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  1. #1
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    Default pot belly butterfly valve

    anyone got any ideas on the assembly of a butterfly valve in a pot belly stove?
    ive put a few together and they are either open or closed, nothing inbetween.
    ive tried springs but i find they lose their tention and become soft from the heat also tried cutting a thread and tightening a nut onto the shaft of the butterfly to put weight on it, but it comes lose eventualy. any ideas would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    In my opinion, the best way to make this type of assembly is with a quadrant plate and bell crank. The attached pictures show the details of a pot belly stove I made about 22 years ago. It's looking a bit worst for wear now, but it gets used every winter, and the wife normally has it going 24 / 7 this time of year. The fittings are all 316 stainless steel.

  3. #3
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    Along the same line as Erickendall, the shaft will need to be attached to a notched or pinned arc or quadrant to give incremental steps. The previous post is a much better engineered than I was thinking. Basically my thought was to use a long small diameter rod at right angles to the shaft which would be flexible enough to spring from notch to notch or hole to hole as you moved it up and down. Would remove the need for linkages? But then I haven’t actually made such a device so it's speculative.

  4. #4
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    ive given thought to your idea in the past but if you take a look at the attached pics you will see my problem. i made this the other week for a friend and the style you suggest just wouldnt go, the butterfly was nice and tight to start with but that was lost with the first firing.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    Default

    Why not go with this:

  6. #6
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    As per erickendall's drawing except that it's just a push - pull rod. Notches in the rod engage with a simple bracket at front of the heater (could be simple bracket with a hole for the rod to slide through). Wish I could draw. However such a arrangement could be placed over the top or to the side of the heater body.

  7. #7
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    Driftabout,
    This the sort of thing you mean?
    (Wouldnt work exactly as drawn!)

    erickendall,
    How hot did the s/s handle get?

    Stuart

  8. #8
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    can't do it with the lever/handle on the lid, every heater/stove i make has a removable lid with a grill beneath itand is left flat intentionally so you can put the kettle on it while your doing the impotant stuff in the shed, besides i don't think its all that attractive having something that resembles roosters tail on the lid. im thinking more along the lines of an internaly counter balanced butterfly that will sit on any position from 0 degrees to a right angle without flopping open or shut. any suggestions?

  9. #9
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    Can you bring the butterfly up the flue a little?
    You could fit erickendalls idea directly to the butterfly or have the quadrant hang down from the butterfly shaft and have a moveable weight. Hook the weight into the hole that gives you the opening you want.

    Stuart

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE=Stustoys;1338174]Driftabout,
    This the sort of thing you mean?
    (Wouldnt work exactly as drawn!)

    Yep, now if the butterfly shaft is extended out so the push pull rod just clears the side with the lever action pointing down. Or as suggeted move the butterfly up and have it directly on the near the flue.

    Might even be able to organise the rod and lever internally, not sure how to proved a sound and smoke tight gland. I've tried to think of a butterfly valve in a industrial context that does what kraits is after, but I draw a blank. Not much help really, sorry.
    Last edited by Driftabout; 25th Jun 2011 at 10:37 PM. Reason: level to lever

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    erickendall,
    How hot did the s/s handle get?

    Stuart
    Yes it does get hot. Not that hot that it's hard to adjust though

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by erickendall View Post
    Yes it does get hot. Not that hot that it's hard to adjust though
    Do you think its the s/s making the differance or would MS be about the same temp?
    Stuart

  13. #13
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    How about makin a simple plate with a series of holes drilled vertically, fitted to the side of the chimney.

    Much like a ladder.

    Just put a hook on the end of the bell-crank (and a wooden handle would be a good idea! ) which can be placed in the appropriate "rung."

    You'd need to counterweight the flap so it naturally fell towards the open (or shut) position by gravity when the hook was moved to a lower rung, though.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Do you think its the s/s making the differance or would MS be about the same temp?
    Stuart
    If it was just conduction heat I would say that SS would be superior, but radiant heat is also involved. MS is not really a good choice for this type of application.

  15. #15
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    ive taken your ideas in and come up with something a little less obvious, ive tried to attach a drawing of it, take a look and let me know if you can see any problems with it, thanks

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