Thread: Your latest project

Originally Posted by Machtool

That Hiab must have just about paid for its self by now?

Do you have a wind mill to service that. Tell me you were leaning into the wind or some thing, that tank doesn't look level.

I can send you up some Graffiti Vandals / Urban Artist's. They will have that looking like a New York subway in the 10 minutes past 2.00 am.

Regards Phil.

While it may not look level, the spirit level says it is and yes it has a mill to pump water into it, but it is a couple of hundred metres away. I was trying to count the number of windmills that crane has pulled down or put up. I think it is seventeen so far. Most of them were various neighbours ones.

Originally Posted by Ropetangler

I would have thought so too Phil, but it looks like he's running the space saver tire on the LH rear.

ahh well, I got a flat tyre on another truck and rather then buy a tyre, I "borrowed" one off this one.

Originally Posted by .RC.

Tank in place. Only thing that has gone wrong is the colour of the tank. Not my sort of colour it is too bland.

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Man that is handy crane to have around . My Brother built concrete tanks some years ago he was Atlas Tanks . If the steel is clean and it's poured correctly they do last a long time.

I got given this light by ta mate. It was from the hospital that they are replacing.

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My son was in hospital yesterday and I pointed to the light and said I needed that for the lathe and mill. You beat me to it 😎

Sent from my SM-T355Y using Tapatalk

Great light, I missed a chance to get some when they remodeled the local doctors surgery, have my name down for some, when they are replaced in another surgery.
Kryn

Originally Posted by Michael G

You'd think that wouldn't you, but no...
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Michael

Nobody is going to steal that one unless they are colour blind.

Hercus or a South Bend in the background there?

It's Hercus ATM-260 short bed StrayAlien.

No, I'm not too tight to buy one, it's just enjoyable. Making more hold-downs now that I know they will work.

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Originally Posted by .RC.

Tank in place. Only thing that has gone wrong is the colour of the tank. Not my sort of colour it is too bland.

Attachment 368062

I take it then ,that light red was unavailable?
Grahame

I just looked at how many smileys there are here....how do you
people get anything done ?



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Surprise, surprise, more RT/pancake die projects. Both dies are made from 5/64" thick 0-1 tool steel, hardened and tempered.
The guitar pieces are 18 ga. (1mm) sterling silver. The pic with stuff in a cardboard flat shows the (aluminum and copper) jig I
made to hold the guitars for polishing . They just rest down in the recess ; it's a two-sided deal, with left and right holders
for making earring pairs .


The Lily was a commission job for Timber Bay Home and Garden , out of Maine, USA.
The cutting and embossing is done all in one pressing , utilizing a 1/2" thick Nylon base plate that has the negative lines
melted and carved into it. The embossing wires are made of 22 ga. and 24 ga. nickel silver round wire, and soldered onto the
face of the pancake die with super easy (56) silver brazing solder.

As an aside, conventional wisdom says you can't heat up
hardened tools past where they were tempered at, or the temper will be lost. I've found this not to be a no-exceptions rule,
as I've done maybe a couple hundred similar dies where I silver solder these dies, and the instances of dies being ruined are
practically non-existent. Part of that is because not many people use these dies enough to wear them out, but a lot is also because
some of the hardness is retained. Annealing this steel takes hours and it has to be heated close to it's quenching temperature , then
cooled very slowly , to get the full anneal. Also, most tempering -or loss of temper upon higher heating...same thing- takes
place within the first 15 ? minutes, which gives me enough time to solder and get out before much hardness is lost. Plus, I'm
only going up to about 1200 F, and the anneal temp. is around 1500. Most of these dies aren't very hard anyway , or they'd break
(I temper from 700F to about 900 F , depending) , so the % of hardness lost isn't that much , since the dies aren't that hard to begin with.

Soldering like this onto dies is very tricky, because the dies can shift out of alignment and distort, both of which can be disastrous.
Tinning the surface of the die works well, but I usually just hit it with wire solder and try not to bump wires out of place. Next comes
creating the negative impressions in the nylon block/base, and I do that (in this case) by taking a piece of thin metal and cutting it
in the die, set onto a hard polyurethane (maybe 90-a durometer) sheet , several times - annealing in between cycles- at very high pressure
(40-50 tons), to really form the sheet crisply against the wires. Leaving this formed piece in the die , I heat the die up hot enough to melt
the nylon (maybe 400 -600 F ?) but not melt it too aggressively (it bubbles ) or burn it. This is very tricky because too much heat and/or pressure
ruins the impression, so I go slowly, a little bit at a time, cleaning away excess displaced/solidified nylon several times .
Using the piece of formed metal, instead of just the die itself, creates an impression exactly the size desired , as the added thickness of the eventual
target metal calls for the depression to be larger than the forming part of the die by just that metal's thickness .

It can work to do similar designs without the solid nylon base plate, but that's more risky because the pancake die needs full support , especially
with intricate designs , and solid support , to prevent parts of the die from flexing, which a bare polyurethane sheet allows them to do. Dies
have been broken this way, and using the solid female mold/base allows the embossing to work at lower pressures than with urethane pads.

I have written about a similar project here
The Timber Bay Embossed Butterfly - Dar Shelton




Dar

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I just picked up the old brake rotors. I am planning to mount a 9" magnetic chuck and a 6" 3-jaw on the rotary table. This will enable me to mount the chuck on to the "backing plate".

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Amazing what can be adapted if you put your mind to it. Would never have thought of using a disc brake rotor for an adapter.
Kryn

Disc brake rotors are real handy for tramming the mill. They can be purchased new for about $25.

Roger

Finally I got around to mount the chucks on the rotary table.



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