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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    HI Stuart,

    The cylinder was turned from 3/4" Brass square and it is the exhaust port you can see on the top. The steam chest goes on the flat face towards the top of the picture, on the side of the cylinder. Very frustrating weekend - breaking a total of three taps as I was starting to assemble on the base plate. Anyone know a way of removing a 10BA tap in 6mm steel?

    The Argus name plate that Graziano has done is for my first engine - the oscillator shown a few posts ago, and will be attached to the jarrah base it is on.

    Pete

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,225

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    Quote Originally Posted by WA Pete View Post
    HI Stuart,
    Anyone know a way of removing a 10BA tap in 6mm steel?
    Pete
    I had to look up what size 10BA was. good luck with that. Other than punching it right through and then fitting a threaded bush.
    Just a thought, is it a HSS or carbon tap?
    Stuart

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Stuart,

    Carbon tap. Rather than scrap the baseplate I have bolted the cylinder down via three of the four feet and will fake up the last fitting. The other bolts have been upped to M2 size as the 10BA (1.4mm diameter) seem to be too weak to go through the thickness of steel that is the baseplate. As I regards these two engines as my 'apprentice' work on the lathe/mill combination that I have I don't see them running that often so the stress will be minimal. Basically as long as they run I'll be happy and can continue on to the next project. Not the best policy really but with limited time and resources I have the most realistic.

    The next project however will have to be right - looking at building a Blowfly locomotive and riding car.

    Pete

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    3,352

    Default

    you guys really rub it in when you post pics of stuff you've made

    ...I think I should just stick to collecting tools, machines and accessories etc etc...i might not feel so bad

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,225

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    WA Pete
    Carbon. great. Could you heat the plate up, annealing the tap so you could drill it out?(never tried this, just a thought)

    Stuart

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,225

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    lol eskimo, I'd say thank you but as the engine I made doesnt work, so I'm not sure it counts? Although even if it never works it was a good excise in work holding, as all the parts were made on a lathe(with a small amount done on the vertical slide).
    Stuart

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Eskimo,

    If your talking to me - this is the first time i've used a lathe since high school back in the 1970's. My lathe arrived February this year. It's just a case of practise - and a very large scrap bin

    Mind you I keep the scrap as one day I would love to get into casting.

    Stuart - Might be worth thinking about - altough I wonder if it would warp the steel - I spent two days taking light cuts (all my machine can do) to level the plate!

    Pete

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,225

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    WA Pete hopefully someone that knows more about these things will turn up but, 300C might be enough(how hot does your overn go?), thats more tempering than annealing but maybe enough, we are only talking about one hole after all.
    As an added bonus about 300C should turn your plate a nice blue. I doubt it will move much.

    Anyone?

    Stuart

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    3,352

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WA Pete View Post
    Hi Eskimo,

    If your talking to me - this is the first time i've used a lathe since high school back in the 1970's. My lathe arrived February this year. It's just a case of practise - and a very large scrap bin

    Mind you I keep the scrap as one day I would love to get into casting.

    Stuart - Might be worth thinking about - although I wonder if it would warp the steel - I spent two days taking light cuts (all my machine can do) to level the plate!

    Pete
    Pete
    I am talking to all those who are showing off the great pieces of work...even if it doesnt work Stuart!.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default Finished!

    Well here is the finished engine on it's stand. The nameplate was by Graziano (see his thread here http://www.woodworkforums.com/f12/en...plates- 121349 )
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8,225

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    Nice.... Although you had me confused for awhile thinking it was your other engine.
    Whats the fitting on the exhast(?) port for?

    Did you get yoru tap out of the other engines plate?
    Stuart

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Stu,

    Havn't been out to the shed all week - suffering from the flu at the moment

    The fitting at the top is for attaching an air hose (at the moment I run on air not steam), with the other hole the exhaust. To run the engine in reverse you unscrew the hose adaptor and screw it into what was the exhaust, with the old inlet becoming the new exhaust.

    Clear as mud really

    Pete

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Armidale
    Age
    53
    Posts
    155

    Default

    This thread hasn't been updated for a while so I thought I might add to it.
    I have finally finished my first model engine - a Sterling engine. I started it months ago as a learning process for using my new lathe. It came as a kit of bar stock with working drawings. It wouldn't work initially and I left it for a month or so after completing the main body. Last week I decided to play with it and found that I could get it to work if I added lots of heat- in the form of a butane torch.
    With this info I then just aligned it better and used graphite as the lubricant in the cylinder. I then made the simple stand. It now runs with the metho burner.


    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=296Fr_dfdlo"]YouTube - Sterling_engine.MOV[/ame]
    Terry B
    Armidale

    The most ineffective workers will be systematically moved to the place where they can do the least damage - management.
    --The Dilbert Principle

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    434

    Default

    wow that looks it will be the center of much conversation and intrigue where did you buy the kit from?
    happy turning

    Patrick

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Armidale
    Age
    53
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by new_guy90 View Post
    wow that looks it will be the center of much conversation and intrigue where did you buy the kit from?
    The kit is one of these
    A1-3 Stirling Engine Material Kit (Model Maker Kit) - eBay Other Tools, Supplies, Tools, Supplies, Model Building, Toys, Hobbies. (end time 27-Sep-10 16:46:47 AEST)
    Bought before I cottoned on to the shill bidding problem see
    http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/wh...ctions-119867/
    Terry B
    Armidale

    The most ineffective workers will be systematically moved to the place where they can do the least damage - management.
    --The Dilbert Principle

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