Thread: Show us your Shaper

After pulling the vice down and cleaning it up and straightening the screw there is nothing special about a Douglas Vice. There is a fair amount of slop and lift in the sliding jaw and only two hold down bolts for the base.

As the screw is exposed to swarf I would classify it as a drilling vice with a swivel base.
I use a 5 inch (same size) K style milling vice on my small mill and it is far better than this one.

This vice is $110 delivered from Ozmestore so unless you want a replica for authenticity then I suggest buying one. Vice is here and there may be other sellers listing them.

I will be using a 6 inch anglelock milling vice on the Douglas as I have a spare and the extra size will come in handy.

Apologies to anyone that is offended by these remarks as I am being practical rather than sentimental on this occassion. Mind I might have egg on my face for saying that once I start using the shaper and the addiction starts.

Hi rdm,

When shaper vices get used on drills the screw tends to end up with drill marks in it. For some reason the screw on shaper vices(well at least all the ones I've seen) are in tension. The screw on mill/drill vices are in compression. The best theory I have heard is that its because shapers generally work towards the sliding jaw.


Stuart

I have been using one similar to the link only a 6 inch version. It came with my HM52 mill, but I changed over to an angle lock vise as it's better.
I have been chasing a Douglas vise, but more to have the original, but it's good to hear feed back of what they are really like.

Dave

Originally Posted by rodm

After pulling the vice down and cleaning it up and straightening the screw there is nothing special about a Douglas Vice. There is a fair amount of slop and lift in the sliding jaw and only two hold down bolts for the base.

As the screw is exposed to swarf I would classify it as a drilling vice with a swivel base.
I use a 5 inch (same size) K style milling vice on my small mill and it is far better than this one.

This vice is $110 delivered from Ozmestore so unless you want a replica for authenticity then I suggest buying one. Vice is here and there may be other sellers listing them.

I will be using a 6 inch anglelock milling vice on the Douglas as I have a spare and the extra size will come in handy.

Apologies to anyone that is offended by these remarks as I am being practical rather than sentimental on this occassion. Mind I might have egg on my face for saying that once I start using the shaper and the addiction starts.

Hi Stuart,
I went and had a look at what you are saying about compression and tension. Never knew that and I have learnt something today.

Now all I have to do is remember that longer than my short term memory.


Hi Dave,
I think the angle lock vice is the way to go. You might loose a little height - 30mm on mine but deeper jaws on the bigger vice might compensate.

I am taking this a bit O/T but I need to refer to Joe's post of the handle so I can get some advice.

I have removed the downfeed assembly and the screw has taken a knock as well as the winder handle has broken off. The shaft was bent which made removing the winder difficult. A scotch key holds it in and it goes through the handle and into the dial. Long story shortened it is out and the screw straightened and damaged keyway repaired. I had to turn down the end of the dial to square that up and will compensate for that by turning up a washer.

The winder requires a vertical handle 90mm long and rather than pien it over into the winder as per original I reckon a rotating handle will be better.
The hole in the winder is 9.25mm diam and 19.12mm deep. This should be ample to provide plenty of support so it doesn't flop about.

So what is the best way to hold the handle into the winder? Thread the end of the handle and use a nut and washer, a circlip and washer, drill and tap a hole in the handle and use a socket head screw and washer or ???

Photo of winder attached and refer to Joe's post #131 for the handle detail.

Rod,
I like your thinking: upgrade while you are at it.
I would thread the hole in the winder and use a socket head screw (maybe with the head turned down in diameter a little), and make a hollow handle....
If you go that way, you may need to increase the handle diameter a little (if you are going with the original shape that is).
Show us the results, please.
Cheers,
Joe

Hi Joe,

Glad you said that as it is what I prefer. Being self taught it is reassuring to get advice from here.

I'll get to it tomorrow night and hopefully post something then.

As this appears to be the only wart I reckon I have got a good machine and should have a lot of fun making chips.

I intend to CNC mill some square spanner sockets into some round stock. If I bore a clearance hole first it should be faily easy to run say an 8mm roughing bit then finish with a small diam bit to get the corners tight. The problem as I see it is cutting to say 25mm without breaking small bits. I could drill the corners first if it becomes a problem.

The shafts have rounded corners so I might get lucky on the mill without further work. This could then be welded to a handle.
Alternatively I could make an acrylic or other blank on the CNC router if anyone can get it cast.

Rod,

This is only my point of view and I don't use my shaper day in and day out.

Having the tapered handle fixed works well enough because because in use the down feed is at a fairly slow rate ie. you are not spinning that handle at a rate of knots.

I know you are champing at the bit to get your new toy up and running but you could wait till Saturday and have a go at using the fixed handle on my machine before you undertake your modifications. There is a more important modification to the downfeed screw that I would like to discuss.

Bob.

Hi Rod,

I'm with Bob, the down feed on a shaper is a series of jerks, not smooth rotation like a lathe. Still as long as you don't modify the winder you can always change back. Who knows it might be brilliant.
I think I'd make something like this, so the handle rotated on it rather than in the hole in the winder. Either turn it up from solid or if the hole size suits weld the shoulder onto a bolt with enough unthreaded shank

Stuart

Thanks, makes sense having a fixed handle.

I think I can wait until Saturday but that is three sleeps away.

The original handle features a long delicate taper. Incorporating rotation via a fixed spindle and a spinning handle will result in a much fatter handle and the absence of grace.

I'm considering remaking the entire downfeed screw again to overcome the binding of the graduated collar when in use. I simply adopted the design Hercus used on the lathe and mill feed screws. Works well enough on those machines but not on the shaper. Another useful modification would be the fitting of graduated collars on the table feed screws. Being lazy, I haven't got around to determining whether the pitch of those screws lends them to collaring. Then there's the way wipers....

BT

Originally Posted by rodm

Thanks, makes sense having a fixed handle.

I think I can wait until Saturday but that is three sleeps away.

Hey Rod,

Is there any chance that you could bring the cutting head assembly with you? I think I have disposed of the useless original screw and collar. It might be interesting take some comparative photos.

BT

Eventually I will remake the downfeed screw and the graduated collar as well but this one is good enough for an initial play with the machine.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Hey Rod,

Is there any chance that you could bring the cutting head assembly with you? I think I have disposed of the useless original screw and collar. It might be interesting take some comparitive photos.

BT

Wiil do

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

The original handle features a long delicate taper. Incorporating rotation via a fixed spindle and a spinning handle will result in a much fatter handle and the absence of grace.

Hmmmm I hadnt thought about your handles being smaller than the one on my shaper. Its 10.2mm at the thinnest point.

Stuart