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25th Apr 2011, 11:09 PM #16Most Valued Member
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You have a good eye then Bob, even if you do have sore fingers lol
Its amazing how little touchs like that radius takes it from "something that works" like I build, to "something that looks like its meant to be there" like you build.
Stuart
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25th Apr 2011, 11:13 PM #17.
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You after another package Stu?
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25th Apr 2011, 11:21 PM #18Most Valued Member
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The only package I need BT is more pactice. I'm working on a spindle back stop made out of a Macpherson strut cartridge ATM lol. Not sure it will look as pretty as your work.
Stuart
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25th Apr 2011, 11:23 PM #19Product designer retired
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AB,
I sincerely hope you didn't think I was taking a shot at you. All tongue-in-cheek.
You and Greg must get together and Google up some pretty impressive words, just to keep us wackers at bay. "dilettante".
A person who claims an area of interest, such as the arts, without real commitment or knowledge.
Ken
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25th Apr 2011, 11:29 PM #20Dave J Guest
I agree Ken, those words are not in my vocabulary. I must have been away the days they taught those in school.
Google sorts them out though.lol
Dave
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25th Apr 2011, 11:39 PM #21
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25th Apr 2011, 11:44 PM #22Product designer retired
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RG
indubitably.
Ken
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26th Apr 2011, 12:40 PM #23I break stuff...
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27th Apr 2011, 01:23 AM #24
I am just now catching up on some of these posts. Bob: Me like. I have saved this for future reference. Words fail me.
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27th Apr 2011, 08:49 AM #25Most Valued Member
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Another nice job there Bob, that was pretty much what I had in my mind when I threw out my suggestion, with the exception that the non threaded side was longer so it located back on a casting or similar for repeatability.
Pete
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27th Apr 2011, 09:07 AM #26.
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Pete,
For repeatability I could back off the M8 adjusting screw and use the body of the adjuster as a stop BUT I'd have to be careful. My abbreviated tee nut is hardly robust enough to handle the weight of the table hitting the adjuster with anything more than a gentle impact. Peter Fischer's original adjuster wins in that regard.
Bob.
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27th Apr 2011, 09:21 AM #27Most Valued Member
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Oh, ok, I thought the whole adjuster had to be removed for full table travel, I must have misunderstood. I was just imagining something that if the adjuster did need to be removed, it could be located back in precisely the same location, hence registering off the casting. The casting wouldn't take any force at all, merely register the stop. Looks like you have it nicely sorted now anyway.
Pete
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27th Apr 2011, 11:13 AM #28.
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What you are suggesting makes a lot of sense Pete. What I have made doesn't really work as a "back to perfect alignment" stop. Schaublin addressed this in the revised late 60s 13. They had a locating dowel incorporated in the table for the purpose of zeroing it.
My adjuster, and that of Peter Fischer's, would be useful for adjusting the table accurately to any angle. A stop, along the lines of your idea, would be real handy.
BT
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30th Apr 2011, 07:15 PM #29.
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Modification
I did away with the cap screw and the fumbling with an Allen key. The screw is 4140 and the handle a piece of stainless rod. Works as well as I hoped for.
BT
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1st May 2011, 08:35 PM #30Most Valued Member
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OK, now I think you're just rubbing it in. lol
Looks great BT.
Stuart