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  1. #61
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourne
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    Out of interest what are you using for the electronic engine speed governor?

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Out of interest what are you using for the electronic engine speed governor?
    Hi there,

    I have one of these governors:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/i/232615672470?chn=ps

    and a proportional actuator for the carby fuel control:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISUZU-4L...EAAOSwBPNXRdx1

    For the speed sensor I'm using one of these and getting the signal off the adapter block I made that couples to the hydraulic pump.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magnetic...nc&_stpos=3918

    I didn't pay those prices BTW. I stumbled on some "new old stock"

    Time will tell very shortly if I'm barking up the wrong tree with this stuff.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Today I finished the electric motor adapter plate to couple it to the electric driven hydraulic pump. I'm kinda thinking it would have just been a little easier to run the log lifter off the main pump. The reasons for not are mostly economics as I already had this electric driven pump and matching 3/8" hose and fittings. If I wanted to run it off the main pump I would need more fittings, another spool valve and probably a flow control valve so it wouldn't launch to log over to my neighbours!

    Anyway, it's done now. Attached are some pics.

    Pic 1 is thehydraulic pump unit showing the reservoir.
    Pic 2 is looking at the mating end of the pump unit where the motor drives
    Pic 3 is the adapter plate, screws and the mating shaft I made
    Pic 4 is the adapter plate mounted onto the pump (ignor the one odd screw. it's all I had in M6)
    Pic 5 is the electric motor end showing the bearing mount for the armature
    Pic 6 is the armature with the mating shaft I made
    Pic 7 is the armature (with shaft) housed and coupled to the pump
    Pic 8 is the motor body slide over
    Pic 9 is the pump and motor mounted in it's place underneath on the log splitter

    Initial testing shows it works OK. I need not worry about it launching a log, it's bordering on being a bit slow. But the battery is also low so will see when I have a fresh battery and the engine is running and alternator pumping juice into the battery.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    I also made an attempt to fix the spool valve, which has a crack through the inlet port.

    Here's a pic of the inlet port. Unfortunately, I used teflon tape when I initially made the connection and the pressure of the fluid has pushed some of the tape into the crack. I tried best I could to get it out but I had limited success. This may have a bearing on the success of my repair.

    I have since cleaned the port with acetone and used a wicking penetrating high strength retaining fluid, similar to that suggested by Shed. I will give it 24 hours to cure and see how it goes. I don't hold much hope but for $10 it was worth a try.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,105

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    If that doesn't work, you might be able to braze or weld it. Cracked hydraulic valve

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Now this what I call a splitter, V8 Cat powered!!!!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3ERkzvsLBM
    another 3/4 hour later I am back reading this post

    and great work Simon

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

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    Hi Simon,

    Is this a crack as well ?

    91145103c2ac919eab726bde7dd4c0c3.jpg
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #68
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hmmm, not sure. Maybe?

    I was thinking that maybe the crack in the thread is a result of me being too heavy handed when tightening the connections but if that is also a crack then it may be a fault in the casting. Tomorrow I'll re-test to see if it still leaks. The sealant will have cured for 24 hours by then. If it works then I'll never get the chance to look at that other suspected crack.

    This spool valve is a Prince WLS800. Some Prince stuff is made in the US but I think these are made in China.

    On a side note, today I also fixed up and wired in the alternator. The original alternator was a POS so I scored a reconditioned alternator from a 94 camry for next to nothing. The mounting was completely different so it required some "artistic license" to mount it. I even managed to keep the original fan belt! After connecting up the 2 wires from the internal voltage regulator to the lamp and voltage sense, I measured the output at 14.3V Happy with that!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    2,129

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    Simon I think that you and I have a different definition of a hairline crack, that looks more like the Suez Canal

    No I dont want pictures I clicked that instead of the cheesy grin.

    I reckon that if the loctite does work it probably wont for long.

    You have 3 uncracked threads at the end, I think you could try a parallel thread fitting to get down to those threads and use a 264 or hydraulic loctite, http://www.loctite-success.com.au/co...0compounds.pdf

    One of the problems here is that using the tapered fitting is that it forces the crack to open, even a parallel fitting might do the same, if so rather than trying to weld it you could machine the surface around the port and fit a ring over this with a interference fit to support it when tightened. (nipped up, no real need to tighten).

  10. #70
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    I wondered why I had a "picture please " notification. You have fat fingers!

    Anyway, yea OK so it's not a small crack. Yes I agree that a tapered thread is problematic by the nature it wants to open up the crack further. If it was the last spool valve in the world, I may be inclined to try weld it with either bronze or arc, but I have never tried either and I have never welded CI before anyway.

    I'll find out hopefully when I get home if my cheerful and cheap method has worked. If not I think I will just order a new valve.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

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    Well that crack is in a hard spot to repair. If the loctite doesn't work i would try silver soldering the crack. the silver solder should wick in and seal the crack up, then reinstall the fitting with hydraulic loctite without over tightening (will check the specs at work). I though you might have been able to bore out and sleeve the port, but it wont work with that casting.

  12. #72
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    I fired up the splitter again tonight. It still leaks albeit nowhere near as much as before. So the verdict is a fail.

    I was thinking that bronze welding may do it but i think that technique needs alot of heat. Silver may be the go.

    Either way ive ordered another valve. I may still attempt a repair on this one at a later stage but for now i really need this thing running. Ive got a heap of wood that needs to be split and stacked so it can dry out over this spring/summer.

    Cheers.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #73
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    So i ordered a new valve from a different supplier. Just accepted it.

    Out of interest i looked up my purchase history to see when i bought the damaged splitter valve. It was july 2016.

    So i thought what the heck, ill message the seller and explain my circumstances about building this project and only finding out now that the valve has a crack. Sent them the same photos i put up here.

    Blow me down. They replied within hours advising that they will send me a replacement!

    I bought it 2 years ago!

    Thats amazing customer service.

    Now ive bought a valve for no reason!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Sydney
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    283

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    So now you have a spare valve. That guarantees that the valve in the machine will never give any problems again.

    Cheers
    Roger

  15. #75
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Yea, I really like your logic. You're most likely correct!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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