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Thread: A clutch for the Douglas Shaper
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26th Mar 2013, 06:27 AM #1Most Valued Member
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A clutch for the Douglas Shaper
A little while ago I had an actual project to do on my Douglas shaper and found it a right pain to try and time the on/off switch at just the right moment so the ram ended up in the back most position. I had a clutched motor ready to go sitting on the floor of the shed and all that was needed was the fitting thereof. I had a moment yesterday and decided to fit it. This involved welding a mounting plate to the front of the original Douglas plate in the vertical position. The ram cleared the motor no worries. All that was involved was marking out and drilling, tapping the holes to suit the motor mounts (just in case I needed to put lock nuts on the motor mount bolts as they have rubber inserts in the motor) and welding the plate in the correct position to bring the two pulleys in line. Next I needed to rig up a clutch mechanism. I used the existing tierod and extended the existing clutch lever to bring it past the end of the motor. A piece of angle iron was also welded to the motor mounting plate to give me a platform for the rest of the mechanism. At this point I will let the pictures tell the story.
Just remember that it hasn't been 'Bobbed' yet. For those of you that don't know what that means, 'Bobbed', means bringing it up to a standard that would make everyone envious of your work.
I still have to make a ball turning tool for the ball at the end of the lever and replace the socket headed cap screw with a grub screw which means that I will have to put an stop in to arrest the over centre movement but as a 'suck it and see' project it should be ok.
Phil
ps I took a short video of it in action which is uploading so I will put in a link later
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26th Mar 2013, 07:08 AM #2Most Valued Member
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And here is the movie.
I still haven't learnt to hold my phone on it's side and turn the radio off before shooting
Phil
Clutch for the Douglas shaper - YouTube
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26th Mar 2013, 09:06 AM #3Most Valued Member
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26th Mar 2013, 09:06 AM #4Mechanical Butcher
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Is the motor/clutch from an industrial sewing machine? It looks like it works very well in this application.
Jordan
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26th Mar 2013, 10:05 AM #5Most Valued Member
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Hi Phil,
Nice work.
Is there a brake on that motor or did the shaper always stop that fast?
Stuart
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26th Mar 2013, 10:16 AM #6
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26th Mar 2013, 12:47 PM #7Most Valued Member
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A clutch for the Douglas Shaper
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26th Mar 2013, 12:49 PM #8Most Valued Member
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26th Mar 2013, 02:06 PM #9Mechanical Butcher
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I have a Hercus 270, which I think was the final version of the Douglas shaper. It doesn't have a clutch, but a jog switch instead.
Not tried it yet, but I'm hoping it has good control of the stop position. Also, will it work if converted to single phase?
Jordan
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26th Mar 2013, 07:31 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Hi Mike,
One thing my shaper doesn't get is stress
It is a sewing machine motor and you say they have cork faced discs. Would you know if they are easy to service as I can get clutch discs of differing sizes for tractor PTO shafts and if need be I could look at changing for one of these should the need arise.
Phil
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26th Mar 2013, 08:41 PM #11
clutch
Hi Phil
Well , you can try it out as it is right now.. and see how long the clutch lasts for don't change anything until it actually shows signs of playing up .
Cork clutches were commonly used in automobiles many years ago... but they ran in oil I think
I like the idea you have there, and old sewing machine motors should be cheap to buy and easy to find .
Mike
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26th Mar 2013, 09:01 PM #12Most Valued Member
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A clutch for the Douglas Shaper
Hi Mike,
I'll leave it as is of course. It took me long enough to get it to this stage lol. The bloke I got it off had four more to choose from. They came with an on off switch and an outlet on the back of the motor for a light. It says 12 volt but only read 7 when I put a meter on it. Is that normal?
Phil
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26th Mar 2013, 09:42 PM #13
Hi Phil,
Good job on the new motor and clutch. I like the brake....the Queen can float around half a stroke after you disengage (depends on the gear and stroke length).....its a bit of a guessing game as to when to disengage to get the tool at the spot you want. And there is no cranking by hand to position it.....
If the cork fails then leather is also an option, though the only examples i have seen have been leather on timber in a cone clutch. The old Little giant power hammers had leather clutches i think.....
The 7v could be right depending on whether its a transformer or switchmode driver. You really need to put a load on it and then test again.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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26th Mar 2013, 09:48 PM #14Most Valued Member
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Hi Ewan,
Have you pushed on the lever once you've disengaged the clutch?
Stuart
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26th Mar 2013, 09:54 PM #15
No pushing just re-engages it....
Yes i have pulled on the lever, it has no brake, unlike the one on the LeBlond. (identical clutch-but with brake)1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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