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Thread: Chainsaws and Poona Trees.
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10th Jun 2017, 02:19 PM #16Senior Member
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10th Jun 2017, 04:00 PM #17Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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So there is - I still need glasses to see fine detail.
Dolmar make a very good chainsaw, Dolmar and Dolmar-Sachs have been making chainsaws for nearly 100 years
Most of the models can be checked here
Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer
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10th Jun 2017, 06:03 PM #18Senior Member
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Heheee ... 0.88 secs. But just to be pedantic it took 2 x 20secs from engine start to billet fall. I reckon, maybe I could do it in under 40 secs. Maybe.
That's a great link. I ended up on the Dolmar site, and from what I can make out mine is a PS-510
Greg
Thanx everyone for all this info.
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10th Jun 2017, 07:59 PM #19
I didn't look close at the picture of the saw. That is the one I saw in the video, along with lots of others.
However long it took to cut that log, how long to do the next and the next etc etc.
I did a bit of cutting this afternoon with my baby saw. It is the smallest Stihl. Great for cleaning up the smaller stuff on fallen trees and still does pretty good on some of the bigger stuff. When I have finished with the baby, fire up the big one and start cutting I always think to myself "why didn't I start to use this sooner?" The big saw just rips thru so much faster. It is a balance between weight and speed. When is it worth lifting the extra weight to gain speed. I have to talk myself into swapping saws. My back prefers the little one.
Yes, I know that. But what I sorta mean is there is no attempt at symmetry. They just weld it on where it touches, sharp edges protruding. They're great at achieving joins at any angle at all, except 90 ... Hehe
I have just finished watching "The Eagle". Very impressive. I'm glad I waited til now.
Dean
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10th Jun 2017, 08:29 PM #20Pink 10EE owner
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All the decent saws are made in Scandinavian countries or Germany. The spare sprocket you got with the clutch is the usual style that I have seen for 325 chain Our Husqvarnas use the same style sprocket, except the clutch on Husqvarnas are external, not internal like you have.
You could probably invest in some wedges, they really are essential for tree felling and billet cutting, especially if you do not have heavy equipment to help you out.Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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10th Jun 2017, 09:34 PM #21Senior Member
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Heheeee ... I know that exact feeling. I have a bush axe and a splitter. Both Fiskars. The axe, which I sharpen till it shaves hairs on my arm is great for cutting tinder from billets. I can almost do it machine-gun fashion. But you can only cut so much tinder ... I groan picking up the splitter.
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10th Jun 2017, 09:38 PM #22Senior Member
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Hi .RC
At the risk of showing ignorance, what would I use the wedges for? How can they help me. I just looked up Fiskar wedges and they look impressive. Now I want them just because they look great
Would I also then need to carry a sledge hammer. I'm a fairly lightweight operation, but if wedges will make life safer then I will get them
cheers ... Greg
PS: I thought about this. Are the wedges to prevent the billets jamming the blade ... sometimes I have to billet where the log falls because it's too big to move. I get a lot of kick back for this reason. The gap closes on the blade but there is not always a way round it.
I really appreciate the info.
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10th Jun 2017, 10:37 PM #23
Wedges can be used to keep the gap open. If you are getting kickback from a closing gap you definitely need wedges. I rarely use them and if I want one I usually cut one with the saw from the wood at hand. Wedges can also be used to split wood. They are handy if you get your blade jammed, but it is a lot easier to use them before this happens. Don't use steel wedges near the saw, plastic or wood is cheaper on chains. Used to hold open a cut they don't need a lot of force applied. A large hammer will do, or a lump of wood. I usually just watch the top of the cut and pull the saw out sideways when it closes the right amount. If there is a big gap under the trunk/branch I pack it with something to support the weight. As I cut along, withdrawing the saw, the tree slowly sags down onto the packing until it is supported. Then go back and finish the cuts. I had to do a lot of this today. More bridged branches than you can poke a stick at.
Dean
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10th Jun 2017, 10:46 PM #24
A tale about a jammed chainsaw.
A friends father worked in the forests around the Warburton area when he was young. The very first chainsaw in the area was brought out to stage a demo. It got stuck in the tree and my friends father and his work mate had to cut it out with a 2 handed crosscut saw. Also this bloke had a work mate who smoked rollies. They wanted a small ruler one day, but didn't have anything they could use. The suggestion was forwarded to the Tally Ho company that they could print a ruler on their paper packets........ and guess what?
