Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 22
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default Electrolysis bath

    Hi all
    A few of my tools got wet and about 5 years later I noticed it. Being a bit lazy now, I decided to set up an electrolysis bath.
    I have most of the pics but the impressive ones of the files (before and afters) disappeared somewhere in the very cheap USB stick (that I will never buy again) while transferring them from my phone.
    The files were throw-aways and ended up very very useable.
    Hopefully you guys will read this and let me know if I've gone about it the wrong way.
    It worked but I still don't know...

    Phil

    20180716_110856 copy.jpg 20180716_110904 copy.jpg 20180716_110607 copy.jpg 20180716_110819 copy.jpg 20180709_095026 copy.jpg 20180716_110957 copy.jpg 20180716_111234 copy.jpg 20180716_111256 copy.jpg 20180716_111514 copy.jpg 20180717_081842 copy.jpg 20180717_081847 copy.jpg

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    There's nothing wrong with what you did, especially the setup, my comments are just suggested improvements.

    Anode material.
    Ferrous (except something like stainless) anodes will corrode forming a sludgy insulating layer over the anode which reduces the current and slows down the electrolysis. For large items the anode needs to be regularly cleaned which is messy. You wont pick up the insulating factor unless an ammeter is used in the circuit. Ferrous anodes also turns the electrolyte a messy orange brown which makes it less likely you will reuse the electrolyte. A better anode material is carbon arc rod. The Carbon corrodes much slower than anything ferrous and turns the electrolyte light grey but it can be reused over and over again, some of my solutions have been used more than a dozen times. Stainless also does not corrode very quickly but contains Co so there is some concern about using this.

    Electrolyte.
    Washing soda sometimes contains Sodium Phosphate but I note yours says "Does not contain Phosphates" which is good as we already dump too much phosphate into our waste water. A "soda" which you can be confident has no phosphate in it is "Foot bath salts" (also available at supermarket) which uses Sodium Carbonate.

    Power supply.
    A battery charger typically outputs 14V which is way more volts than is needed. As little as 3V is all that is required. The effect of using higher voltages is that excess hydrogen and oxygen are produced which can be dangerous if the electrolysis is performed in tall narrow containers or inside a small room. They are not easy to find but something like a 6V Power supply with variable current output is ideal for this sort of thing. Being able to adjust the current can speed things up - this can be done to some extent via the power supply and adjusting the concentration of the electrolyte. Typically I make dilute and concentrated solutions of electrolyte - 2/3 fill the bath with the dilute solution and then watching the ammeter slowly add concentrated solution until it gets to ~5A.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Wimmera
    Posts
    96

    Default

    Phil, you are a perfectionist. Bob has added some good advice.

    John

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Thanks John
    very kind words, really pleased with how the bits turned out. I did some pin punches and a chisel as well (pics coming). Pity about the pics of the files though.

    I was hoping you would respond BobL, fantastic information as usual and definitely going to source some carbon rods. Many many thanks for your input. Love it.

    Phil

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Some more pics. as I say it is annoying losing the before pics of the files as they had barnacles on them.

    Phil
    DSC_0045 copy.jpg 20180523_110439 copy.jpg 20180717_155339.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Thats nice work Phil. Ive had a play with this but my setup was not as elaborate as yours!

    Thanks for posting!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston south
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Just be aware of
    hydrogen embrittlement, baking in an oven will fix that

  8. #8
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by waxen View Post
    Just be aware of
    hydrogen embrittlement, baking in an oven will fix that
    MUCH less of a problem if lower voltages are used.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,628

    Default

    Watch out for springs they tend to break after electrolysis and make sure there isn’t any brass bushes etc as they dissolve.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    I'm planning on doing something similar and was wondering what quantities of soda should be used used per liter of water? For power source, I will be using an old Arlec 6/12/24V battery charger, naturally on the 6V setting. Stainless steel was probably going to be my anode choice, but I'm having second thoughts since BobL's comments regarding Cobalt. Is the concern due to the Cobalt leaching from the stainless and thus becoming a heavy metal poisoning concern? I have some 6.3mm Copper coated carbon arc rods, would these be okay?

