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  1. #1
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    Default Tailstock micrometer

    While fiddling around with my lathe this afternoon I found that the tailstock would not eject the small Austra centre I use. The drill chucks with their tanged arbors ejected readily. I popped the tailstock quill and screw out and all I can put the malfunction down to is wear at the screw end. Just happens that I have a spare 10 tpi screw along with a spare 100 thou graduated collar. Instead of just fixing the worn screw, I will have a go at making a tailstock micrometer. Hercus never offered one as an accessory but South Bend did. Below is a photo of the the graduated collar on a SB10.

    Tomorrow's project.

    BT

  2. #2
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Nice work as always!

    I like the way you just happen to have the right screw and a collar lying around.....This is another thing on my to-do list for the small lathe.....after the big one is working

    What sort of bearing is in the T/S Bob? I was amazed when i pulled mine apart for the first time to fine a single row deep groove, not what i expected from the 50's!
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Nice work as always!

    I like the way you just happen to have the right screw and a collar lying around.....This is another thing on my to-do list for the small lathe.....after the big one is working

    What sort of bearing is in the T/S Bob? I was amazed when i pulled mine apart for the first time to fine a single row deep groove, not what i expected from the 50's!
    Bearingless Ewan.

  4. #4
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    I made a tailstock nut the same diameter as the graduated collar, fitted it then realised why the cast Hercus nut had an oversize flange. The flange disguises the absence of concentricity in the main body casting. With a flangeless nut installed the fit looked shabby. A flanged version 3 of the nut I thought would benefit from some knurling. Turned out to be worthwhile given the number of times I screwed it on and off. With the nut and acme screw fitted along with the barrel, there was some binding occuring when the barrel was nearly fully withdrawn. Using a 29 degree HSS cutter I had ground for a previous project, the screw zeroed in a 4 jaw and my hand crank to turn the spindle, I was able trim off a couple of thou from the rear end of the screw. A bit of file work to augment the thread cutting resulted in a smooth handwheel action.

    I made a cock up when I stamped the zero. I had it positioned at top dead centre but when I really tightened the nut with a Boa strap wrench the zero ended up at about 12.45. I filed off the mark and drilled an oil hole as camouflage. Zero is now in a more convenient to see 10 o'clock position.

    The project was worthwhile and although I came unstuck a few times, relatively straightforward. I had it easy because I had been given the graduated collar. Making a collar isn't too tough a job anyway.

    The photos show a thumbscrew. Simply stolen from the crossslide collar. I might go and make a new one now.

    BT

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    Thats a nice job Bob, I know what you mean about the TS barrel not being concentric. My TS barrel is the same but I had never noticed until I decided to copy a feature I saw on Michaels TS. I liked the felt wiper and collar. When I made up the collar it made it very noticable that the barrel was not central and it looked very average. I mean I'm not talking about 1 -2 mm, it was about 7mm. I cursed my lathe (again) but perhaps I'm a little harsh if it's commonplace!

    Simon

  6. #6
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    Default Tailstock Modification

    Bob
    Very nice work, on what is a big improvement for the Hercus tailstock.
    Your rear mounted knurling operation is something which would seem very obvious , but something I have not tried.
    When knurling from the front toolpost I always have trouble viewing the knurl to see when its reached full impression or depth.
    So in the morning that will be something to try.
    Thanks for the photos
    regards
    Bruce

  7. #7
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    Nice work Bob

    I take it you have just engraved the 0 mark in the 5th pic? I noticed you cut into the piece, not out of it. I have done a fair bit of reading up on engraving dials, and everything has said to cut out of the work and not into it. Did you have any problems?

    Bruce, i too have had the same thoughts about Bobs knurling from the rear, it can be a real pain to lean over to check the depth. I have yet to make a rear toolpost though so its a ways down my list.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Nice work Bob

    I take it you have just engraved the 0 mark in the 5th pic? I noticed you cut into the piece, not out of it. I have done a fair bit of reading up on engraving dials, and everything has said to cut out of the work and not into it. Did you have any problems?

    Bruce, i too have had the same thoughts about Bobs knurling from the rear, it can be a real pain to lean over to check the depth. I have yet to make a rear toolpost though so its a ways down my list.
    Ewan,

    The 0 is stamped with a Young Brothers punch. It was the closest I have in size and font to the orignals. The Young stamps are sold in wooden boxes, Bunnings used to stock them. Avoid them if you are concerned about even, uniform number stamping. The location of the numeral varies on the punches making jigged stamping a nightmare. I have other better punches but not that size.

    Onto your other question. The graduating I have done so far has been from the edge in except for the vice base I made. I imagine they recommend scribing from the work outwards to avoid the curled chip. I can see the merit but it depends on the workpiece and access for the cutter you use to scribe the line. In the case of today's job I had to cut from the edge. The knurled flange prevented another approach.

    A rear mounted knurling tool is a real winner because as you blokes have observed, you can see what's going on.

    BT


  9. #9
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    Looks good Anorak Bob. Big improvement over the original, nice. Good to see a pic of the u-beaut knurling tool at action station too.

    Cheers.
    If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log View Post
    Looks good Anorak Bob. Big improvement over the original, nice. Good to see a pic of the u-beaut knurling tool at action station too.

    Cheers.
    Hey Log,

    It was getting a bit too close for comfort with the knurling. I had a couple of thou clearance between the side of the knurling tool and the chuck jaws. Always pays to turn the chuck by hand before hitting the go button.

    BT

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Hey Log,

    It was getting a bit too close for comfort with the knurling. I had a couple of thou clearance between the side of the knurling tool and the chuck jaws. Always pays to turn the chuck by hand before hitting the go button.

    BT
    It certainly is a good habit to get into. As a found out yesterday with Freddie, a crash on a small machine is nothing compared to what can happen with a 2 1/2 ton 5hp machine, and even then, my crash was not what i would call bad. The same sort of thing on my little lathe would have caused the flat belt to slip and jump off, no harm done. If i was a moment slower to the clutch yesterday 80+kg of vice would have been thrown who knows how far from 4 foot up......
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #12
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    This resurrection is because Kryn asked about my Hercus tailstock micrometer and its creation in Bob L's impeller thread. Due to the age of this thread it is devoid of photos so here are some of those photos that originally accompanied the text.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
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    Thank you for that Bob, very much appreciated.
    Regards,
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #14
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    Bob, thank you. That is a very nice bit of kit. I have an South Bend 10 .. but one that predates the tailstock micrometer.

    If I may ask, do you have a pic thread for the knurling tool?

    Greg.

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    Hi Bob,that is a very clean looking 9 inch,puts mine to shame.

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