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22nd Dec 2011, 05:42 PM #1Distracted Member
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Adapting cup wheels to a bench grinder
Has anyone done this? Is there any reason not to? Obviously you would have to make up an adaptor. But assuming you could get it mounted nicely and dressed ... why not? Would the bearings not be accurate enough?
The reason for doing it is so you have a wheel designed for side use. The concept is a bench grinder optimised for HSS lathe tools, with coarse and fine white wheels and compound rests. I picked up an 8" grinder at the dump and got it working.
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22nd Dec 2011, 05:52 PM #2
book
Bryan..you need to buy this book it describes what you are talkiing about
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rc...6V9-Rw&cad=rja
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:11 PM #3Golden Member
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you mean like this??? got the ideas from the same book as morrissman said
i just used a few washers to build up the space between the flange and the nut
ps no oh& s here guards have not been extended yetLast edited by tanii51; 22nd Dec 2011 at 06:13 PM. Reason: left a bit out
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:14 PM #4Most Valued Member
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+1 for the book,
Tool and Cutter Sharpening (Workshop Practice) : Harold Hall : 9781854862419
One of these days I want to be able to sharpen milling cutters
Stuart
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:21 PM #5Most Valued Member
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tanii51,
Just one point. I think you'll find the washers should be the same inside and out(just under the size of the paper. I cant see the outside one properly but it looks to be to big, the inside one is to small.
Stuart
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:32 PM #6
yes
Good point . The washers or flanges should be the same diameter - With odd sized flanges fitted , it stresses the wheel having uneven pressure on either side and the cup or wheel may explode . It's one of the safety points they went on about at the TAFE I attended . MIKE
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:32 PM #7Golden Member
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stuart you are probably right the inside one is the original flange type washer that was used on the original flat 6 inch wheels the cup wheel is a 4 inch oops 100mm wheel .I found the cup wheel in a bargain bin its a 60 grit one so a bit course for finishing. it was just purchased as an experiment to see how it would work it needs truing up a little but not too bad for straight out of the box
john
the washers on the outside are just there as spacersLast edited by tanii51; 22nd Dec 2011 at 06:35 PM. Reason: left a bit out
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22nd Dec 2011, 06:41 PM #8
Hi Bryan,
Not quite what you are asking, but I use diamond cup wheels on the bench grinder..
One of those Waldown side grinders like Phil had at the scraping course is what you need.
Regards
Ray
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22nd Dec 2011, 07:03 PM #9Dave J Guest
I notice some grinder will move the wheels to on side when started, I would check to see if yours does and shim the bearings if needed.Other than that I don't see a problem.
Dave
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22nd Dec 2011, 08:43 PM #10Philomath in training
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Dave, that sideways movement at start up is probably something to do with a centrifugal switch that some single phase grinders use to cut out the starting coil for the motor. I don't know if you could shim that movement out without a lot of work - perhaps for those who are not electrically challenged a timer circuit could take the place of the switch, but it might be a matter of checking grinders before you buy.
Michael
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22nd Dec 2011, 09:52 PM #11Distracted Member
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Thanks guys. I'm slightly embarrassed to admit I have the Hall book somewhere. Think I'd better go and renew my acquaintance with it. The grinder in question has no centrifugal switch or shaft-shimmy.
I mainly want a better way to rough out a new shape. Sick of burning up blue belts @ $6. And if I'm going to buy new wheels they might as well be the right ones.
Ray do you use the diamond wheels for HSS? John Stevenson poo-poohs the doomsayers and claims to have been using cheap diamond wheels on HSS forever with no issues (I don't know how long really). I will go ahead and order a couple for carbide (when finances recover), and may give them a try on HSS to see if I go blind or rip a new one in the fabric of space-time.
PS: Tanii, are those wheels different grits and can you comment of their performance?
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22nd Dec 2011, 10:55 PM #12Most Valued Member
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I'd been lining up for the same question Bryan, even Nortan say not to use steel on diamond if its going to be hot enough to make sparks. But one of my mates uses a diamond wheel of flywheels and thinks its just great and last I heard he was paying about $500 a wheel so not something he'd be using if they were wearing out faster than normal wheels.
Stuart
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22nd Dec 2011, 11:07 PM #13
Hi Bryan, Stuart,
Not especially, I am mainly using the diamond wheel on carbide. But now that you mention it, I don't see why you can't use diamond on HSS. It's become conventional practice in the woodworking world to use diamond paste on cast iron (or hard leather stops and such) for final honing of edges, especially on the more exotic steels. However I can't see the fine grit wheels I've got being much good at removing much material however.
Then of course there's hard milling and hard turning using PCD imserts, bottom line is diamond is harder than steel... You've no doubt seen the video's on youtube of machining hardened steels using CBN and PCD inserts..
Regards
Ray
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23rd Dec 2011, 07:43 AM #14Golden Member
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Bryan just recently i have been playing with larger 5/8 pieces of hss tooling for my shaper( a good way to learn its easier to get the feel of the angles on larger peices i found).to save time and grinding wheels i tried using one of them thin cut off wheels on an angle grinder to rough out the shape it worked it left an edge almost ready to go
as for grinding wheels i cant remebr what the conventional; wheel is but i think its an 60 grit or higher have alook in harolds book he gives the codes. if mines a 60 grit it seems ok for finishing and of course a white wheel the grey ones are for throwing at unruly dogs
others with more experience in these things may have better advise
john
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23rd Dec 2011, 11:30 AM #15Distracted Member
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I didn't really intend to get into wheel selection as I know it's been discussed extensively in the past, and there's plenty of info in catalogues as well. But briefly on diamond, what Stuart said fits with something I read about low speed/heat being ok. Hearing it from Norton confirms it I guess. But as you say Ray, it's not going to be a roughing option.
John, where are you buying 5/8 sticks? I use Ozmestore stuff, which I think is better than CTC's, but he only keeps up to 1/2. I've tried a cutoff wheel too. It did the job but I can't say I felt comfortable about it. With normal steel when it gets hot it softens and cuts nicely; HSS if anything seems to get harder. And I couldn't seem to get the alignment right and it kept wanting to grab. Those thin wheels make me nervous in that situation. So I guess that's an operator issue. Maybe I'll try again.