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Thread: A Harold Hall dividing head
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17th Jun 2012, 12:14 AM #1
A Harold Hall dividing head
Some time ago I asked about how to get some gears for my facet machine and had a bit of help and then spent some time filing a 40 tooth cog by hand with a 3 corner file. Once finished I thought b*gger that for fun and started looking for a dividing head or RT. Too dear for the pension so found the H Hall workshop series book and thought I could do it. Scrounged the bits needed and had at it and here it is with a small mod ...does the job anyhow
PeteBoycott Shampoo!!
Demand Real Poo!
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17th Jun 2012, 02:36 AM #2
Nice one Pete
I see your mod with the locking screw position. I like Halls books too, but i already have a 6" rotary table so i probably won't be making the dividing head. The grinder rest is on the to-do list somewhere though.
What are the brass/bronze pins for in the top?
I believe Mike (morrisman) was making one too, i wonder were he is up to...too busy with the Hendey probably!1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th Jun 2012, 12:08 PM #3
head
I am doing the same project .. half way through.. Would like to see how you modified his design . How does the locking screw with handle , lock the spindle eg is there a groove machined into the spindle that the screw locks into ??
I had to buy a bit of cast iron round stock for the spindle bearings of that project .. Yesterday at that sale , there was cast iron a plenty for almost nil . For the same cost of that small piece of cast iron round stock I paid through the nose for - Yesterday, I bought a lot with 9 cast iron 4 groove pullies , in rough cast state , not machined yet + a lump of flat cast iron . I'm wishing now I bought more of that stuff ... you cannot have too much MIKE
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17th Jun 2012, 12:15 PM #4
Ueee shhhhh those brass pins are um er decoration. Actually was going with the original design but then had no slitting saw so followed a guys idea from HMEM forum. so the brass is just to fill the holes
Mike the mod is the cotter pin spindle lock instead of the cuts as per plan in the book. Also when you cut the keyway in the spindle take it all the way not the distance in the plan. Harold actually realised the problem when shown the mod. Brass or bronze is good for the bearings as well.
PeteBoycott Shampoo!!
Demand Real Poo!
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17th Jun 2012, 12:30 PM #5
mod
Pete
Could you do me a favour ?
Take a few pics of the mod e.g., take out the cotter and the locking screw and the spindle .... I'm pretty dumb when it comes to written descriptions ..I need PICS
I'm am dreading doing those saw cuts as I might stuff it up ...
Ok on the keyway in the spindle ...
Nice job BTW .... looks neat . MIKE
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17th Jun 2012, 01:20 PM #6Most Valued Member
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One thing I haven't understood about those saw cuts is "why four?". Does it just look better with that thin section in the middle? Its clearance on the spindle so I cant see it helping rigidity much.
Two cuts would be easier, am I missing something?
Stuart
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17th Jun 2012, 03:00 PM #7
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17th Jun 2012, 10:58 PM #8
Mike go to hmem and search for dividing head the guy put up all the pics there plus some nice tips
PeteBoycott Shampoo!!
Demand Real Poo!
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17th Jun 2012, 11:39 PM #9
found it
Ok
I found it
Harold Hall's basic dividing head
But I still dont understand how that brass pin locks the spindle The handle goes right through the pin , but the spindle would still turn ?
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17th Jun 2012, 11:53 PM #10Most Valued Member
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I think you'll find he cut the brass nut in half. "I went with the split nut rather then solid.". The half on the handle side clearance on the thread.
Not usre the end result would be a rigid as the bearings being split.(but then I'm not sure it wouldnt be either.)
Stuart
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18th Jun 2012, 12:00 AM #11
Just like the HM50's quill lock or many lathe T/S quills (my little one included). I would still go with the split though, if there is any play in the bearing the split nut may skew the shaft, and possibly not repeatably, whereas the split bearing should lock concentrically all the time. Thats my thoughts anyway, i have never measured it but i'm sure my lathe t/s quill moves slightly forward when i lock it.
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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18th Jun 2012, 12:49 AM #12.
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18th Jun 2012, 10:52 AM #13
my idea
this is my design... the shoes can be cast iron..with little steel balls between the shoes and the locking bolt and grub screw
Mike
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18th Jun 2012, 11:14 AM #14Most Valued Member
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Hi Mike,
I'm not sure how well that will lock things vertically. With it locked in the middle it would rock on any bearing clearance also.*
I managed to use a slitting saw on an arbor I made to cut through 18" x 1 1/4" cast iron with no problems, though steel could be more tricky. How are your hacksaw skills? you could even use a horizontal bandsaw if you have one. I'm now wondering if you could just make one horizontal cut? Ok the bearings then might not operate completely independently but would that be an issue?
Stuart
* having said that I may just be over complicating the issue after all we aren't talking about a 5hp production machine(are we?).
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18th Jun 2012, 11:19 AM #15.
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A bored insitu cotter would be a piece of . The only hacksawing required is when you cut the thing in half. Not as easy when you have to make cotters for existing bored bores.
BT
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