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26th Apr 2018, 04:27 AM #16Most Valued Member
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- melbourne, laverton
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- 1,910
work cover never come a made made checks like that .
when ever they were there thay had blinkers on
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26th Apr 2018, 01:13 PM #17Golden Member
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- Jan 2016
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- Wodonga Vic
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Note the earth pin on the right of this double adapter, This is my lazy, last minute solution to the 15A problem, it's been going strong for 3 years now
DSC_0666.jpg
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26th Apr 2018, 09:47 PM #18Diamond Member
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- Aug 2006
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- Melbourne
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- 1,105
When it comes time for warranty refit a 15a plug back on.
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26th Apr 2018, 10:16 PM #19
They are already awake to that. The welders ( and other tools) are fitted with a molded plug /cable. My wife worked at an electrical repair agents shop a few years back. Many a warranty claim was knocked back as the customer had changed a plug or filed an earth pin.
They did not have a leg to stand on.
Those who were still too dumb and made a fuss were referred on to the electrical worker's board for a please explain.
Grahame
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26th Apr 2018, 10:17 PM #20China
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- Dec 2005
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- South Australia
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- 1,656
Very different story in SA, sounds like they need a kick up Backside in VIC
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26th Apr 2018, 10:43 PM #21Diamond Member
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- Aug 2006
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- Melbourne
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26th Apr 2018, 11:13 PM #22Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 7,183
Is this what you mean?
A few years back SWMBO purchase a water feature pump with a 6m long black plastic mains lead. I installed a weatherproof GPO on the side of the house and ran the lead for the pump from there 2.4 m across the veranda - through the leafless branches of a small tree and down into the water feature. A few months later when there were heaps of leaves and shoot sprouting out some of the tree branches needed pruning so I found a chainsaw (at last count I think there are 9 of them in the shed) with fuel in it and started hacking into the tree. There was a brief flash and then I remembered DANG! the mains lead.
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26th Apr 2018, 11:46 PM #23Senior Member
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- Apr 2013
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- Toowoomba Qld
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- 401
*** Disclaimer - any information provided should be viewed as for entertainment purposes only and should not be used as replacement for advice from a licensed electrician ***
Plenty of options to use a 15 amp machine into a 10 amp wall socket, people do it all the time for caravans
eg https://www.campsmart.net.au/15a-to-...r-caravans-and
If you wanted to go cheaper go to your electrical supply shop, get a clipsal 15 amp socket, 10 amp plug and some 15amp cable ( I think it's 2.5mm ? just look at what wire is spec'd on the 15 amp socket). The wire will be tight on the 10amp plug but it's doable.
While it's not ideal and fitting a dedicated 15 amp circuit would be better, one of those cables will get you out of trouble in a pinch. You might end up tripping the power running the machine at full tilt but a 15 amp machine is probably going to be more powerful then a 10 amp machine.
So if your choice is say a 10amp plug, 100 amp welder
https://www.bunnings.com.au/bossweld...elder_p6380043
vs 15 amp plug, 150 amp welder
https://www.bunnings.com.au/bossweld...elder_p6380044
You can always run the 150 amp machine at 100 amps, will even have a better duty cycle then the 100amp machine. But you can not run a 100amp machine at 150 amps.
Limit what else you run on the same circuit and you might not even have any troubles.
What people often forget is what is the feed wire up to the GPO. I have a single phase CigWeld 250 amp Mig welder, when I first got it I took it to a friends place to help me set it up. He worked out for different amp settings what wire feed I should run. Made me a bit of a chart to help me get started. I took it home, plugged it in and tried to weld on those settings and worked nothing like what I thought the Mig should. I found I had to crank the wire speed right up from what he suggested to get a decent weld. His feed lines to the house are small, old fuse box ect. Mine is new feed in lines, 16mm2 from the connection point to the fuse box. 10mm2 from the fuse box to the sub board in the shed, not sure what the final run to the GPO is but not undersized at least. Effectively at his house it might have been a 180amp welder and at mine it was a 250amp welder.
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27th Apr 2018, 08:02 AM #24Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 7,183
I have a home made version of this I use for our van
The van is parked and packed/unpacked on the front drive.
There's only a 10A GPO on the front veranda so I use the converter.
If you wanted to go cheaper go to your electrical supply shop, get a clipsal 15 amp socket, 10 amp plug and some 15amp cable ( I think it's 2.5mm ? just look at what wire is spec'd on the 15 amp socket). The wire will be tight on the 10amp plug but it's doable.
You're right, it's hard enough to fit 2.5mm^2 wire to a 15A plug/socket and 10A is even harder.
Otherwise all my 15A machines are all plugged into 15A GPOs.
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27th Apr 2018, 03:41 PM #25Most Valued Member
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- Oct 2010
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- melbourne, laverton
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- 1,910
Another thing to think of . Is the welder all ways been driven full tilt. How much does it draw when welding..
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27th Apr 2018, 09:35 PM #26Diamond Member
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- Jun 2010
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- Canberra
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- 1,322
My BOC Smootharc 130 has a 10A plug, and that machine's amperage is good for most 3.2mm rods, so by that logic, a 150A or 200A welder run at 130A or less should be OK on a 10A circuit, unless you really start to push the duty cycle.
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30th Apr 2018, 12:13 AM #27Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 7,183
While rattling around in the electrical cupboard this afternoon I found a spare V/I meter and the most useful thing I did today was add that meter to the 10A plug to 15A socket converter with the built in 10A RCBO on it that I use for setting up the van on the front driveway .
15A10ARCBO.jpg
The yellow HD cord comes from a 6 way HD expander board I found in a rubbish bin at a camping group - it looked like the expander board itself wasn't HD enough to withstand being run over by a vehicle. Cord was alright though.
Must put some sort of cover over the RCBO switch
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