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Thread: Facing used Toyota flywheel
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21st Jan 2019, 10:19 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Facing used Toyota flywheel
My 80s Toyota MR2 clutch had been on the way out for a while, this weekend I whipped it out and got to repairing it. I figured what I learned about heavily heated cast iron might be useful to others.
I put it on my surface plate friction surface up with some 123 blocks underneath the centre bolt circle and found it had a bad uneven surface all over the central band of heat discolouration (+-.009") but was otherwise good.
It is important to measure any shoulder height (mine was .017") as this will need to be re machined in the new face
I then grabbed it on the inner cast flange at the back but also used a allthread through the spindle with a big flanged nut and aluminium collars at the back of the spindle and in the flywheel.
Then an hour or so of dialing in the face and OD on the unworn sections and I started cuts, I have no compound and had to shuffle the tool back in the holder but the CVA can just take 12" and this was slightly under.
I found the cast cut well but as soon as I hit the heated areas the insert I was using chipped. Even at just .002" doc. (46 rpm) I then swapped to a larger insert nose radius and raised the speed to 112 rpm and .004" doc. This improved things but the chips were coming off red and discoloured when I hit the glassy stuff.
Finally I upped it to 360rpm and .004" and slowed the feed rate to .002" per rev and got a beautiful smooth finish.
It's nice to be able to use a machine to its full capacity.
Final face concavity was .0003 across the friction which I was very happy with the only thing is I'm concerned my surface finish may be too good.
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22nd Jan 2019, 12:19 AM #2Most Valued Member
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Any better finish and you'll be able to use it as a mirror and shave with it.
Thanks for the how to, might come in very handy, one day.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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22nd Jan 2019, 01:38 AM #3
The secret to machining cast iron is to take a cut deep enough to get under the hard surface !
Nice work anyway Thanks for the pictures.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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22nd Jan 2019, 08:10 AM #4
[QUOTE=BaronJ;1945724]The secret to machining cast iron is to take a cut deep enough to get under the hard surface !
I understood this for unmachined stuff straight from the foundry but I guess the heat from use had created the same surface chilling as from a mould.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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22nd Jan 2019, 09:18 AM #5Pink 10EE owner
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Have you put it on a surface plate and blued it up?
I did a truck flywheel, or tried to, the surface finish was fine but the hard spots were all high .
I had to grind the hard spots down manually with a die grinder using a flap wheel.
20121218_153057 (Custom).jpgGold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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22nd Jan 2019, 09:50 AM #6Most Valued Member
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I didn't blue it up but I did indicate over the high spots and I was all good but it's still off so I'll give it a blue. Thanks for the tip
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23rd Jan 2019, 12:56 PM #7China
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I am no expert although I believe you should stone the surface to remove the glaze
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23rd Jan 2019, 01:53 PM #8Most Valued Member
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Thanks everyone, I blued it up and the heat affected areas came up high but my indicators were only showing sub one thou. I just stoned them down until it all blued up no problem.
Great advice.
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23rd Jan 2019, 02:51 PM #9Most Valued Member
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Thanks for posting a great practical project, complete with challenges and solutions.
Just pondering how important it is to re-machine the shoulder to the same height as original. Guessing it would reduce the clamping force slightly if you didn't, but in practical terms the change due to thickness reduction of the friction plate in its lifetime would be many times greater than the 0.017" shoulder.
Steve
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23rd Jan 2019, 03:06 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Yeah I dont really think a .017" difference in effective plate thickness would have a massive effect on overall life, maybe something like 10% at most. That mounting face did have some dings in from people levering the clutch housing of the alignment dowels in the past though so nice to get rid of them. I would be curious to know whats happening structurally in those hard spots to make them so awfully hard though.
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