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  1. #2086
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    Hi Simon & BobL,
    I saw both of your posts and saw you referring to "Kris" had me confused for a moment. Bob is my name. The mist oilers I have set up are these I purchased from Bangood.

    https://www.banggood.com/Mist-Coolan...r_warehouse=CN

    They work perfectly straight out of the box, all I did was make up the magnetic bases for them, As you can see from the photos you do need a shut off valve and some supply hose and fittings. I used a two litre milk bottle as my ATF/Kerosine mix supply and run both the mill and lathe from this supply. In use you do not use a lot of oil. I have my compressor regulated down to 40 psi at the compressor and then control the flow at the mister. Having both an air and oil control valve at the mister makes it easy to adjust. As BobL has pointed out you can direct the flow of either air or air/oil mix right at the cutting edge which is very effective at blowing away your chips to save re cutting them which increases tool life. I found for most that for most of my turning the oil supply is nearly off, the mist is that fine that you have to put a piece of paper under the nozzle and wait to see a oil stain build up. For heavy depth of cuts 2mm and above I increase the oil flow to suit to improve cooling. As for filling the shop with mist this is not required at all. I point my nozzle above the work pointing downwards so that the chips and air/oil mix end up in the chip tray.The mister makes very little mess compared to flood oiling.
    Bob

  2. #2087
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    Aug 2011
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    Hi Bob, Sorry for calling you Chris, I must have had a moment of confusion between your name and username!

    Anyway, so I assume you still have and use a flood coolant system from time to time? How do you keep the fluids separate? Does the mist system use such little oil that it's just a matter of wiping it up before it drsains into the coolant system or do you use some other method to ensure the oil does not drain into the water soluble coolant?

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #2088
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    Hi Simon,
    Yes I do still have my flood coolant system on my lathe and mill. I have not used it on the lathe since I installed the mister system, on the mill if I am doing a heavy cut, like using a 16mm roughing end mill cutting 12 mm or so deep I use the flood system as it can carry the heavy swarf away and cool the tooling.I find the air/oil mister has enough adjustment available to handle everything else.I do not use water based coolant as I found rust spots had started to develop under my mill vise. I swapped over to using ATF oil as the coolant on both mill and lathe a few years ago. The mister system does not use a lot of fluid and any run off ends up in the swarf tray of both machines, which then drains back into each machines sump.If I can help you any further just ask.
    Bob

  4. #2089
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Anyway, so I assume you still have and use a flood coolant system from time to time? How do you keep the fluids separate? Does the mist system use such little oil that it's just a matter of wiping it up before it drsains into the coolant system or do you use some other method to ensure the oil does not drain into the water soluble coolant?
    You can use regular water soluble coolant (WSC) as the coolant in a misting system so you don't need to worry about mixing different types of oils.
    The WSC will need to be filtered to prevent the mixer getting clogged with gunk but many mixers come with filters or you can set one up yourself.

    I have just ordered two mixers, but intend to keep flood cooling on my machines for the time being and just in case. On the mill where I'm setting up coolant for the first time I'm using ATF for both flood and mist so I don't need to worry about mixing different coolants. ATF is supposed to be cleaner than WSC and I hate cleaning scummy coolant tanks but I wonder about an ATF system doing a dump on the floor of the shed. With WSC the water evaps and leaves a thin film of oil - with ATF well . . . . . .

  5. #2090
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    I spent hours jet washing, drying and jet washing again to get the sump of my mill clean when I first got it. It's clean enough to eat off now but I'm yet to get the coolant system up and running and I really don't look forward to having to clean it again given the sump is cast into the base and very difficult to access without dismantling the machine. I wonder if I go straight to ATF whether it may be a little better at staying clean? The mill was built in the 1970's so I assume I cleaned out 40 years of use in a factory so maybe it won't get so bad in a home shop environment?

    OK. Someone talk me out of using ATF as a coolant inleu of the usual water soluable milky stuff I use on my bandsaw.....

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #2091
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    simonl: If you have a quick read though this thread it may talk you out of it.

    Automatic Transmission Fluid for Lathe Coolant?

