Thread: Your latest project

Thanks Bob,

I had thought it was you that had been using ATF and I had started a fruitless search through the older posts to confirm it.

I have a handbook published in the '50s by Andre Bechler, a Swiss manufacturer of automatic screw machines. It contains a section on coolant. For small stuff that doesn't get too hot they recommend oil rather than water based coolant because it provides cutting tip lubrication. Water's heat removing ability is not required. They also mention the staining of bright machine parts arising from the use of water based coolant. Something I'm fearful of.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
One of the bad things about the water mix is it ends up in places that you cannot see, I removed the vice from my mill and found a puddle of it under the vice, I am sure if l had left it there for two long it would have developed into rust as it was it left a stain. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF (new oil)/ kerosine in a spray bottle when doing small jobs in aluminium on the mill/lathe and it is as good as the WD40 or Inox and cheaper. My old mate told me that the ATF/diesel mix was better for your diesel fuel pump as it provided much better lubrication than straight diesel.
Bob

Well i finally got a POS bandsaw.....
Well i guess its not that bad, but there are a few things needing fixing...the belt guard rubs on the motor pulley, and thats with it adjusted as far as it can go. The motor mount hinge is a joke, just 2 bolts through the casting and into the pressed mount. That would be fine except one of the bolts has 40 odd mm between the casting and the mount.....The switch wouldn't work out of the box.....the little rod that turns it off at the end of the cut had been pushing on the rubber cover for so long the rubber was pushing on the stop button so i could not start it.

Anyhow, i have been doing a small ally job (it was asked about on the forum) and decided rather than cut the holes out all on the mill i would do the cross cuts on the BS and mill the long cuts. It worked out well, although i did have to modify the end of the vice slot and make it a bit longer to fit the box in i made to hold the tube. It also really needs a thrust washer on the vice screw, it relies on a tiny shoulder against the cast iron base.
Milling was done with a 12mm 4 flute endmill, the feed was kept up and the finish is good enough for a light file and it will be done.

All in all i'm happy with the saw, i can see adding coolant will be easy, as the base already looks like a good tray, and the vice needs some work but what can you expect for the price?

Looks good, with the saw after a few tweaks and adjustments they are great.

When the next H&F sale comes around buy yourself a deburrer, I have 2 of the cheaper ones below and it saves heaps of time with the file.

D060 | Deburring Tool | machineryhouse.com.au

D061 | Pocket Clip Deburring Tool | machineryhouse.com.au


Dave

Not too bad Ewan,
Buying a bandsaw is like buying a Harley Davidson, It just isn't real until all the extras have been added. Customising I think it's called
I can assure you, you wont regret the purchase
By the way, great lateral thinking on machining the tube, but then I have come to expect nothing short of brilliance from your work.

Phil

Great band saw, I have one similar, you are right that the screw shaft needs something better, I turned the handle end of the shaft down to 12mm to suit the bearing I had on hand, welded a bit of pipe to a flat bar and turned it out to suit the OD of the bearing and then milled the flat to suit the inside edge of the BS, after a $4.00 handle from China it works fantastic. When cutting angles I made a 45degree block that slips in place as resetting the angle is a pain in the *#@e.
Model Engineers Workshop had an article on the BS, which has a base block to hold small pieces, a chute arrangement for the chips from the blade (which really helps keep the mess down) and couple of other items. Will try to find the edition number if required.
Kryn

Hi Kryn,
You wouldn't have any pics of the handle would you. It sounds like a great idea.

Phil

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Great band saw, I have one similar, you are right that the screw shaft needs something better, I turned the handle end of the shaft down to 12mm to suit the bearing I had on hand, welded a bit of pipe to a flat bar and turned it out to suit the OD of the bearing and then milled the flat to suit the inside edge of the BS, after a $4.00 handle from China it works fantastic. When cutting angles I made a 45degree block that slips in place as resetting the angle is a pain in the *#@e.
Model Engineers Workshop had an article on the BS, which has a base block to hold small pieces, a chute arrangement for the chips from the blade (which really helps keep the mess down) and couple of other items. Will try to find the edition number if required.
Kryn

Hi Kryn,
An edition number would be great. I had not thought about using a bearing, sounds like a good idea. Did you just bolt the pipe on via the flat bar? The jaw lift on mine is shocking too, just have to take some off the top of the nut. I am having trouble setting 90deg, with the set screw not doing a thing (with the swivel casting against the base casting) i still did not have 90 out of the box. I've had to mess about with the guide bearing positions to get it right. Plus it depends on how far out the close guide is as to how square the blade is.....

I have spent many minutes making assembling this today..

20130504_150941.jpg 20130504_150930.jpg

A draw bar hammer. I have seen the idea elsewhere and have been meaning to make one for years. The socket is just held in place with a 10mm bolt, some Loctite and a little wishful thinking. I may have to pin things together in the future but for now it seems to be holding well.

Jayson.

What's the benefit of a hammer wrench ?

I just loosen off the draw bar one turn, then tap gently on the end nut with a steel hammer with the lathe running.

Releases without fuss every time.

Rob

Originally Posted by nearnexus

What's the benefit of a hammer wrench ?

I just loosen off the draw bar one turn, then tap gently on the end nut with a steel hammer with the lathe running.

Releases without fuss every time.

Rob

It saves picking up the hammer,as you just turn it around, two tools in one.

Dave

Originally Posted by nearnexus

What's the benefit of a hammer wrench ?

I just loosen off the draw bar one turn, then tap gently on the end nut with a steel hammer with the lathe running.

Releases without fuss every time.

Rob

What Dave said, quicker to find one tool rather than two.

But, I don't quite understand the bit about the lathe running and a steel hammer?

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

What Dave said, quicker to find one tool rather than two.

But, I don't quite understand the bit about the lathe running and a steel hammer?

Regards
Ray

All my milling is done on the lathe

I use to turn the spindle by hand and tap on the draw bar nut with a hammer to release the Morse but it got your hands dirty and it's easier to run the lathe and tap it. Quite safe, everything stays in place.

Rubber mallet is no good as it won't release, has to be a sold hammer to jar it loose - steel is OK.

Rob

Originally Posted by nearnexus

All my milling is done on the lathe

I use to turn the spindle by hand and tap on the draw bar nut with a hammer to release the Morse but it got your hands dirty and it's easier to run the lathe and tap it. Quite safe, everything stays in place.

Rubber mallet is no good as it won't release, has to be a sold hammer to jar it loose - steel is OK.

Rob

Hi Rob,

Yes that makes sense now, I didn't realise you were milling in the lathe with a morse taper collet, and of course with morse tapers, you'd need the extra whack, with NT30 and other self releasing tapers, a firm tap with a nylon faced hammer is all that's needed.

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

NT30 and other self releasing tapers, a firm tap with a nylon faced hammer is all that's needed.

Regards
Ray

Most of the time any way