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  1. #1531
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default Spin Indexer

    Following on from my earlier post I have made up and fitted the parts to control the end float on this indexer. I had a couple of short pieces of steel bar in stock one is 4130 grade, used to make the threaded bush and the larger piece of unknown specification that I used to make the two knurled lock rings. Both pieces machined up OK the 4130 was slightly harder. The threaded bush is held in place by two 5mm grub screws threaded right through.The thread is metric 1mm pitch.
    I am considering adding some "blueing" style coating to try and match the finish on the other parts of the indexer. I have a bottle of Birchwood Casey Super Blue that I have tried previously with poor results.I think heating the parts up to dunk in old engine oil would result in distortion in this situation, so that method is out. Any other suggestions for "Blueing" would be appreciated .
    Bob
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  2. #1532
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,074

    Default Spin Indexer

    Hi Krisfarm,

    Nice machining of those parts.

    That blueing solution is next to useless, I find it rubs off very easily.

    I just wish someone could come up with a cold solution that really works. Something like anodizing would be neat.

    Ken

  3. #1533
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    54
    Posts
    825

    Default

    Very nice job Bob, the knurls have come up beautifully.
    When I blue things like this I just use use an LPG torch to heat it until it turns the shade of blue I'm after then dunk it in old diesel oil. The trick is not to let it get too hot and go past purple or you will loose the colour. This process doesn't give a very deep colour skin but I find it durable enough and with a bit of practice you can get some nice colour patterns. The other advantage is that it doesn't get hot enough to cause any real distortion.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  4. #1534
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Following on from my earlier post I have made up and fitted the parts to control the end float on this indexer. I had a couple of short pieces of steel bar in stock one is 4130 grade, used to make the threaded bush and the larger piece of unknown specification that I used to make the two knurled lock rings. Both pieces machined up OK the 4130 was slightly harder. The threaded bush is held in place by two 5mm grub screws threaded right through.The thread is metric 1mm pitch.
    I am considering adding some "blueing" style coating to try and match the finish on the other parts of the indexer. I have a bottle of Birchwood Casey Super Blue that I have tried previously with poor results.I think heating the parts up to dunk in old engine oil would result in distortion in this situation, so that method is out. Any other suggestions for "Blueing" would be appreciated .
    Bob
    Superb knurling Bob.

    I do as Greg does with the torch but I use Blackfast also - http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...28#post1217328

    How does 4130 compare with 4140?

    Bob.

  5. #1535
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Very nice work Bob.

    Same question and AB how does 4130 compare to 4140?

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #1536
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Hi Ken ,Greg, Bob & Simon
    Thanks for your reply's.

    Ken- I am with you on that Gun Blue, I have tried it different ways including heating the part, applying multiple layers and it still looks bad.

    Greg- I am concerned about heat distorting the part it is a firm push fit at the moment and I do not want to loose that.

    Bob & Simon-I remember your post on that Blackfast you used but I could not remember the product name and could not find your original post with a quick search. I just reread it, I don't do enough "Blueing" to warrant buying that kit. The engineering shop I picked up that piece of bar from told me it was 4130, I have only used 4130 in tube material before, it may be 4140, the place I got from was very untidy. It is fairly hard, I used insert tooling,it then machined very well, originally it was around 60mm outside diameter and I reduced the OD quickly down to 55mm. Initially running the lathe at 350rpm with a depth of cut off 1.117mm and a feed rate 0.125mm, this produced a fairly good finish,light brown chips .To finish it to down to final size I reduced the DOC to 0.25mm and feed to 0.068 and the finish was mirror like,chips were mid brown colour.Boring the ID I increased the RPM to 500 and DOC 0.125 and feed 0.068 for the final cuts this also produced a really good finish and turned the chips a deep blue, perhaps a bit too fast.
    Bob

  7. #1537
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wimmera
    Age
    51
    Posts
    369

    Default

    Hi Krisfarm
    the knurls have come our real nice
    in case you go down the heat path to get an even heat colour i put the part on a peice of aluminium about 5 mm thick and heat that from the bottom and let the heat transfer through to the part that way you have a more even heat to the part slow and steady

    cheers
    Harty

  8. #1538
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default

    Harty
    Thanks for the tip on the aluminium plate for heat distribution. I will have do a little test piece and check it out. Just had a look at that Holbrook lathe, they sure are solid looking and you have cleaned it all up nice.
    Bob

  9. #1539
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    I have just put a new gear knob on my HJ60 Toyota. I had done a body restoration with new upholstery about 3 years ago and only now did something about the gear knob. It was on Ebay. It is a "man sized" piece made of Aluminium and powder coated black with engraving that is red. It looks OK and certainly does the job but.....its bloody cold on these frosty mornings and probably red hot in summer. It was only $10 and yes you get what you pay for. It came with 3 plastic inserts to fit gear sticks down to 8mm but the Landcruiser had 12mm. The thread in the insert was fine but the very fine thread in the knob needed many layers of thread tape. After a couple of tries it is now quite snug on the gear lever. I don't wear a wedding ring these days so it will be interesting finding out how the powder coat will stand up in use
    should get one made out of wood
    any turner could do it for you

    wouldn't be as cold in winter
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  10. #1540
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    644

