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  1. #76
    Dave J Guest

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    That came up good and will save any dents, I bet the rotation doesn't line up every time like in the video.lol
    It beats my bit of 200x20mm flat pine board I have.

    I always tilt my chuck a bit and put the bottom cam lock pin in to take a bit of the weight, then bring it up to the other 2.

    I still have to make the chuck lifters for my crane, will get around to it one day.

    Dave

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,249

    Default

    Thanks Dave
    I still have a piece of pine for the 3 jaw and face plate.
    The plan for rotation alignment is to make another slide for the 3 jaw and have it locate the spindle at the same point of rotation when removing the 3 jaw. There is a pine block locating the rotation of the 4 jaw that you can see in the last picture.
    Thats the plan. no idea how well it will work lol.

    Stuart

  3. #78
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Geraldton WA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Build yourself one of these..... hey it is a woodwork forum
    Stuart,

    I think if you tried to pass this off as woodwork in any of the other forums beside the metalwork forum you would get more replies than you bargained for...

    Regards,
    Chris

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,249

    Default

    lol I never said it was pretty Chris

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    607

    Default Your Latest Project

    Here is my latest project, I saw this idea on another forum some time ago and have just recently found time to make it. Sure saves time tramming the head on the mill. A couple of cheap dial gauges $8-50 each from CTC Tooling and a bit of time on the lathe and mill and you have a very handy tool.
    Bob

  6. #81
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Geraldton WA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Here is my latest project, I saw this idea on another forum some time ago and have just recently found time to make it. Sure saves time tramming the head on the mill. A couple of cheap dial gauges $8-50 each from CTC Tooling and a bit of time on the lathe and mill and you have a very handy tool.
    Bob
    Nice work Bob.

    Was it hard work to calibrate it and can you give an explanation on how you calibrated it?

    Regards,
    Chris

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,249

    Default

    Nicely done Bob. If I ever get an ER chuck I'll be making myself one.

    Stuart

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    607

    Default Your Latest Project

    Polie,
    It is easy to calibrate it, you just select a clear area on your mill table, fit the tramming devise into your collet and snug it up then lower it down by raising the table so that one gauge only touches the surface and deflects the indicator a little bit,I just sent it round the dial to just past the 12 oclock position. Tighten that gauge in position with the clamping allen screw that you can see, then lock the Z axis gibs up, rotate that dials bezel to read zero.You now need to have your mill spindle in the neutral position so that it rotates easily, lift the first dials pointer that you just locked in place and rotate the tramming devise 180 degrees so that the second dial can be set up on the exact same place as the first one was.You will have to walk around to the back or side of your mill to read the gauge square on.Now just lower the second gauge down until it touches the surface and winds on to approximately the same position as the first dial, tighten the allen screw and then rotate the bezel until it reads zero. Both dials do not have to be exactly in line it just looks nicer if they are,as long as they are both reading zero on the same spot on the table.Then you tighten the small bezel locking screw on both dials and you are set. Remember these are delicate instruments and have to be handled and used carefully to obtain accurate readings.
    Bob

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    home
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Polie View Post
    Nice work Bob.

    Was it hard work to calibrate it and can you give an explanation on how you calibrated it?

    Regards,
    Chris
    There's a detailed thread on building this over on the MadModder site.

  10. #85
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Looks good Bob.

    Dave

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    3,463

    Default

    Great work

    you guys make it look so easy

    might even give it ago ...soon...I need to get a couple of DI's tho for this project...have to wait till pay day again

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    home
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Not exactly a metalworking project but definitely metalworking related.

    Finally! finished off the Shumatech DRO for the X2 mill.
    This has been 'mostly finished for a while and was just waiting for the front overlay which arrived today.
    I did manage to stick the overlay down about 1mm to the right of where it should go.
    I'll make sure I get it right with the next one of these I build or rather finish building - all I have to do is to drill the case and wire it up and then find somewhere to put it.
    I'll have to check out some cheap scales for the lathe.

  13. #88
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    That come up looking good, it will make milling a lot easier, without having to count hand wheel revolutions.

    Dave

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    2,076

    Default

    Hi Snowy,

    That looks great. I have had a few private words with Bigshed re the Sieg X2 mill. I'm anxious to learn more about this mill. Your opinion, and opinions from others, would be appreciated.

    Ken

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    216

    Default X2 Minimill

    Quote Originally Posted by neksmerj View Post
    Hi Snowy,

    .... re the Sieg X2 mill. I'm anxious to learn more about this mill. Your opinion, and opinions from others, would be appreciated.

    Ken
    Ken, I bought an X2 clone about 2 years ago and it all works OK. I have fitted a belt drive to my machine, added a spindle lock and also fitted a couple of coverted digital verniers to easily measure the Y and Z travel.

    Bear in mind that it is a pretty small mill and the going is slow in steel but OK in lighter stuff like aluminium.

    Here is a thread that may have some useful information http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ne...49/index2.html

    I'd say, all in all and price considered, the X2 is a good starting point to get into milling operations, if you only seeing yourself milling smaller pieces or you dont mind having to take many shallow cuts in harder materials. However, if you want to mill up larger stuff and want to be able to take deep cuts in steel etc, then I'd recommend spending the extra cash and getting something bigger with more grunt.
    The first step towards knowledge is to know that we are ignorant.

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