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Thread: QUALOS lathe
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1st Apr 2014, 11:13 PM #46New Member
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- Jun 2012
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- melbourne
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Re Qualos Lathe
Hi Jacques
yes i'd be interested to see the sales brochures. I'd appreciate if you could post them - thanks
patrick
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11th Apr 2014, 03:22 PM #47Intermediate Member
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- Sep 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
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- 30
Qualos Original Sales Brochures
Hi Patrick,
Glad you got the manual finally here. Hotmail attachments was obviously the problem.
As mentioned, attached here are the period sales literature Mitutoyo Qualos send me in PDF format. Again I acknowledge their kind permission to reproduce it here.
I am a novice myself so will have to let someone else on the forum answer your questions on regarding headstock spindle runout correcting. Would imagine the bearings would very seldom need to be adjusted however. Sounds like a heavy hand was used in any event on any previous adjustment.
I have not looked at my lathe bearings but from my truck restoration experience old oil is almost as bad for bearings as no oil. The acids that form in 70 year old oil can severely pit balls, needles and races.
All the best enjoyment with your Qualos lathe.
As an aside: I finally got to see my neighbor a few doors away Qualos lathe. He though it was a Junior but it is in fact the same 5-1/4" x 33" model as mine. In excellent condition too from an old tech school and about 100 serial numbers lower than mine. What are the chances that two people only a few metres away have the same vintage lathes in their garages!
Cheers,
Jacques
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16th Apr 2014, 06:01 PM #48New Member
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- Jun 2012
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- melbourne
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Re : Qualos Lathe
Hi Jacques
Thanks for posting those sales brochures - very interesting. It is an amazing coincidence that your neighbour has the same model in good condition, but then I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few of them about still.
Once again, thanks to anyone who can throw some light on sorting out spindle alignment problems, I think I'll also try and find a friendly fitter who can come and have a look over it and give me a problem list to work my way through. I'd love to see the lathe restored to reasonable accuracy but it could be that it is not practical this time - we will see, and I'll keep you posted on the progress....
patrick
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11th May 2014, 09:30 PM #49
qualos
Found these pics and also one on ebay that looks rather sad , the bed is eaten away .
http://www.slv.vic.gov.au/pictoria/g...90324/1/a38022
http://www.slv.vic.gov.au/pictoria/g...90324/1/a38023
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Qualos-me...item2ed1ac607a
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9th Feb 2015, 09:24 PM #50New Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Location
- Frankston
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- 3
qualos 5 inch
Just aquired one of these. Any info would be appreciated.
what sort of oil do you use in gear boxes, my guess is sae 90 gear oil.
used to have a couple of fostermatics and they took sae 10 for the auto clutches.
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15th Feb 2015, 11:56 PM #51Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Location
- melbourne
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- 72
HMT lathe on ebay
Hi every one.
Not about Qualos.
I clicked on the link to ebay in the #1 post in this thread and it links to the current ebay list.
Item #11 is a HMT LB20 strait bed lathe. i.e. no gap. It is the second time this machine has been listed as there were no bids first time. Probable due to its location.
This machine is not presented very well but in general they were very good. 10 HP 18 speed. Gamet bearing spindle and hardened steel insert slideways. A very strong machine.
I was told they were a French design made under license.
For the asking price it would be hard to beat.
My interest?
I bought one from Bruce Towns Engineering in '76 and used for 12 years before selling as I was down sizing.
The company I sold it to was taken over by Marand Eng. and they sold the machine on online auction about 3 years ago and I went to have a look to see how it had fared.
When I got the lathe in '76 it had .003 thou back lash in the cross slide screw and 35 years later it had .006 thou back lash which I think is amazing.
It sold for $1500.00
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25th Feb 2015, 04:46 PM #52New Member
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- Apr 2011
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- Australia
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- 1
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23rd Jul 2015, 02:12 PM #53Turning useful pieces of steel into scrap metal.
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- Jun 2010
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- Riverina, NSW, Australia
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- 68
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- 138
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8th Aug 2015, 04:29 PM #54Novice
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- Jul 2008
- Location
- Northcote, VIC
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- 19
Here, finally, are some pics of my Qualos Junior. The lighting in the shed is not the best for photography...