  11. #11
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    I'm planning on doing something similar and was wondering what quantities of soda should be used used per liter of water?
    The way I do its to make up a concentrated stock solution of 200g/L and then dilute some of this to about 5:1 as a working solution. I have a 6V adjustable current power supply and set the current between 3 and 5A. Making a concentrated solution saves space and allows you to adjust things on the fly.

    If you only have a fixed V power supply and an ammeter you can adjust the concentration (up with more concentrated, and down with water) until the current reaches about 3 - 5A.

    If you don't have an ammeter try 40g/L and if there's not enough bubbles after a minute or so chuck in some more soda or if its bubbling like mad pour in some water.

    For power source, I will be using an old Arlec 6/12/24V battery charger, naturally on the 6V setting. Stainless steel was probably going to be my anode choice, but I'm having second thoughts since BobL's comments regarding Cobalt. Is the concern due to the Cobalt leaching from the stainless and thus becoming a heavy metal poisoning concern? I have some 6.3mm Copper coated carbon arc rods, would these be okay?
    I can't for the life of me remember why but I found iy worked better if the copper was removed. It can be dissolved off with some battery acid.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston south
    Posts
    102

    Default

    My method is a little cruder, I use half a packet of bath salts to a bucket of water. I use a combination of a reo mesh mat and carbon rods.

  13. #13
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by waxen View Post
    My method is a little cruder, I use half a packet of bath salts to a bucket of water. I use a combination of a reo mesh mat and carbon rods.
    From memory the bath salts packets are 500g , and buckets are ~7-10L so thats between ~50 and 70g/L

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    I'm planning on doing something similar and was wondering what quantities of soda should be used used per liter of water? For power source, I will be using an old Arlec 6/12/24V battery charger, naturally on the 6V setting. Stainless steel was probably going to be my anode choice, but I'm having second thoughts since BobL's comments regarding Cobalt. Is the concern due to the Cobalt leaching from the stainless and thus becoming a heavy metal poisoning concern? I have some 6.3mm Copper coated carbon arc rods, would these be okay?

    Hi Karl,
    I think the issue is Chromium rather than Cobalt.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    Well, it's taken me a month or so, but I have finally had a crack at electrolytic rust removal and I absolutely love it!
    My set up was as follows. One 20L plastic bucket from Bunnings, 4 pieces of stainless steel 50 wide, 400 long and 1.6mm thick (yes I know I had grand plans for using carbon electrodes, but I didn't have any acid to dissolve the copper off and I did have stainless steel sheet), one Arlec 6-12-24V battery charger and a packet of washing soda. I used a solution of 600G washing soda to 15L of water, plus I made up the remaining 400G with 4L of water so I could adjust things as per BobL's suggestion. Having hung the P&N tap handle off a piece of wood using .9mm steel mig wire I turned the charger on and observed a Current of 1.9A @ 6V using a clamp meter. I then added the more concentrated solution until I got a reading of 3.2A. The final solution ended up at 18L water and 900G washing soda, so 50G/L. I noted that after a while the current actually increased to 5A on the negative side, while the positive side showed 3.5A which I found interesting.
    Overall, I am very happy with the results and also the fact that the tap handle which was rusted solid operated perfectly when removed from the bath 13 hours later with no negative effects observed.
    This leads me on to an evil thought. What electrolyte could/would one use to chemically polish stainless steel? I got some fittings done once after I had fabricated them and the finish was brilliant, certainly not a mirror polish, but the electrolysis removed the scale and discolouration off the weld without leaving the washed out look that pickling paste, (hydrofluoric and nitric acid I believe) gives. I would love to be able to perform this in house and hopefully avoid the use of pickling paste where I can.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. WTB updraught oil bath air cleaner
    By KBs PensNmore in forum AUTO PARTS / Wanted, For Sale - HELP
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 25th Feb 2016, 08:55 PM
  2. electrolisis bath.
    By weisyboy in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 3rd Apr 2009, 10:49 PM
  3. Acid bath strength
    By JillB in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12th May 2008, 11:58 AM
  4. Best way to cut a cast-iron bath in half?
    By Batpig in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 15th Jan 2008, 10:09 PM
  5. Electrolysis
    By Wood Butcher in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 5th Mar 2006, 08:30 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •