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  1. #781
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Castlemaine
    Posts
    244

    Default Structural Steel Work

    Unfortunately I have not had a chance form much shed time lately as I am building a new house. However when I got the quote for the structural steel work, I thought I could save a few thousand dollars and get some "sanctioned" shed time.

    The steel work consists of five 6.2 mt 200mm PFC beams joining 2 precast concrete walls and a few posts. The beams are bolted to cleats welded to steel plates in the concrete walls. First job was to drill all the cleats and chamfer the welded ends. I then tack welded all the cleats in place and got a mate who is a professional welder to weld them on.

    Next job was to drill the bolt holes in the beams. As the beams are so long they would have to be drilled by hand on site. The brand new 16mm bit would not fit in my drill chuck so I chucked it up in the 4 jaw and turned it Down to 13mm.

    As the beams are so long it is hard to get an accurate dimension on the centres, so I only drilled one end of the beam. I then lifted the beam into place using a duct lifter and bolted up one end. I the used a small bush I had turned up on the lathe to accurately drill a pilot hole, before drilling the 16mm hole once the beam had been lowered to the ground.

    now all I need to do is install 3 posts in the end wall.

    Cheers

    Piersimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

  2. #782
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,649

    Default

    Nice work. Pilot hole is a good idea. I've done similar on hand drilled large diameter stuff.

    Seeing you turning down the drill shank made me laugh - I also turned one down last night.

    Near new Sutton reduced shank drill, that was no where near accurately centred on the stepped section.

    So much for current Sutton quality. Not like the old stuff.

    Rob

  3. #783
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,945

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Kryn,
    An edition number would be great. I had not thought about using a bearing, sounds like a good idea. Did you just bolt the pipe on via the flat bar? The jaw lift on mine is shocking too, just have to take some off the top of the nut. I am having trouble setting 90deg, with the set screw not doing a thing (with the swivel casting against the base casting) i still did not have 90 out of the box. I've had to mess about with the guide bearing positions to get it right. Plus it depends on how far out the close guide is as to how square the blade is.....
    My apologies for being a bit behind (a seniors couple of weeks). MEW 187 is the edition on the Asian bandsaw/hacksaw 4 pages in total, most interesting in fact.
    Kryn

  4. #784
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,945

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    My latest project was a taper turning attachment for the lathe with micro adjustment, taken from Model Engineers Workshop. Ideal for turning Morse Tapers on a repeatable setting.
    Waiting on a new camera for pics.
    Kryn
    If anyone is interested, I've found the editions of Model Engineers Workshop that contain the details for the Taper Turning Attachment,
    178 and 179. I know someone asked about it but I forgot to look for them.
    Still no new camera. Santa didn't leave me one, must have been a bad boy!!!!!!!
    Kryn

  5. #785
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default Mew

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    If anyone is interested, I've found the editions of Model Engineers Workshop that contain the details for the Taper Turning Attachment,
    178 and 179. I know someone asked about it but I forgot to look for them.
    Still no new camera. Santa didn't leave me one, must have been a bad boy!!!!!!!
    Kryn
    Hi thanks for that

    Is there any way of finding those editions online ?

    Maybe the MEW website has more info . I will have a look there .

    Mike

  6. #786
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,945

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    Hi thanks for that

    Is there any way of finding those editions online ?

    Maybe the MEW website has more info . I will have a look there .

    Mike
    Hi Mike
    If you subscribe to the Magazine digitally, hard copy or both, they are available online.
    If you can't get hold of it, PM me and I'll send you a copy.
    Regards
    Kryn

  7. #787
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,112

    Default

    Further to the above, if you happen to be a subscriber you get free access to all the back issues back to issue number one. I find it a very good magazine and have been a subscriber for about 5 years now IIRC. Like any magazine, some months there's a lot in it I'm interested in, some months not so much. But each month there seems to be at least one thing I find interesting. It's not cheap, but then again if you consider the whole package (ie 13 issues per years and access to all previous issues) then I think it's good value. While I could always just photocopy the article if I have that magazine, I like the fact that I can print out a copy of the project and work from those drawings rather than taking the whole magazine down to the workshop and trashing it.