The lathe bed and the major parts are stamped with matching numbers: 1027.
If anyone else with a junior could take a pic of how the change gears are fitted, I'd appreciate it!
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25th Jun 2016, 07:55 PM #55New Member
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- Jun 2016
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- Ballarat, Vic Australia
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- 6
Hello guys, I have a Qualos Junior lathe, it has been sitting in the shed for a few years unused and has some rust on it, any ideas on cleaning it up?...Also what size tools can be used in the toolpost, 1/4" 5/16" The tool holders that came with it have been ground down on the bottom, I was thinking of just putting those carbide tipped tools you see on Ebay straight into the toolpost, is that how it should work?
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25th Jun 2016, 08:30 PM #56
Qualos
Hi
The little junior comes up on EBAY now and then .
If you want to use carbide tools, the little junior may not be rigid enough to cope . Maybe the highly polished carbide inserts intended for Aluminium would be suitable ?
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25th Jun 2016, 08:48 PM #57New Member
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- Jun 2016
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- Ballarat, Vic Australia
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- 6
Thanks, would you put them in the tool holder?
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25th Jun 2016, 10:16 PM #58
You need to buy or make the insert holder, the carbide inserts come in different shapes .
The tool post is another matter .
Search this forum for " aluminium inserts"
example
"There are special inserts for Aluminium. These have a very positive top rake of about 25 degrees (sometimes up to 30), and mirror polished surfaces, and razor sharp cutting edges. These have exatly the same size and shape as your TCMT inserts, but are called TCGT (the G stands for polished surfaces). After the TCGT comes the same series of 6 numbers that you were using with your existing TCMT inserts. For example, if you were using TCMT090204 you would now need TCGT090204. The last digit actually means the tip radius, in this case 0.4mm. You can also get 02 or o6 or 08mm, depending what you usie it for most. Now this still does exactly get you what you want, which is a high top rake geometry optimised for cutting Alumium. You will get this by adding a suffix -ALU or -AL (each manufacturer uses a different set of suffixes, but most would use -AL or -ALU for what you want). The complete order number for above example thus is TCGT090204-ALU. Note that this is the Metric ISO designation, the Americans would call it the same letters but use a different numbering system for the size).
Now, if you are also after a brand recommendation, it gets trickier. For home use, I suggest you browse ebay and buy whatever brand has a lower price offering or is on special. Just stay away from unknown or fantasy name brands. I personally use German made PlanseeTIZIT CCGT inserts simply because a few years ago I could buy several packs at a very good price (CCGT are diamond shaped, TCGT are triangular shaped). They are excellent, but many other brand is just as good.
For steel I would recommend you use the same TCGT insert for fine and finest finishing, but for roughing use the good old TCMT. For home use it does absolutely not matter if coated or not. Look up on eBay, and buy what is cheapest at the time. Just stay away from unknown brands, there are some pretty inferior quality inserts around. Look up the insert brand maker on the internet, you will quickly see which brands are serious as they have professional catalogs and huge insert ranges and application notes etc etc and are also carried by industrial tools suppliers, whereas backyard manufacturers may only have brochures written in languages that you cannot read anyway....
Do not go overboard: you really only need two types of insert in a home shop. The TCGT-ALU suffix kind will do everything Aluminium, non ferrous metals, all plastics, even wood, plus ferrous metals finest finishing. Whereas the TCMT is perfect for roughing and finishing of all ferrous metals including cast irons and interrupted cuts.
Note: TCGTxxxxxx-ALU are NOT suitable for heavy interrupted cuts, the 25 degree top rake makes the cutting edge very fragile! Only very LIGHT interrupted cuts are ok."
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25th Jun 2016, 10:39 PM #59New Member
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- Jun 2016
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- Ballarat, Vic Australia
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- 6
Thanks for that, I am wanting to turn 6061 pistons for accumulators, 51.9 mm dia... And any ideas on getting the surface rust off the bed, chuck etc?...Diesel maybe"?
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25th Jun 2016, 10:57 PM #60
Hi
Depends on how bad the rust is. Some recommend scotch brite pads because they are less likely to remove too much of the base metal. Kero is OK but use gloves .
For the delicate bed ways the scotch brite is good . On the other less critical surfaces like chucks something a bit coarser will suffice
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