Thread: Anti Pullout Fixing - An Idea Maybe?

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I reckon I can pull the top fixings in to behind the semi circular part of the table mount.

Sounds good. Unfortunately the PM thread did not make clear the thickness or material used by the the original poster (looks steel-like to me but maybe it's Al). I'm not pushing steel - just following the idea through - and I seem to remember that steel in the form of ground flat stock (gauge plate) is annealed and supplied very flat, but probably more expensive than tooling plate, and certainly harder to machine.

Bill

Some shots of the table mount sans table. There is sufficient room behind the mount to accommodate the 18mm deep nuts. I will have to make new power feed stops. Schaublin use cam locks in the stops. Because front access will not be possible a simple cap screw from the bottom will serve to lock the stop. I might be lucky and be able to drop the table by 50mm and still maintain clearance for the power feed joystick. Deckels with their joystick rear of the table, have an advantage over their Swiss cousin. And Stu, rotation on the Y will not be hindered.

BT

How's this look for rigidity?

Hi BT,
Why slots?
I can see it would make things easier if you wanted to take the table and adaptor off in one piece. But would you want to?
Being the klutz I'd be worried that the adaptor would fall off two bolts at one end when sliding the table along the longitudinal slide. Now I guess the alignment fixtures would stop it falling.........
Maybe a hole at the bottom and a slot at the top?*

Stuart

*edit, not sure I like this idea. Wouldnt the table be trying to twist the bolt out of the longitudinal slide? Much prefer holes at the top.

Keep in the back of your mind that the table mount is reasonably heavy....... with holes I would have to slide the .... forget that.

The aluminium plate is bolted onto the longitudinal slide. Then the table mount is slid onto the anti pull out studs sticking out like little stiffies. Easy peasy.

The slots have been rissoled. Good thinking Stu.

BT

That looks good, and very neat.

Even better with holes as suggested by Stuart, and I like the 28mm dia washers.

Given that you have gone to holes (so to speak) would it be too much to suggest an extra bolt in the middle at the top to really stitch it up? (I know - belt and braces - that's me). Perhaps that would be a back up option in case one of those uber-sensitive gauges of yours detects an Angstrom of added flex in the system.

Also, do you need to carve a slot all the way across the back of the plate for the alignment keys, or could you cut local slots? If you are fitting the plate first, then the milling table, there may not be an issue of damage from contact with the alignment keys as previously discussed. The keys seem to have a fair bit of contact area.

Bill

Originally Posted by WCD

That looks good, and very neat.

Even better with holes as suggested by Stuart, and I like the 28mm dia washers.

Given that you have gone to holes (so to speak) would it be too much to suggest an extra bolt in the middle at the top to really stitch it up? (I know - belt and braces - that's me). Perhaps that would be a back up option in case one of those uber-sensitive gauges of yours detects an Angstrom of added flex in the system.

Also, do you need to carve a slot all the way across the back of the plate for the alignment keys, or could you cut local slots? If you are fitting the plate first, then the milling table, there may not be an issue of damage from contact with the alignment keys as previously discussed. The keys seem to have a fair bit of contact area.

Bill

The 28mm washer is simply a replication of the Swiss original Bill. Big like the oversize nuts.

An additional centre located fixing makes good sense now that the alumimium plate is hole mounted. if flex was going to rear its ugly head it would have to be between the top two fixings.

The slots would be only at the key locations, otherwise I might as well write "fold here" on the plate.

I will need to make a new pair of alignment keys and mount them in shallow locating recesses on the slide side of the plate. I had thought of complicating things by making these keys with a wider base, tee like, to prevent rotation, but if the mounting of the plate to the slide is done with care and there are five M12 fixings securing the plate, I don't think rotation will eventuate. Fingers crossed.

I had to look up Angstrom. One ten thousandth of a micron. I'd say that's a lot less than FA.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

An additional centre located fixing makes good sense now that the alumimium plate is hole mounted. if flex was going to rear its ugly head it would have to be between the top two fixings.

Are you going to be able to loosen/tighten it with the table in place?* (Surely that one will have to be a C/sink? lol)

Stuart

* I have no idea how often you would want to move the table along the longitudinal slide

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Are you going to be able to loosen/tighten it with the table in place?* (Surely that one will have to be a C/sink? lol)

Stuart

* I have no idea how often you would want to move the table along the longitudinal slide

I will have a look at that tonight Stu. Maybe a spezial shallow nut and a non offset ring spanner. If I was to use countersunk fixings I would need to come up with a different tee nut. The slot is 12mm which would normally suit a 10mm tee nut. I like the M12 tee bolt idea more.

I have slid the table along the slide on a few occasions.

BT