    Pete

  8. #788
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    I like the fact that I can print out a copy of the project and work from those drawings rather than taking the whole magazine down to the workshop and trashing it.

    Pete
    How about posting a few of those projects Pete?

    Dave

  9. #789
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Well now seems a good time to post these...

    Cannot remember whether I have mentioned them before..

    I made six of these rings out of large hollow bar... They were case hardened and then surface ground flat, the two in the middle are a matched pair, the one on the right unground...

    I sent one to El Gregor the mexican bandit and Phil (not Other Phil which is Steamwhisperer).. Although neither have mentioned receiving them so maybe they never got them... Or they thought them crap and threw them in the bin

    Generally they could be used for whatever they could be used for, tramming the mill was what I thought them good for, equally good for spacers or packing... I measured about 2 nanometers variation overall (beat that Josh ) then I woke up and measured 2 microns or thereabouts...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  10. #790
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    What diameter are they? And is that the same bar you used for the bandsaw clamps?

    Dave

  11. #791
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Well now seems a good time to post these...

    Cannot remember whether I have mentioned them before..

    I made six of these rings out of large hollow bar... They were case hardened and then surface ground flat, the two in the middle are a matched pair, the one on the right unground...

    I sent one to El Gregor the mexican bandit and Phil (not Other Phil which is Steamwhisperer).. Although neither have mentioned receiving them so maybe they never got them... Or they thought them crap and threw them in the bin

    Generally they could be used for whatever they could be used for, tramming the mill was what I thought them good for, equally good for spacers or packing... I measured about 2 nanometers variation overall (beat that Josh ) then I woke up and measured 2 microns or thereabouts...

    2 millimicrons is outta my league maybe we should start talking to these guys...






    Nice work by the way. What did you use for the case hardening?

  12. #792
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default Mill Draw Bar Changer-Revisited

    I originally made this impact driver tool changer back in 2009 and posted it here post #193. It has worked reasonably well but on occasions with one particular tool it sticks and I have to give the drive dogs a little tap with a brass hammer. I think the main problems are the impact driver cannot be held down firm enough and it is a bit small to dislodge the 40 series taper on this mill, it is also hard to control the amount of tightening.I felt it needed a redesign. I remember reading posts from DaveJ about his intention of fitting quick release tool changers to his mill, in his case two of them so I made contact with him, working on the theory that two heads are better than one. After going through all the issues Dave suggested fitting a Ball Thrust bearing my original set up had thick greased washers. I tried this it did improve it slightly but I still had the occasional hang up. Dave also mentioned that he had seen draw bars that were captured in place.
    It was time for another modification so I sketched up a new draw bar design and a thrust bearing housing that could be added to my existing design. This would enable me to change back if it did not improve the situation. After installing the new set up and giving it a test for the last week or so with all of my tooling I have had no hang ups. As the draw bar is now captured when undoing it, I have found that I can reduce the compressors line pressure down to 60 PSI instead of the 80 PSI of the original set up.
    A few photos and my sketch to help understand it. Thanks to DaveJ for his assistance. I have changed the impact drivers handle back to the original style as shown in the picture of the total assembly mounted on the top of the mill.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #793
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    Like I said in the email Bob, I like your design and your machining is really nice.

    Dave

  14. #794
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Nice job Bob, I love the air gun.

    ps. I still use an old milk crate

  15. #795
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Nothing very sophisticated here but it did involve milling drilling lathing welding and thinking. I needed to remove a 1935 Hudson steering wheel, the wheel is in very good condition so I had to be super cautious (overkill) in how I went about it. No new materials were harmed in the making of this puller.



    Victory!


    My 35 Hudson project arriving 2 years ago

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