel angle iron frame the white bowl is sitting on - same as the originals.

    rf wheels.jpg

    I had two sets of these wheels from a trolley I scrounged, and I used one set on my generator trolley.

    It pays to never throw out even the junkiest of junk - LOL.

    I actually had some right angle rib gusseted cast iron which would have been perfect for a vise jaw, and yep, last trip to the scrap man it got tossed in the load, after having it behind the shed for over 25 years, and never looked like using it - grrrr

    Not the first time that's happened.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  8. #68
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    Default Hit it with a hammer

    Grahame I read through the Grizzly G0622 manual and the locking pin for the arm, and also for the arm safety stop are both good ideas.

    I may incorporate something later for those.

    I particularly like this section in the manual where they advise on making the arm safety stop fit correctly:

    " Note:

    To ensure the safety bracket fits securely in the notch on the body frame, the

    safety bracket may need to be slightly "modified" with a hammer or other appropriate

    implement to fit securely."




    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  9. #69
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post

    Grahame it sounds like the Rong Fu (that name breaks me up) is a highly desirable piece of equipment

    Rob
    Rong Fu is well known for Bandsaws and Mills for years back.It was never the very best but always better the the majority of Chinese stuff.
    The stands were never real flash but the rest of the machine is much better made than some of the clones.

    Mine wouldn't of done more than 10 cuts including the test cuts to get it cutting square but its already cut a track in the cover plate where it returns around the idler wheel. I was chasing a full coil of bi metal 13mm x 18 TPI blade (30 mtrs) but based up the UK prices its around $700 Au
    Amazon have some of the single blades at good prices and offering free postage on them so it looks I'll go thataway.

    Apart from a new stand ,I"ll need to sort out the motor pivot as it won't throw forward enough to easily fit the belt- the pulley shaft currently touches the cover as the belt has to be stretched over the pulleys



    Grahame

  10. #70
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    Hi Rob.

    Have you had a look thru this thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ba...update-139691/. Lots of pictures in there and some good ideas.

    I made up 2 jaws from 75mm angle for my saw and they have been working fine. Both are clamping jaws, one extends right up to the blade and the other one has a bit more clearance for general use. I did not add any bracing. I have also made it possible to move the fixed jaw back a bit to allow bigger material to fit in. I think I can get 180mm stock into the saw.

    Dean

  11. #71
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    Thanks for the link Dean - really good stuff there. I will use some of those ideas.

    It seems like I am just about the only guy in the forum that never had one of these things

    The stand is a bit tinny, but with a bit of bracing and some better wheels it will do for now.

    I just want to get this thing operational so I can use it to get some other jobs out of the way.

    Seems like most people think these little saws are better than sliced bread.

    Cheers

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  12. #72
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    Yeah once you own one you wonder why you never bought one sooner.

    I found just tying the legs together at the bottom with angle strengthened it up.

    Dave
    Using Tapatalk

  13. #73
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    Default Rong Fu up and running

    Hi all,

    I hope you all have a happy new year.

    Well the Rong Fu is now fully operational. I had to do a bit to get it up to scratch for my $85 outlay:

    - sleeve the worn spindle and and rebush the pulley for the idler pulley,
    - make up the movable vise nut (this has a 5/8" LH Acme thread). I knocked up a single point boring bar with the mighty Bullfinch to do this,
    - make up the missing vise jaw (pretty in blue),
    - fit new 14/18 bimetal blade.

    and in addition I fitted:

    - 1 HP motor to replace the poxy 1/3 HP,
    - swing arm lock down catch,
    - zero point setting screw block,
    - knurled nut for the movable vise jaw,
    - wider track wheels.

    Also got the blade vertical alignment spot on and it cuts as near as spot on to 90 on both planes as I would want.

    I'm now quite happy with it.

    Here's a photo of the finished job.

    rf fin.jpg

    It's now just a matter of making a shelf to put my catch tray on (seen below - top off of a water softener unit).

    It works a treat.

    Cheers

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  14. #74
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Hi Rob and a Happy new Year to you. I made a Y shaped catch tray/funnel from some 50mm RHS with one side cut off (made into a U) with the length from just behind of the switch to the lock mechanism with a 50mm square outlet to drop swarf/filings into a 5litre paint tin, as it makes one hell of a mess with out it
    Regards
    Kryn

  15. #75
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    You shouldn't have painted the jaws Rob. No good. Now you will have to do the rest to match!

    My saw does not have a fixed jaw angle stop on it. I have been meaning to do something because I rarely move it from 90 deg. I think I will copy yours.

    Dean
    Last edited by Oldneweng; 1st Jan 2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Clarification

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