Dean
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10th Jun 2017, 11:17 PM #25Senior Member
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Ok ... so have I got this right.
Lets say your cutting 300mm billets. So you cut each billet and withdraw the blade as soon as it becomes apparent the gap is gunna close. And you travel along the trunk repeating this so that the whole trunk eventually settles on the ground contour. Then you go back and cut through the closed gaps and finish the cut on each billet. Is that right?
Just like if I was bending box tubing or angle iron. I can't believe I've never thought of that. Sometimes I've had to tow the log just to get the chain saw out
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11th Jun 2017, 12:33 AM #26
Thats right except it is better to keep it off the ground as much as possible. Depends on the situation. I often cut some rings to pack under the log. A trawalla jack can be useful as well. It is much easier to cut wood when it is off the ground. You also need to get the cut as deep as possible to get the log to sag more with each cut. This is where your judgement comes in.
If you are cutting a branch that is angled upwards put some billets under where it will fall such that you have as much as possible of the branch hanging over the billets without it tipping over. Then you have a length hanging in the air ready to be cut. On a long branch you might then do the bridging technique with more packing further back.
When you are lazy like me you look for all the easy ways.
Dean
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11th Jun 2017, 08:12 PM #27I break stuff...
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Just to go back a bit, as I believe no-one quite answered the question I think you were asking - the new clutch drum is a rim drive type sprocket, where the old drum is a spur type sprocket. They both do the same job, but the main idea is that for heavy users a rim drive is better, as you can simply replace the outer rim when it gets worn, as opposed to changing the entire clutch drum as you do with a spur type sprocket. The outer rims are cheaper than a spur sprocket...
A little more info here...
Sprockets - Welcome To Chainsaws Online
*EDIT*
And one more thought, I noticed somewhere you mentioned you've been eyeballing the amount of oil to put in your premix - definitely measure it out, and keep it the same each time, and you'll spend less time adjusting the tune. More oil in the fuel = a leaner mixture, and vice versa. Think of it as you've set the carb to deliver X amount of premix for a certain amount of air - whatever oil is in that premix goes to lubricating the motor. So you can imagine if (numbers exaggerated for the sake of argument) you have 50% petrol and 50% oil, and you then change it to 75% petrol and 25% oil, the engine has a lot more actual fuel delivered in that amount X, although the amount of air is the same.
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12th Jun 2017, 06:36 PM #28Senior Member
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Thanks for explaining both those things. I couldn't figure out why anybody would reinvent the wheel (regarding the clutch drum) I'll email the site-link and see if they have one for a Makita 3/8" (Dolmar) .. if they do it's not listed.
I'll get a measure and start producing the same oil-fuel mix everytime.
Greg
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12th Jun 2017, 08:06 PM #29Pink 10EE owner
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12th Jun 2017, 08:41 PM #30
It is usually just a matter of working out which sprocket your saw takes. If you email them they should know which one, but make sure you get the real part number not just an oem one. Keep a record of the part number. I notice that your sprocket is held on with a circlip. That should make it easy. All the ones I have worked on have been a left handed nut.
Does your bar have a grease hole for the sprocket tip?
I have had an interesting last couple of days cutting wood.
Chainsaws.jpg
My chainsaws with a wirebrush for size comparison.
Before.jpg
The Manna Gum I am clearing up. I cut some of it just after it fell in January because it was over the drive.
Looking East.jpg
Saturday evening looking East.
Looking West.jpg
Saturday evening looking West. These 2 pics show how complicated this job was. I lifted that branch with the jack so it was clear of the ground at the far right end and then cut up as far as I could reach then took the jack out. I used the jack in a number of places to get branches off the ground for cutting.
Last Picture Monday.jpg
Here is some rings under the trunk to catch it. I did all the cuts visible, withdrawing the saw. By this stage the cuts were not closing very much. With the help of a couple of wedges I finished the last 2 cuts and lifted that piece out with the jack. I finished all these cuts except the far left one. I had bit of trouble with the last few. The second ring from the end had a branch 125mm diam punched about 400mm straight down. It took quite a lot of work to get the last 2 out with a headache coming on, but I was determined to finish that last cut for the day. Now I have the rest of the trunk left to do, at least as far as it is worth cutting. It is likely to get hollow and dirty inside although it is still solid wood up to this point.
Blue Wren.jpg
Everywhere I go around the house area cutting / splitting wood I am followed by this guy and his family. About 20 of them. He is a difficult fellow to get a picture of.
Dean