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  1. #2101
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,558

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Ive had this piece of heavy thick walled (about 30mm) pipe laying around in the dirt for a few years. Never really thought I would use it and was going to take it to scrap metal.

    It then occured to me that now I have a mill that can both nod the head and tilt the head that I may be tramming the head more often than I have done in the past. tilting my geared head mill is nothing short of a PITA since tramming requires tapping the head with a mallet until it's close, whereas the bridgeport clones actually have a worm gear for adjustment, making it a bit easier. Simon
    Simon, just a thought, with a piece of what you used, would it be possible to make a gear and worm to adjust the nod/tilt of your mill head?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #2102
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,847

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    Hi Kryn,

    Im sure it could be done but it would be alot of work for a small gain. I now have a bridgeport clone (Pacific or Lagun in US) which has these features and i will soon be using it for all my work.

    Cheers

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #2103
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    3,558

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    As I said, it was just a thought, not realising you have a decent mill.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #2104
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,847

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    I managed 0.0003" Josh improved on that a touch! A Simple Tramming Ring for the Mill.
    Thats insane. I really didnt know you could get to that level of accuracy without a controlled evironment.

    Neither me or my SG are capable of those measurements. I think ill have to be satisfied with what i have. I do have ring envy though!

    Thanks for the link Bob!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #2105
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    1,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    I managed to get it flat (according to my 2um DTI) to within 0.008mm.
    Isn’t that very close to the 0.0003” that Bob got?
    Chris

  6. #2106
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,847

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    Hi Jack, yea its pretty close but when you look at what Josh achieved at 0.000025mm its an order of magnitude better again!

    I think i can improve on my results if i wanted using the SG and definately improve it if i handscraped it but for what it will be used for its fine for my use.

    Sometimes its fun and rewarding achieving such levels of accuracy even if its not entirely necessary!

    Simon


    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #2107
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    1,942

    Default

    My mistake Simon. I didn’t realise you were referring to the tramming ring in the video. I should pay more attention!
    Chris

  8. #2108
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    606

    Default Rotary Table : WIP

    January this year : I was lucky to be first online after Joe88 offered a kit for building a rotary table Rotary Table - Unfinished Project 98% complete only a couple of minor jobs to do.

    Finally got around to it today, bored the hole for the wormscrew.

    Yes, it is egg shaped, because I bored the hole in the wrong place and had to 'odge it across a bit.

    Did that fairly carefully and although hole is egg shaped the screw is a snug fit between wormwheel and "other side" of bored hole. Put a screw through the block and into the collar to secure the collar and make sure the wormscrew couldn't back out of the hole.

    18 turns of the handle turns it 360 degrees =20 degrees per revolution.

    All I have to do now is scratch the graduations on the knob.

    How does one lubricate these things ? Is it a puddle of oil in the bottom of the bored hole or a heap of grease ?

    Made a tiny little swarf grabber from a piece of dowel, a magnet and a dried up permanent marker - far far better than simply flicking the mess somewhere else with a paintbrush. Just as easy to pick it with the grabber and dump it in the bin.

    Happy Winter to you ....... WormscrewAndBlock.JPGLoosely Assembled.JPGAnglePlateIndex.JPGMiniSwarfGrabber.JPG

  9. #2109
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    606

    Default Graduated the Knob

    Ongoing Rotary Table WIP (promised Joe88 I'd write it up as a WIP)



    1. 120 graduations on 1.75” knob


    First few photos are the graduating setup – used the CGTK website to calculate and print the dividing guide, laminated it then mounted it between the chuck and a thin Aluminium plate. Didn’t lock the spindle -was only doing scratches not machining, 60 degree threadcutting bit mounted on boring bar at full extent to do the scratching. Pushed the tool in 0.050”after touching workpiece.


    Mistakes Made :
    Lines are a bit thick ? Try using a sharper cutting bit next time > 30 degree instead of 60 ?
    Bit too gung ho winding the carriage and slowly shunted the carriage depth stop along the ways and the lines slowly got longer
    Decided to go around again and extend the major lines but it looks a bit daggy and obvious – do it once and do it properly – spend a bit more time thinking at the start.



