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  1. #271
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    91

    Default

    thanks guys,

    yeah it is a polishing trick kraits, the top frame is mitred and welded as one piece, and the 4 legs butt welded on below, but the directional polish is done as if all the joins are mitred.

    I grind down and blend the welds with a fiber sanding disc at around 3,000rpm on a variable speed grinder, then further polish/remove the swirl marks with non-woven type surface conditioning discs on the same grinder (attaches to a hook & loop pad, i found all that stuff at trade tools)

    after that i take some shaft mounted surface conditioning wheels in a drill (100 grit followed by 180 grit) to give it the directional satin finish. the corners are masked off with thin sheet metal/shim stock/cut up bundy cans to get the mitre polish.

    up very close theres still some slightly visible swirl marks around the blending areas and i'm thinking a few more polishing steps with a random orbit sander might get rid of them, before the directional polishing is done, but i'll have to try that out and see


    Stu the last one was a birthday gift for a friend of mine- this current one is the first piece i've actually made for my place so it's nice to be able to keep it

  2. #272
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    CXA dovetail tool holder for 25mm shanks.









    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY8wZlTKxJw]PC151949.AVI - YouTube[/ame]








  3. #273
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne, laverton
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    one again i would hardly call that rough handling. they are great. how long did it take you to make all theses.
    well done. its hard to focus on a job that big. very impressive.
    aaron

  4. #274
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Nice job Bryan. Did you offset the dovetail for maximum support for the boring bar?

    Phil

  5. #275
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Bryan,

    The 25mm tool holder production line is about to get underway I see, have you noticed much difference with the 25mm tool holder? Finish quality etc?

    I had trouble with embedding a youtube video the other day, and I eventually put it down to the fact that it was a youtu.be url, which vbulletin's script didn't pick up, I should drop a note to the forum admins and see if they are aware of the issue..

    Let me try something...

    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY8wZlTKxJw&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]

    Hmmm ...Ok, didn't work, but worth a shot I suppose... ok, what if I take off the "&feature=youtu.be"

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HY8wZlTKxJw"]PC151949.AVI - YouTube[/ame]

    Bingo!

    Regards
    Ray

  6. #276
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Worked for me ray
    Actually the second one didn't. The one with all the 20%s.

    Phil

  7. #277
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    Hi Phil,

    The second one worked for me when I deleted the &feature=youtu.be bit at the end of the url...

    Did the first one work for you?

    Regards
    Ray

  8. #278
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    First one was great.
    This is on my phone

  9. #279
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Ray, thanks, I edited my post with that fix. Have to remember that.

    I haven't had a chance to use the holder yet. It won't be much of a comparison since it's the only insert holder I have, except for a parting tool. It came with the lathe and I'm looking forward to using it. But I only have one insert so I'll wait till I need it. If I like it I'll buy more.

    Aaron, I've only made one so far. The black ones are cheapies from CDCO. I just included them for comparison. They only take a 20mm shank. I plan to make some more but they will be smaller. Most will take a 3/8 HSS bit directly.

    Phil, I didn't put a great deal of thought into it to be honest. I just kind of make it proportional to the shank. And I didn't see any point having material hanging out the back doing nothing. When I came to the screw locations I had to make a decision.

    Still have to find a way to make some nice adjusting nuts without a knurler. That works.

  10. #280
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Still have to find a way to make some nice adjusting nuts without a knurler. That works.
    Hi Bryan,
    What if you chucked a piece of round and turned it to suit the bore of one of your change gears then drill and tap a hole in the end to suit the thread in the nuts to be knurled. Slide the gear on then a short piece of tube to clamp the gear, screw a piece of all-thread into the tapped hole, next a washer large enough to pickup the short piece of tube then a nut to clamp the gear in place. Put the nut to be knurled on next and lastly a nut to tighten against that. Set up a single point tool and proceed as though you are making the markings on a graduated collar. Use a piece of flat to fit between a gear tooth and the lathe bed for indexing. Of course this is if you only want a straight knurl.
    Hope you understand my description as lately I seem to be writing them from a parallel world.

    Phil

  11. #281
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

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    Bryan, would you like me to do a short length of bar 'pre-knurled' for you? As it's an adjusting nut concentricity is not vital, so I could do say 50mm of 25mm or there abouts bar for you if you like and then you can re-chuck to part off & finish.
    I bought 4 secondhand Aloris BXA holders the other day and on one most of the height adjustment stuff is missing. The only thing worth saving is the round (knurled) knob, so if you prefer you can have that if you like (diameter 25mm) although condition is certainly 'used'.

    Michael

  12. #282
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,542

    Default Just noticed something...

    My first set of QCTP holders was a Shars set, probably from the same factory as your CDCO ones.They were a pain to adjust because every time the lock nut was loosened, the adjusting knob would move with the nut.
    When I bought the CVA I got a second hand Aloris set for the tool post. They use a toothed washer between the knob and nut. The theory is that being keyed to the stud, the washer won't rotate and so the knob stays in the same position - it seems to work.
    I haven't been able to successfully reproduce those washers but Aloris do sell the adjusting mechanism as spares. There is no agency in Australia but they do sell direct out of the US.

    Michael
    Attachment 191447

  13. #283
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Thanks Michael & Phil (yes I did get the gist). I have a Cunning Plan. It involves a shaper and a rotary table. Actually similar to both of your ideas. Make a straight knurled bar and part off the nuts. Limited by how deep I can tap and how long I'm game to part. I do have some knurl wheels on order, and a straddle tool is on my list, but I do like the idea of having control over the spacing of the grooves. The shaper method will give that, albeit slowly.

    PS: Michael that's a neat solution with the keyed washer. And a very kind offer. Let me see how I go.

  14. #284
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
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    65
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    3,103

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Thanks Michael & Phil (yes I did get the gist). I have a Cunning Plan. It involves a shaper and a rotary table. Actually similar to both of your ideas. Make a straight knurled bar and part off the nuts. Limited by how deep I can tap and how long I'm game to part. I do have some knurl wheels on order, and a straddle tool is on my list, but I do like the idea of having control over the spacing of the grooves. The shaper method will give that, albeit slowly.

    PS: Michael that's a neat solution with the keyed washer. And a very kind offer. Let me see how I go.
    Hi Bryan
    gotta love the shaper. If you mounted your table 45 degrees to the line of the stroke and then rotated it 45 degrees the other side you could almost produce a diamond knurl.

    Phil

  15. #285
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Excellent work Bryan....

    So when are you going to make me a dozen CA holders for my lathe?
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

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