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  1. #2146
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    Jun 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    Jackaroo, that's really neat. What did you use for the bearing carrier? Is that from a car as well?

    Graham.
    Hi Graham,

    I bought that aluminium housing from Trash & Treasure for $5 a while ago. It has 60mm diameter internal for "T" connection so could be scaffolding or some sort?

    I am using 1/4" universal drive on the inside to act as coupling. It is welded to the shaft and the shaft is welded into the chuck backing plate but I can undo the thread at the motor end if I need to take everything apart.

    Regards,
    Trong
    Last edited by jackaroo; 31st Oct 2018 at 09:30 AM. Reason: adding more info

  2. #2147
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    67
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    362

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    I made a simple turntable for welding using wiper motor and the old car's wheel bearing I have but not yet putting it into test....


    Attachment 376551

    Attachment 376552

    I made a similar thing on the weekend, its very crude not as well made as yours.
    The motor came out of an old mig, connected that to 30/1 reduction box.
    In the pics its driving a set of rollers but I have a 8" 3 jaw I am going to set up so I can change the motor from one to the other.

    I was really surprised by how much torque these mig motors have.

    DSC05929 e.jpg



    DSC05932 e.jpg

  3. #2148
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    Jun 2007
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    Vic
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    Hi "bts" your motor looks very similar to the wiper motor, I think it has worm gear inside too. I was going to use the 1:40 reduction gearbox too but that will be too bulky, the voltage regulator on the power pack seems to be working ok without the reduction gearbox. The bearing I have is double row, here is the "inside".

    Regards,
    Trong

    20181031_180036.jpg

    20181031_180041.jpg

  4. #2149
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    67
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    Looks good there Trong.
    The motors do look very similar but going by the speed yours seems to go down to the gearing between the two must be completely different.
    The mig motor runs from 7 rpm at 2 volts up to 218 at 38 volts. To fast for a welding jig at least for me and slow speed is very touchy to control.
    The 30/1 reduction gets it down to 7.2 at 38v.
    Rummaging around one of the junk boxes I found another box, 15/1. Very compact unit.
    I had to see how it would go.

    DSC05937 e.jpg


    Checking rpm v`s voltage

    DSC05936 e.jpg

    Very good control from .5 rpm at 2v up to 15 rpm at 38v. It will probable suit my needs better if I can ever find the bits to build the rotating chuck.

    Tony

  5. #2150
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    67
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    362

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    Had a bit of a thought walking past the sandblaster this morning. So I bolted the motor and reduction box to the side added an extension shaft, a modified old bracket from something long ago to mount the gun and there you go semi auto sandblasting.

    DSC05944e.jpg


    Ok semi auto is stretching it a bit but as luck would have it the wheel crept a bit from right to left as it rotated giving surprisingly good result.

    DSC05961e.jpg

    This first wheel had been blasted years ago so it only had some surface rust on it, not a true indication so another was done.

    Before

    DSC05970 e.jpg

    After

    DSC05972e.jpg

    Shows some promise.


    Tony

  6. #2151
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Wow r3292c, awesome work.
    Would love to see details of your cnc lathe.

  7. #2152
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Wodonga Vic
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    38
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    633

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    Building a new stand for the Hafco AL330A, it stands 840 high, there's not much worse than a lathe sitting too low.

    DSC_1031.jpg

  8. #2153
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    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    67
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    The neighbour donated a wiper motor to blaster cause. (Patrol rear window I think)

    DSC05984 e.jpg

    DSC05982 e.jpg

    Made up some very dodgy linkages and fittings to make a reciprocating (or is that oscillating) gun holder.

    DSC06001 e.jpg

    DSC06005e.jpg


    The motor drives a too fast so ended up with reasonably good cleaning on the inner and outer edges but streaky in the middle.

    DSC05991 e.jpg


    Anyway gives me some food for thought while it goes into the too hard bin for the moment.

  9. #2154
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,436

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    Hi Bts,

    If you can reduce the voltage to the motor it will slow down. A variable voltage PSU is ideal for this. Alternatively you could try a side light or other vehicle bulb in series with the motor, which will reduce the voltage and thus slow the motor down.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #2155
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

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    Try a PWM motor controller they are cheap and easy to work with. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-DC-6...DedP:rk:8:pf:0

    Wouldn't mind seeing a video of this in action.

  11. #2156
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    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    Power to both motors are controlled by the DIY variable control units off to the lower left.

    DSC05988 e.jpg

    Black box -40-0-+40 volts, 8 amp. The other -24-0-+24 vdc, 3 amp. They where built for my Audio building. When things progress I will build some more suited units.

    The motor controlling the gun movement is down to approx 2.5 volts, any less and the motor will stall.
    At 2.5 v it takes approx 14 seconds to do a complete cycle.

    Taking out non-traveling time, surface travel speed through the arc is approx 40 mm/sec. In some manual tests I have done 10 mm/sec surface speed seems to give good results. Of coarse this all depends on what you are trying to remove.

    I pulled the cover off the motor//box last night to see if I could fit a reduction box, it will be easier to find another mig motor or a wiper motor with out the recip conversion on it.

    Tony

  12. #2157
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    Jan 2016
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    Wodonga Vic
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    38
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    633

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    It does the Job, think I'll add a shelf in the middle as well as the bottom though

    DSC_1032.jpg

  13. #2158
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,105

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    Should do the job, are you going to add any levelling feet to it? Also could add some tooling storage while you are at it

  14. #2159
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Wodonga Vic
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    I might add the levelling feet at a later stage, I could definitely use some extra storage under the lathe

  15. #2160
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

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    Going to make a spindle adapter for my little G&L 25 horizontal borer, It will just be a lump of cast iron with T-Slots bolted onto the spindle nose so other things can be attached.

    Got a piece of 210mm OD round cast iron, I ordered a 75mm long piece, they sent me a piece 100mm long one side and 125mm the other. They must have cut it with a hacksaw to get it so crooked.

    Have cleaned it up a bit and drilled a 2" hole through the centre. Got a bit more efficient, while I was facing off the crooked cut, I drilled the 2" hole.

    20181109_181912.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

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