    When I assembled everything and tried it I noticed the main table was a sloppy fit on the subtable, and this was contributing to backlash,



    2. Shimmed the main table to fit tight on the subtable.


    a couple of shims identified that the hole in the subtable is 0.008” oversize – lucky ! My Solo tin shims are exactly 0.004” so I cut a strip of Solo tin and wrapped it around the stub of the main table for a perfect fit, I didnt know what to do and faffed around for a while.


    …...was a very awkward job…... because of limited room to work inside the hollow part of subtable - see photo – is there a standard way of doing this ? Got it done eventually.



    Almost but not quite zero backlash now. Next job mount block onto base plate or mount the block straight onto mill table - Not sure what is best here. Need to ponder.

    Its got one flat side so I can tip it on its edge and use it as a dividing head, I think I can mount dividing plates if I take the graduated knob off.


    Apologies for large filke sizes, have just changed to Linux and the screen captur makes very big files compared to WIndows
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #2110
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    53
    Posts
    4,804

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steamingbill View Post
    ...
    Bit too gung ho winding the carriage and slowly shunted the carriage depth stop along the ways and the lines slowly got longer
    Decided to go around again and extend the major lines but it looks a bit daggy and obvious – do it once and do it properly – spend a bit more time thinking at the start.
    ...
    Have a look here Graduated Circumfral markings

    It shows an engraving device that I made up and have used for several jobs. The key thing for you though is that it uses some strips of material to control the length of the lines. You might be able to devise something that uses that same idea to get all the lengths the same.

    Michael

  11. #2111
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,045

    Default

    Hi SteamingBill,

    Nicely done ! A rotary table is a very useful addition to the workshop.

    Re Linux, I use "KolourPaint" to edit my pictures.
    Best Regards:
    BaronJ.

  12. #2112
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,266

    Default

    I made a scraper . Hope it works out OK , I followed Stefan Gotteswinter's tutorial . I found the wooden handle in the op shop, two for a dollar , I think they are bed end ornaments or similar !

    P1010005.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #2113
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Horsham
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Well, I don't come here very often anymore but thought I should post about my latest project. Back in March 2012 .RC. asked about Magnabend hinges as he wanted to make a folder. I was already doing the same... fast forward to August 2018 and I finally have it finished. Yes 6 1/2 years later it's (mostly) finished.

    20180826_140025.jpg

    I have documented the process in pictures on my website here (link). Most of the pictures do have a brief description of whats going on in case you would like to know what in the world I'm up to.
    I used the information available on the Magnabend inventors website here (link) and have been corresponding with him over the past few years to help the project along. He was very helpful and without his help I doubt I could have gotten to this stage.

    Cheers,

    Jayson

  14. #2114
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,847

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    Nice work Jayson and from the pictures there was a lot involved in making the Magnabend.I like the decaling you did!

    Edit: I assume many of the parts (including the hinges) were made on your CNC mill. Did you write the DFX files yourself or did the dude from Magnabend supply all that for you? It was nice of them to help you.

    Also, bit off topic but in a couple of months I should receive my surface plate. I will be scrapeing the Macson shaper I bought from you.

    Cheers mate, great to hear from you.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #2115
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Horsham
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Hi Simon,

    I do enjoy descaling metal like that ...
    Almost all the parts were made on the mill. I was supplied a scan of the original drawings of the hinge parts that I then redrew and modeled in cad.
    CNC makes things repeatable but not necessarily faster in my case. Each hinge took roughly 11 hours to make. I have no idea where the time went but it sure added up quickly. Hinges can be purchased for just under $300 each and these were by far the most time consuming part, but if I were to do it all again I would still make the hinges...
    It was great that Alan , the Magnabend inventor, was willing to help, it sure mage things easier.

    Good to hear your about to start on the Macson, I will let Harty (that you purchased it from) know )

    Cheers,

    Jayson

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