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  1. #2131
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Shreveport
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Great unit , I’m going to get a 6” or possibly a 8” in a month or so and I want that brand - getting get write ups lately.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2132
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    69

    Default

    Added a Mimic hydraulic copying attachment to the collection.
    Fantastic piece of kit. Don’t need to worry about the taper turning or ball attachment now as this does the lot.
    Was 3phase but the collection of single phase motors here donated one to the cause.
    597F069F-63FB-4D5E-A99D-6F9ABD1CF06D.jpg

  3. #2133
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    What a ripper! Looking forward to a video of it working!
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  4. #2134
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    I'm certainly where is the stylus and how do you hold the template?

  5. #2135
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    69

    Default

    I’ll see if I can sneak in some time to grab a video over the weekend.
    I still owe RC a vid of the G&L borer running.
    Template is just a flat 2d form. You can just see a small section of blue painted scrap steel on the right side under the arm with the hoses. The stylus is just a small pin actuating a hydraulic valve.
    keith fenner has an ok video if you’re interested.
    To turn a ball, all you need is a washer the same diameter clamped on the template holder.

  6. #2136
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default

    3 New clamps one solid brass G area. Oh and a wooden Matherson plane.

    20180324_133421.jpg20180324_133412.jpg20180324_133435.jpg

    little while back picked up a gear puller, steel rule and an awl.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #2137
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default 2" dial indicator

    For $34 delivered from pommyland l thought that l would take a punt, it took 7 days to get here from the push of the button. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253490127373
    It has a plastic body and is your typical cheap chinko quality but it seems to work ok and should be of value the few times that l may need it. I have been looking for a 2" mitty but for the amount of times that it would get used l couldn't justify the cost.

    ..........shed
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #2138
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    654

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    little while back picked up a gear puller, steel rule and an awl.
    Actually wheelin, I believe that the awl is really a gimlet (self contained wood drill) as it has the threaded pilot to draw it into the wood and the spiral flute. It produces a finished hole similar to a jobber bit used in a hand or power drill. An awl would generally be a three or four sided bar tapering to a fine point, with fairly sharp corners that shear or scrape material to start a hole for a different drill form to finish. Great score though.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  9. #2139
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    Actually wheelin, I believe that the awl is really a gimlet (self contained wood drill) as it has the threaded pilot to draw it into the wood and the spiral flute. It produces a finished hole similar to a jobber bit used in a hand or power drill. An awl would generally be a three or four sided bar tapering to a fine point, with fairly sharp corners that shear or scrape material to start a hole for a different drill form to finish. Great score though.
    Thanks Malb
    Defiantly getting old and forgetfultodays tools gloat

  10. #2140
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,038

    Default 7 insert face mill plus strobe effect

    Bought this Kennametal 65mm face mill with inserts cheap off eBay some time ago, finally got around to buying an NT30 arbor so I could put it to use. The inserts are doubled sided so there are 12 cutting tips per insert, the tips are numbered 1 to 12. Its a tool I think that has escaped from Serious Industry. I don't have enough HP or rigidity to use the cutter to its full potential but even on a feeble machine (Hafpos HM52) its a pleasure to use.

    An interesting side effect when I have the shed fluoros on is that at some RPM the cutter inserts appear to be running backwards, turn the fluoros off and the effect disappears. At 760 RPM for instance the inserts are flicking past at 89Hz, fluoros are 50Hz.

    IMG_1333.jpg

    IMG_1324.jpg

  11. #2141
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    At least you have a good machine beside the soggy noodle.

    My 10" Alba still clangs on even though somebody had crashed it badly in a previous life. I have thought of making a new sliding block out of cast iron.

    Ken

  12. #2142
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    I don't think that there would be much doubt about it Bob, I don't think that Kennamatal do hobby machine tooling. A very nice score there.

  13. #2143
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Bob,

    That looks a serious piece of kit ! I have a 50 mm three insert face mill and my Chinese BF20 mill (1Hp) will struggle with anything but a light cut. One reason I prefer to use a fly cutter and get a better finish.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #2144
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Bob,

    That looks a serious piece of kit ! I have a 50 mm three insert face mill and my Chinese BF20 mill (1Hp) will struggle with anything but a light cut. One reason I prefer to use a fly cutter and get a better finish.
    Hey Baron,

    Do you rough out the workpiece with the 3bit cutter and then fine finish with the HSS flycutter ? Would the single point cutter take 6x as long to cover the same area i.e. for 3bit carbide the cutting speed is 2x HSS and 3 cutters so covers the same area 6x faster than a single point hss flycutter ?

    I've not done any finishing with a single point HSS flycutter yet, only trepanning. It's on the list.

    Bill

  15. #2145
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Bill,

    I don't tend to hog out large areas of material, actually that was the reason for buying the 50 mm 3 insert cutter. For most of the work I do, the fly cutter works well. I think that the deepest cut I've made is around 1mm in steel. I've never really taken the time to measure how fast or how long any particular cutting takes, as long as the machine sounds and feels happy, I get good surface finishes. I made a finger plate recently from a chunk of 100 X 100 X 15 mm angle iron. I fly cut both sides of a piece 75 X 80 mm, mainly to remove the scale and get a bright finish. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow and post it for you in a new thread.


    EDIT: See post, "Finger Plate"

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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