  7. #2092
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    simonl: If you have a quick read though this thread it may talk you out of it.
    Automatic Transmission Fluid for Lathe Coolant?
    While I am not 100% convinced about using ATF as the sole coolant on MW machinery, some of the arguments against using ATF in the PM thread are just plain wrong.
    The business about ATF oil hardening metal is plain nonsense.
    The suggestion that it won't provide enough cooling capacity is poorly argued. Given ATF has 78% of the cooling capacity of pure water it should be able to provide more than adequate cooling in most situations. Thing of how much heat hot oil can carry and why an oil burn is so dangerous - well the same applies in reverse meaning it can carry away considerable heat.
    The argument about ATF being a good lubricant hence a poor cutting oil is perhaps a stronger argument. But lots of good lubes are also good cutting fluid including animal fats. The only way to determine this is to try it out.

    I figure the ATF itself is costing me nothing and the mister is costing less than $20 so ATF is worth a try and if ATF does not live up to the hype then I will use the mister with a different coolant. The major change for me will not be the coolant but the misting approach. What I end up using is sort of secondary.

    Anyway It's not an ATF oil or nothing approach situation. As Krisfarm says a mister can be used that draws draws coolant like ATF from a separate small container like a 2L milk bottle for some jobs and a regular WSO flood coolant system can be used for other jobs. WSO coolant systems are already highly contaminated with way and gear oil anyway so if a bit of ATF gets into the sump it's not going to make much of a difference.

  8. #2093
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    Hi simonl,
    Over the years I have found that a lot of information found on PM and other forum sites just does not stand up. As BobL has pointed out. Just try the ATF for yourself and judge it in your application, as far as I can see no one on this forum has a professional CNC workshop that needs to extract the maximum amount of heat from the work. One thing that ATF will not do is rust your machinery or go rancid in your lathe/mills sump.I also had to do the same job you described cleaning out my lathe sump-never again.
    Bob

  9. #2094
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    Hi,

    I too read that thread against using ATF. While I am yet to decide, some of the arguments for not using ATF just don't add up. It seems to me that people form an opnion about something and then try to back it up with ridiculous "facts"

    I'm not totslly sold on using ATF over WSC but if people want to give it a try then why not? I don't think it will be a life changing decision either way, it all comes down to what personal preference is and what works best for each person.

    I'm also not totally sold on the idea that Fogblaster is better because it does not atomise the mist. I think you can probably get similar results using the cheapie systems. After all, the injection of the coolant into the air stream is done using a venturi principle in both setups so I don't see why one would be that much different to the other.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #2095
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    Ive had this piece of heavy thick walled (about 30mm) pipe laying around in the dirt for a few years. Never really thought I would use it and was going to take it to scrap metal.

    It then occured to me that now I have a mill that can both nod the head and tilt the head that I may be tramming the head more often than I have done in the past. tilting my geared head mill is nothing short of a PITA since tramming requires tapping the head with a mallet until it's close, whereas the bridgeport clones actually have a worm gear for adjustment, making it a bit easier.

    Anyway, so I cleaned this ring up on the lathe and then licked it on the SG. Actually it required more than a lick as facing on the lathe really shows up the concave nature of facing.

    Anyway, it came out OK. I managed to get it flat (according to my 2um DTI) to within 0.008mm. I was hoping for a little better since I took a bit of time grinding and dressing the wheel couple of times but I will be more than sufficient for tramming the mill.

    I gave it a coat of paint to make it look like a bought one!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #2096
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    Heres a pic.



    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #2097
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    Nice Simon.

    Rod, Ray and Josh provided me with mine. Invaluable on the dexterous 13 with its universal table.

    007 (Large).JPG

    BT

  13. #2098
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    Thanks BT.

    How flat is yours?

    Should i aim for better than i have?

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #2099
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    I managed 0.0003" Josh improved on that a touch! //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1664...84#post1615984

  15. #2100
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Ive had this piece of heavy thick walled (about 30mm) pipe laying around in the dirt for a few years. Never really thought I would use it and was going to take it to scrap metal.

    It then occured to me that now I have a mill that can both nod the head and tilt the head that I may be tramming the head more often than I have done in the past. tilting my geared head mill is nothing short of a PITA since tramming requires tapping the head with a mallet until it's close, whereas the bridgeport clones actually have a worm gear for adjustment, making it a bit easier. Simon
    Simon, just a thought, with a piece of what you used, would it be possible to make a gear and worm to adjust the nod/tilt of your mill head?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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