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Thread: Hydraulic Log Splitter WIP
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15th Aug 2018, 10:03 AM #76Senior Member
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15th Aug 2018, 05:58 PM #77Most Valued Member
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No. You're just being a trouble maker!
In truth I have any number of projects waiting for me. not including projects in the garden, I also have my mill to finish, in 3 months I'll have a 1000 x 630mm surface plate that will need a stand, and I also have a 1200mm pan brake that is half finished that I seriously want to complete.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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15th Aug 2018, 08:11 PM #78
Hi Guys,
Too many projects, not enough hours in the day...Best Regards:
Baron J.
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15th Aug 2018, 08:18 PM #79Diamond Member
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Hydraulic panbrake
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17th Aug 2018, 07:51 PM #80Most Valued Member
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The other day I finished wiring up the electric hydraulic pump for the log lifter. I was quite pleased with myself, watching the lifter go up and down at the push of a button. I then figured it was time to stress test it so I plonked on a massive log that had been laying around. It was too knarled and big to split by hand, I had tried but I got sick of watching the log splitter bounce off it.
Half way up and the lifter stop lifting. The electric motor was spinning freely (without any load) but no movement. I thought maybe I sheared off my little connecting shaft I made, but when I took apart the motor and pulled it out, it was still OK. It appears as though something in the hydraulic pump has finally given in. I will have to look further into this but it seems a little disappointing.
That second spool valve may have a use quicker than I thought. I may end up connecting the log lifter up to the main pump, piggy backing the two spools, one to lift the logs and the other to split them. I'm just worried about the flow into the small ram, I will need some serious flow control to that.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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17th Aug 2018, 09:12 PM #81Most Valued Member
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18th Aug 2018, 08:19 PM #82Most Valued Member
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Yes I have thought of that. It may be the prefereable method to a flow restrictor as a flow restrictor will drive up the system pressure which puts unnecessary stress on hoses and components. Also, with two of these spool valves connected in line, it will increase the back pressure on the other spool valve and I don't know enough about hydraulics to know if that is an acceptable design for these particular spool valves.
An adjustable limiting stop is probably the safest way to go.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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10th Sep 2018, 03:57 PM #83Most Valued Member
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Done some more work on the log splitter.
I have finished the actuator assembly that controls the throttle in response the the engine RPM measured by the electronic speed controller. Not a terribly technical job but fiddly non the less. One main issue was the fact that the actuator only moves a maximum of 12mm from fully out (idle) to fully in (WOT) as this needs to move the trottle shaft about 80 degrees (from idle to WOT). Sure, it can and was done with levers but it meant an increase in force required to do the job. The actuator already needed to work against a rather stiff internal spring designed to be a failsafe, returning the engine to idle if power is removed from the controller or actuator. As well as that, there are a couple of springs on the carburettor including a spring on the axillary power pump, which is an internal piston pump designed to deliver instant fuel when the trottle is pumped.
With the setup I made, the ratio of the throttle linkage movement to actuator movement is about 4.7:1 This kept the lever sizes reasonable including the lever on the throttle body.
Pic 1: All the parts laid out before assembly. They were all made from alluminium and SS. The moving parts are mostly aluminium, in order to keep moving masses to a minimum in order to help with response.
Pic 2: The linear proportional actuator dis-assembled. I removed the factory spring and replaced with one of a slightly less spring constant in order to help it overcome other forces.
Pic 3: Throttle body before adding the linkages
Pic 4: New linkage added
Pic 5: Base plate for the actuator assembly. It attaches on an inlet manifold bolt, an exhaust bolt and two smaller M6 holes on the top of the rocker cover that were pre-existing.
Pic 6: Actuator with linkage attached and screwed to the alluminium housing that attaches to the SS RHS
Pic 7: SS RHS assembly attached to base plate
Pic 8: Completed and installed actuator assembly.
I'm yet to make the necessary adjustments on the electronic engine speed controller yet. These include ramping speed from idle, droop adjustment, gain, stability and maximum engine rpm.
Cheers,
Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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10th Sep 2018, 04:16 PM #84Most Valued Member
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Nice neat job simon, one thing you might want to do is put a hose clamp on that fuel filter before it starts squirting fuel on
that hot exhaust manifold, your m8's at work would never let you live it down if they had to come and put it out
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10th Sep 2018, 05:17 PM #85Most Valued Member
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Yea. You're right. Sometimes im too busy tackling the bigger issues and forget about the easy stuff thats equally important!
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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10th Sep 2018, 07:03 PM #86Most Valued Member
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Well after a bit of tinkering I got the engine speed governor to kinda work. I have the actuator moving the carby throttle in response to engine load in an attempt to maintain a pre-determined engine RPM.
I'm having problems with the stability, it's currently hunting and when the engine is really loaded up it overshoots and revs the crap out of the engine. I'm surprised it hasn't thrown a 35 year old piston out the side on one occasion!
Like I said, there are two adjustment trim pots called "stability" and "gain" which are designed specifically to smooth out this erratic behaviour. I have ran out of time today but I'm confident that after some trial and error, I will get a satisfactory result.
It's still nice to see things working though.... well kinda.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th Sep 2018, 12:07 AM #87
Hi Simon,
Feedback mechanisms can be a nightmare to tune !
I used to cringe at having to do bode plots of systems. I'm sure that you can find something on the net that might help.
The letters P.I.D strikes terror and fear... I'm very glad that I can now forget it ever happened.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th Sep 2018, 08:16 AM #88Most Valued Member
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Underdamped Oscillations. Yep I suspected I may have a job on my hands with this system. I'm not at the end of my tether yet as I have a few things to play with which may help with the situation. It's just a matter of changing one thing at a time and see what affect it has on the system. I have not really had much of a play with the Gain and Stability trimpots, I may yet establish a balance with further adjustments of these two parramaters alone.
As a last resort I could just introduce a mechanical damping system with an oil filled dash pot! I deliberately left the pivot pin on the linkage system hanging out, longer than needed just in case I need to add something to the system.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th Sep 2018, 05:06 PM #89Most Valued Member
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OK I have had a bit more of a play. I have managed to mostly get rid of oscillations when the load is even and unchanging. Biggest issue is over shooting the target rpm range once an extra load is placed on the engine and it then over-compensates with throttle to the point it over-revs. I think it maybe my own fault. At this stage I am running this engine without a flywheel. It was an automatic which means it came with a flex plate, which essentially is a very lightweight ring gear for the starter motor to engage with. An engine coupled to a manual car has this ring gear as part of a much heavier flywheel. I think a flywheel will mostly dampen out the hi's and low rpm's keeping a more constant rpm range, making the job of the governor much easier.
Not a huge job to make one. Not exactly sure how heavy to make it but I assume the heavier the better, within reason. It's not like I want to engine to be super responsive in changes in rpm, in fact I want the opposite.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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11th Sep 2018, 06:14 PM #90Diamond Member
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Can't you just grab a flywheel from a manual version of that engine? Might save you some time.
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