    Default Spin Indexer

    The 5C/ER32 adaptor designed by John Stevenson arrived, looks to be well made,much nicer threads and machining finish than the Indexer.I mounted the indexer in the mills vice and took a reading of the run out on the 5C taper 0.02mm, this is 0.01mm above the specification shown in the "Technical Documents". I fitted the ER32 adaptor and checked the run out at the taper,this point is 35mm further out, it read 0.03mm. This is slightly less than specifications which show 0.03mm at 25mm. I did a test cut on a piece of 16mm bright bar,cut a hexagon and a square, both came out nice. The indexer is fairly rigid when preforming light cuts. The advantage of not having to buy a set of 5C collets and having the extra clearance from the division plate will work nicely.
    Bob
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  11. #1541
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    I have an electric winch mounted on the beam above my lathe and mill. Yesterday I ran a length of cable across the shed next to the beam and suspended the electrical cord/extension from it.

    Winch.jpg

    4 Jaw Chuck in Storage.jpg I have arranged a storage position for my 4 jaw Chuck. There is a length of 50mm SHS steel bolted to the back of the lathe splash guard. This is in line with the winch which is in line with the lathe spindle mount. 2 of the cam lock pins fit into holes in the SHS. The chuck is held in place by a lever that is under quite a lot of tension from a spring. I will mount the 3 Jaw Chuck above this.

    Compressor Air Tanks.jpg A while ago I mentioned the air tank on my cheap direct drive compressor had started leaking due to rust. We have acquired an old bus. It is mostly scrap. It has an old rudimentary form of air brakes. These are the tanks from it. I have started attaching legs. The tanks are upside down. The rear legs have holes for the wheels off the compressor. On the welding bench next to the tanks is a length of red SHS which will mount to the front cross bar as the third leg. A hdpe foot will be turned to fit in the bottom.

    The bus has an Auto LPG gas tank about 3/8 full. It is a big tank. It also has a petrol tank that is about 3/4 full of what seems to be very old stale fuel. It is totally clear and has little smell. Iam not sure what to do with the petrol. I am trying to think of uses for a big fuel tank.

    Dean

  12. #1542
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I am not sure what to do with the petrol. I am trying to think of uses for a big fuel tank. Dean
    Hi Dean, pity that Canberra is so far away, could've taken it into the basement there, and had some fun!!!!!!!!How about another fuel trailer for the farm????
    Kryn

  13. #1543
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Kimberley, West Australia
    Posts
    176

    Default Winch-----or hoist?

    Hi Oldneweng,
    you say you have a winch there, but I hope it is a hoist. They are not necessarily interchangeable. A winch will have some rudimentary braking in the lowering (pay out) position, but it may only be a crude overrun device which can overheat or fail in an unsafe mode.
    A hoist will be capable of lowering its full rated load over its full distance without distress or danger, and any failure should be in a safe mode. Hope you stay safe there,
    Combustor.
    Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.

  14. #1544
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Hi Dean, pity that Canberra is so far away, could've taken it into the basement there, and had some fun!!!!!!!!How about another fuel trailer for the farm????
    Kryn
    Would it still ignite? I am planning on testing a sample to see at some stage. There is about 90l at a rough guess. That would be fun in a basement.

    I did think about diesel storage, but I probably don't need to have it portable. We have SWMBO's Rodeo, a farm only diesel 4wd and tractor. Not hard to keep them fueled.

    Quote Originally Posted by Combustor View Post
    Hi Oldneweng,
    you say you have a winch there, but I hope it is a hoist. They are not necessarily interchangeable. A winch will have some rudimentary braking in the lowering (pay out) position, but it may only be a crude overrun device which can overheat or fail in an unsafe mode.
    A hoist will be capable of lowering its full rated load over its full distance without distress or danger, and any failure should be in a safe mode. Hope you stay safe there,
    Combustor.
    Good point lol. It is a hoist. I searched for winch on EBay and kept calling it that. They are listed as both for amateurs like me.

    It is unlikely to have much weight on it anyway. The 4 Jaw may well be the most it has to lift.

    I forgot to mention that it is a 125kg "Hoist" with the extra sheave/pulley utilised to give it a 250kg capacity and a slower lift/lower rate which is better suited to the job.

    Dean

  15. #1545
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Kimberley, West Australia
    Posts
    176

    Default Winch-----or hoist?

    Hi again Dean,
    Good to know you are all safe there, and yes that extra sheave will give you an extra margin and make it a lot more controllable, regards,
    Combustor.
    Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.

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