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  1. #31
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    How much load do you have on your tapered lock nuts ?
    Is it possible to also secure the job with a bolt through the leg just in case there is some type of vibration that may cause your locking nuts to come loose.

  2. #32
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    Looks good so far (and believe it or not, along the lines of my original (vague) thoughts).
    Spider for the free end?

    Michael

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Thanks Kryn
    the base is 25mm thick plate and the bolts are 9/16"UNF so I'm hoping...

    Phil
    Hi Phil, the reason I mentioned about extra bolts was that I saw the chalk line and thought it was going to be cut there.
    I need to look/read further before putting my foot in my mouth!!!!!
    Interesting way of dong this, THANKS.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    How much load do you have on your tapered lock nuts ?
    Is it possible to also secure the job with a bolt through the leg just in case there is some type of vibration that may cause your locking nuts to come loose.
    Hi Peter
    there is a good load but they are more for location and a bit of workholding. I definitely need something to secure it with more rigidity. I like your idea of a bolt through the leg as I was going to run a strap from the flange to the faceplate.


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Looks good so far (and believe it or not, along the lines of my original (vague) thoughts).
    Spider for the free end?

    Michael
    Hi Michael
    Yeah, maybe not so vague. The beauty of this jig is that it will work on a milling table (should I ever get one).
    A spider is the most secure way though with the gap I'm not sure the steady will still be able to sit on the ways. If it does, I'll have to give it a crack.

  5. #35
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    Hi all
    I returned the faceplate to the lathe (removing the insert for the gap was a lot easier this time) and made the necessary adjustments to get the governor to run about as true as it's going to.
    Seems there was ample space for the fixed steady so I made a spider up for the support that was needed during machining.
    I also did a short video of the governor turning in the lathe in case anyone would like to see it. The counterbalancing worked incredibly well I just wasn't game to run it too fast.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26y8ldW53qs

    Phil
    20180924_141605 copy.jpg

  6. #36
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    Brilliant Phil. I think the spider is a good idea just because you don't want things to move halfway through boring, and being an interupted cut, Murphy is watching carefully.

    Michael

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Brilliant Phil. I think the spider is a good idea just because you don't want things to move halfway through boring, and being an interupted cut, Murphy is watching carefully.

    Michael
    Thanks Michael
    With a bit of luck the large mass in the spider may soak up a bit of the vibrations should there be any chatter.
    I'm sure Murphy actually resides near my house.

    Phil

  8. #38
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    One trick I haven't tried but I'm told works (by someone who has talked to someone who has done it...) is sticking a lump of bluetack on the rotating part. This guy was talking about milling cutters but I would have thought it might work on a lathe. The rubbery nature is meant to damp down the tendancy for the metal to ring/ vibrate. Your part is a bit large probably for that trick but I wonder if you used say a worm drive hose clamp to hold some soft rubbery material in contact whether you would get the same effect?

    Michael

  9. #39
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    Yep anything to change the harmonics. Years ago on a particular job I put some big elastic bands around a drum roller I was machining and it shut it up beautifully.

    Phil

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    One trick I haven't tried but I'm told works (by someone who has talked to someone who has done it...) is sticking a lump of bluetack on the rotating part. This guy was talking about milling cutters but I would have thought it might work on a lathe. The rubbery nature is meant to damp down the tendancy for the metal to ring/ vibrate. Your part is a bit large probably for that trick but I wonder if you used say a worm drive hose clamp to hold some soft rubbery material in contact whether you would get the same effect?

    Michael
    I use the blue-tack method when machining aluminium & magnesium kart rims, it's very effective in damping the ringing we get otherwise.

  11. #41
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    Wow, over 8 months since my last post.
    I managed to machine the outrigger arm successfully which after reaming to final size, I finally had a decent bore to work with.
    Next bit was the bush for the outrigger arm.
    I will point out (and you know I'm going to always bang on about this) that there was no Loctite used but the 'Limits Fits and Tolerances chart got a decent work out. I figure if it can hold together for over a hundred years without Loctite, then it will again.

    Phil
    20190628_143817 copy.jpg 20190628_121349 copy.jpg 20190701_140206 copy.jpg 20190701_084824 copy.jpg 20190701_092727 copy.jpg 20190701_131909 copy.jpg 20190701_132058 copy.jpg 20190701_142043 copy.jpg 20190701_142048 copy.jpg 20190701_132705 copy.jpg

  12. #42
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    Well done Phil. I re-read the whole thread (twice) to get my head back around what you were doing, but it looks like you have nailed it.

    Does this mean that Ballarat is now the world-wide centre for Pickering rebores?

    Michael

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Well done Phil. I re-read the whole thread (twice) to get my head back around what you were doing, but it looks like you have nailed it.

    Does this mean that Ballarat is now the world-wide centre for Pickering rebores?

    Michael
    Thanks Michael
    and you would be correct.
    And when I figure out the geometry for cutting bevel gears on the Douglas, I'll be able to do the lot.

    Phil

  14. #44
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    Another great journey and tutorial by a true master. Thanks Phil.

  15. #45
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